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Thread: uSDC problems in my NSX (with pix and video)

  1. #11
    Constant Bitrate strohmrs's Avatar
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    Zootjeff,

    Count me in as another user with the relay clicking problem. Finally had some time to hook my system up only to find I have the same problem. I am running with a 300W inverter and everything works fine bypassing the uSDC. My Dodge has a dual battery setup already.

    I have a question about the power on sense. I read in one area of your manual to connect it to 12V but in the chart that shows the min/max it lists 5.5V for max for a high on that signal. Which voltage should it be on and is a regular 1N4148 diode ok to use?
    Rick S.

    XP Pro SP2, Soyo P4RC350 MB, Nvidia FX5200, 320W PS, Inverter & uSDC20D, 2.4GHz CeleronD320, 512MB DDR, 30GB 3.5", Pioneer 106s Slot DVD, Linksys WMP54G WiFi, Lilliput 7" & 4" TFT LCD, Zippy EL610 Keyboard, Touchpad, Garmin GPS V

  2. #12
    Banned xdjxklusivex's Avatar
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    bad ground? ive got the same inverter and it works fine even survives crank!

    can someone explane to me what a uSDC is?

  3. #13
    FLAC
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    moahdib's Avatar
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    Hey Jeff...
    I don't think this is an inverter specific problem...
    I have upgraded my wiring, made sure all contacts are clean. Right now I am using a simple relay to turn on my laptop DC-DC power supply when ACC is applied.Only thing is that I have to press is the power button to fire it up and to hibernate, which is not a big deal.

    BUt here is what I found out...
    Turn on the car, uSDC starts clicking away, power on the uSDC stays on but lightly dims whenever it clicks. The connection to the power button to my laptop also seems to trip and keeps trying to turn it on and off. Sometimes, after maybe 2 minutes or so after clicking...it stops. But power is not applied to my PSU... I can tell cuz it doesn't charge my laptop batteries =(
    My PSU draws about 5-6A @ 12V when its charging.

    During the clicking, if I pull the PSU connected to the uSDC, then the clicking goes away. When i plug it back in sometimes it commences clicking again, sometimes it doesn't. It probably has to do with the initial current being applied to the uSDC in the begging that causes that.

    What do you want me to do? send it to you so you can check it out?
    04 Acura TL w/ core2duo 2ghz laptop w/ 1gb RAM on a docking station.

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  4. #14
    Constant Bitrate strohmrs's Avatar
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    uSDC = Micro ShutDown Controller.
    Rick S.

    XP Pro SP2, Soyo P4RC350 MB, Nvidia FX5200, 320W PS, Inverter & uSDC20D, 2.4GHz CeleronD320, 512MB DDR, 30GB 3.5", Pioneer 106s Slot DVD, Linksys WMP54G WiFi, Lilliput 7" & 4" TFT LCD, Zippy EL610 Keyboard, Touchpad, Garmin GPS V

  5. #15
    Constant Bitrate strohmrs's Avatar
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    Jeff,

    I tried taking the load of the inverter off of the uSDC by using the V OUT to power an external 30A relay and run the inverter off of that relay. Still getting the clicking of the 25A relay on the uSDC and continuous rebooting of the computer. It's getting too late for me to try anything else tonight.

    Maybe I'll try this tomorrow: How about leaving the inverter connected to the battery (always on) to leave the input caps in the inverter charged and use an external relay, with the coil powered by V OUT, to replace the inverters on/off switch?
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    Rick S.

    XP Pro SP2, Soyo P4RC350 MB, Nvidia FX5200, 320W PS, Inverter & uSDC20D, 2.4GHz CeleronD320, 512MB DDR, 30GB 3.5", Pioneer 106s Slot DVD, Linksys WMP54G WiFi, Lilliput 7" & 4" TFT LCD, Zippy EL610 Keyboard, Touchpad, Garmin GPS V

  6. #16
    Mo' Programming Mo' Problems
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    Sonicxtacy02's Avatar
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    The inverter isnt the problem at all. I've powered the computer straight to a house socket and the clicking still happens.... again ONLY when the car is actually running. I have a second 200 watt inverter i can test to be sure. No i'm not sure how much power my system is drawing but its just a epia 800 with one chip of ram and full size hard drive at this point. I shouldnt be pushing any limits. It just completely baffles me that it only happens when the car is running, thus pushing more current to the USDC. I wonder if using a 12v regulator on VIN would trick the unit into thinking the vehicle was ACC? All i know is that i've checked all points in the system and everything is powering steadily as it should... 13v+ into the unit and 12v out to the inverter, every time. The only variable is the condition that makes the relay click more than needed.

  7. #17
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by strohmrs
    Zootjeff,

    Count me in as another user with the relay clicking problem. Finally had some time to hook my system up only to find I have the same problem. I am running with a 300W inverter and everything works fine bypassing the uSDC. My Dodge has a dual battery setup already.

    I have a question about the power on sense. I read in one area of your manual to connect it to 12V but in the chart that shows the min/max it lists 5.5V for max for a high on that signal. Which voltage should it be on and is a regular 1N4148 diode ok to use?
    If you use a Diode, the 12 or the 5 will work. Because the diode is pointing AWAY from the unit, It never really sees any voltage. 5 is the safer bet.

    YOU CAN NOT USE 12 IF YOU DON"T HAVE A DIODE.

    Yes that diode will work great!

    -Jeff
    MPEGBOX - Plexiglass Computer
    www.mpegbox.com

  8. #18
    Maximum Bitrate phat_bastard's Avatar
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    Jeff -

    I'm at wit's end with this. I didn't want to rip you up on the forums, but since you've totally ignored my emails and requests to contact me in a private manner, you leave me with no choice. I want to return the two uSDCs I purchased from you for a refund. I'm tired of wasting my time messing around with them, and tired of reading this thread full of your excuses about why they don't work. I bought them to save me the time and effort of building my own, and evidently I made a mistake. Now be a good citizen and at least acknowledge my request, or I'll assume I've just been f__ked out of my $100, and leave it at that.
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  9. #19
    Mo' Programming Mo' Problems
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    Sonicxtacy02's Avatar
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    I'm almost right there with you. I've tried just about every configuration seen on this site and its still right back to the same problem. Yea the tank circuit and 7amp battery worked but hell i shouldnt need to do all that to simply get the computer to start and shut down at the turn of a key. EVERYTHING on this unit works fine EXCEPT the relay which would seem to me to be the easiest part. Power on ACC clicks it on, no power to ACC clicks it off. It should be that simple.. however its not. Everyone here knows that the car environment adds plenty of variables to how components function but with so many people here having the same or similar problems its about time it be addressed and the problem be solved.

  10. #20
    Constant Bitrate
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    I would also like to return mine for a refund. I have also tried contacting the Mp3car store via contact us form asking about a refund and I have sent an email directly asking for assistance for an RMA. I feel like that this is bad business preactices, I appreciate Jeff attempting to helpmein my thread under hardware thread but I didnt have any updates untill I found this thread. It appears that there is a issue with these controllers and there are quite a few of us that are not happy.

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