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Thread: powering m1-atx dc via power outlet (USA 110V AC)

  1. #1
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    powering m1-atx dc via power outlet (USA 110V AC)

    Hey guys... I just need some confirmation that my reasoning here is sound before i go out and blow my M1...

    my local radio shack has a AC-DC power convertor block thing that will dish out 12V 3.5A output from a 110V AC input...

    the end other than the one that plugs into the wall is ur red positive and black negative ends.

    If I wanted to hook up my M1-ATX to this (a temporary setup...i dont need a switch--just plug it in to turn it on and yank it out to hardoff), would i wire the ignition to the power wire on the M1 PSU side, and wire that now single wire to the red positive wire, and the ground to negative?

    by my calculations, P = I x V , so .... the 90W M1 / 12V = 7.5A

    That would mean i'm powering it with 3.5A instead of 7.5A, but .... according to the epia power simulator at mini-itx[dot]com, my setup of a C134 Travla case with 2.5"HDD and slim dvdrom will only suck up about 36W and 3.06A.

    Soo... the AC-DC power plug that's 3.5A / 12V is enough, right?

    On another approach altogether, i have a laptop power supply that delivers 20V and 3.5A as well.... since M1's are designed to take 6-24V, cant i use this too by splicing off the barrel plug and wiring it to the PSU? it would save the trouble of going to radio shack to get gouged on the prices...

  2. #2
    Constant Bitrate HoSS's Avatar
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    Yeah, that's pretty much correct (you really have to include the device efficiencies in the calculations, but its close)

    My M1-ATX takes about 2A normal running, peaking at 3.1 during boot & CD-ROM usage.

    You are not going to be overloading the AD/DC by a huge amount, so just keep an eye on the temperature until you are sure about it.
    Also make sure that it's rating is for 3.5A 100% (not peak short duration)

  3. #3
    Raw Wave rando's Avatar
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    A 12V/3.5A supply is marginal though it might work for light testing. The 20V supply is a bit stronger and should work. Just remember when operating from higher voltages, you have to derate the supply to 80W and a cooling fan is also suggested.

    BTW, the last time I was at target, I noticed they had a 12V/5A converter over in the automotive section. It was designed for running automotive gadgets in your house. In my Target, it was on the same shelf with the inverters and other power accessories. IIRC, it was like $20.

    UPDTATE: Here's the URL. It's actually 6A!
    http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html...sin=B0002ISQ5G

    Also, Mini-Box has these
    12V/9A - http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl/sc.8/ca...it.A/id.279/.f
    12V/5A - http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl/sc.8/ca...it.A/id.193/.f

  4. #4
    Low Bitrate gothate's Avatar
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    Did you try the Target converter? I just got my pc in and I'm anxious to get things set up. About to run to target and give this thing a try.

  5. #5
    Low Bitrate gothate's Avatar
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    Ah dammit, it's only the online Target. **** on that.

  6. #6
    Raw Wave rando's Avatar
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    Hmmm...I saw one in my local Target a few months back. The only way to know is to check. I haven't used the target unit but I have used the Mini-box 12V/5A brick with my M1-ATX. It works fine but of course you can't fully load it down.

  7. #7
    Low Bitrate gothate's Avatar
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    I just hooked up an old ATX power supply to it, seems to be working like a charm.

  8. #8
    Raw Wave rando's Avatar
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    Yep, that works too.

  9. #9
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    Looking to buy this Target power supply to run my M1-ATX powersupply in the house when I need to do work on the PC. I am going to get the 6A one that is referenced on the website. Do I just splice the end that looks like the lighter and ad a molex connector?

  10. #10
    Raw Wave rando's Avatar
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    How you hook it to your M1 is up to you. For your case, you'd build a cable that adapts the 'lighter' connector to whatever connector you use to supply power to your M1.

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