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Thread: 300W tiny PSU final feature requests collecting

  1. #1
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    300W tiny PSU final feature requests collecting

    this project is continuing abd aim to a 400W tiny one.

    to read the Q&A please jump to page4

    it is here:300W tiny PSU final feature requests collecting



    the brand new design of my 300W tiny PSU is going to be manufactored soon

    please post your feature requests here, to make it suitable to more users.

    1.up to the design, the output could be as follow.
    I know that the large the better, but the price(not the size) will be related to.
    12v main 12A? 15A? 18A? 20A?
    5v main 10A? 15A? 18A? 20A?
    3.3v main 10A? 15A? 18A? 20A?
    5v standby 1A? 2A? 3A?
    -5v 1A? 2A? 3A?
    -12v 1A? 2A? 3A?

    2.the shut down controller can be user upgradeable
    anlogal shut down controler
    digital shut down controler
    mutifunction/re-programmable digital shut down controler

    3.input range:
    8v to 18v ?
    8v to 24v?
    8v to 30v?
    what should the lowest input votage be?
    6v to 10v (notice, at 6V/300w, the input current would be over 50A!)

    4.cooling fan:
    according to the design, it could be fanless under 200w at 45 degree C condition.
    if someone want to mount PSU near the engine.....

    5.technologe used on this PSU:
    current share
    smart boost
    soft start
    full indepandent channels for all output votage
    high quality import parts even the powdercores
    PWM control
    protections
    ATX standar logic
    re-programmable
    master/slave
    remote control

    6.should be decided:
    the INPUT wrong wire protection.
    as the input currency could up to 30A or more at some conditions
    if added, it will low down the efficency
    if not, wrong connectting + and - will burn the PSU....

  2. #2
    Variable Bitrate
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    Can you make Quantum Dilithium crystal injectors an option?

  3. #3
    Raw Wave RoyN's Avatar
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    Hey dBTV!

    Cool to see your already ready!!!!

    Here are my ideas:

    15A+ on 12v line since many ATX mobos need a lot of 12v juice.
    5v also on high priority since many people use 5v laptop HDs, etc, usb devices, etc,etc
    Fan option... I live in brazil, the psu will get much hotter than 45deg MANY times a week... (yes, the car in the sun for 3 hours will make it veryyy hot)
    making input voltage to 18v should be fine I think... although maybe 8v to 20v is better for a bit more flexibility... can you make it 6v to 20? I think it is better I have problems sometimes wqith the opus surviving crank...

    I cant wait... I hope I can have a prototype when u start selling since I'm not from the us!
    Roy

    2005 Range Rover 4.4
    Any ideas for putting a PC in this? :)

  4. #4
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    Will it all be regualted?

  5. #5
    FLAC evandude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by custardbomb
    Will it all be regualted?
    of course.
    But don't take it from me! here's a quote from a real, live newbie:
    Quote Originally Posted by Viscouse
    I am learning buttloads just by searching on this forum. I've learned 2 big things so far: 1-it's been done before, and 2-if it hasn't, there is a way to do it.
    eegeek.net

  6. #6
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    1) As much as possible on the 12V rail, please! Let's make this something that people who are bent on using an Athlon64 CPU will run out and buy!

    2) Digital? Dunno, I'll let the more experienced folks weigh in....

    3) 8v-18v should be fine for a car with a properly operating electrical system.

    4) A temperature-controlled fan could be a nice addition, depending on the increase in cost/complexity.

    5) Same as #2....

    6) If it'll affect the efficiency, I say leave it off - I think most of us attempting something like this know to double check power/ground cables before connecting them to equipment.

  7. #7
    Raw Wave RoyN's Avatar
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    Yeah, priority on 12v and 5v... is there anyway of making it balance a certain amount of output between the 2 voltages? like if I use a P4, then my requirement for 12v will be high, my 5v requirement probably not much... if I use an embedded board I might need only 5v and 3v, and not even want the 12v, so if it could "direct" more juice as needed that would be amazing... but I guess that would be practically impossible wouldnt it?
    Roy

    2005 Range Rover 4.4
    Any ideas for putting a PC in this? :)

  8. #8
    It ain't easy being a green moderator meddler's Avatar
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    IMO.

    these would be minimums

    12V - 15A
    5V - 20A
    3.3V - 10A
    5VSB - 1A
    -5V 1A (0.5A should be enough)
    -12V 1A (0.7A should be enough)

    Input voltage: 7V - 16V (must survive crank. Most cars, even a diesel, shouldn't go lower than 7V unless the battery is stuffed)

    SDC should be programmable. Not a real problem if it's digital or analogue. As long as it works I have a lot of ideas for an SDC, pm sent.

    Fan is a must. But if you don't need it you could just disconnect it.

    Overcurrent and reverse polarity should be mandatory in the design.
    Never let the truth get in the way of a good story

  9. #9
    My Village Called 0l33l's Avatar
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    No clue about the output amprages.

    Input should be from 8v-18v.
    SDC should be digital, as that would be easier to reflash. Also it should have a few relays, so you could delay powering on your monitor (like after the POST is though), and also to act as a trigger for your amp.

    Fan... I don't really care. I'm sticking mine in the trunk
    Translation: yes.

    And you should give the ability to not power USB devices when car is off (not in ATX spec, but feature in opuses except 150w).

  10. #10
    FLAC evandude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by meddler
    SDC should be programmable. Not a real problem if it's digital or analogue. As long as it works I have a lot of ideas for an SDC, pm sent.
    Meddler, I'm doing the programmable SDC for this thing, so PM your ideas to me

    Or, for that matter, post them here, as this is a feature request thread
    But don't take it from me! here's a quote from a real, live newbie:
    Quote Originally Posted by Viscouse
    I am learning buttloads just by searching on this forum. I've learned 2 big things so far: 1-it's been done before, and 2-if it hasn't, there is a way to do it.
    eegeek.net

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