Does anyone have experience with either of these power supplies? I'm trying to decide with PS to go with, however, all I have to go with right now are the specs on each. I'm hoping to be able to power an In-Dash motorized LCD, Carputer (Pentium M mini-ITX), and have one extra power source to power a USB2.0 hub.
If you have experience with either of these, maybe you can post some pros and cons that you have come across.
Thanks in advance.
- 150 Watt output
- Wide input voltage
- Load dump protected
- High efficiency (extended battery life)
- Simple to install
- Built in auto shutdown
- Delayed shutdown timer
- On/Off power switch input
Input 12V 24V
Normal operating voltage: 7V to 18V DC 15V to 32V DC
Low battery shutdown voltage: 10.6V ± 0.25V 21.2V ± 0.25V
Low battery de-bounce time: 10sec 10sec
Output 150W Ripple Regulation
+3.3V 10Amax, 13A pk 50mv p-p max 2%
+5V 10A max, 13A pk 50mv p-p max 2%
+12V 5A max, 6.5A pk 50 mv p-p max 2%
-12V 0.5A max, 1.2A pk 150mv p-p max 10%
5V standby 1A max, 1.2A pk 50mv p-p max 2%
Power supplies overall efficiency: >90% at optimum loads
Shut Down Delay Time: 10sec. (Default), 20min, 40min or 60min (set by Jumper)
Wake on interrupt time: 20 minutes (while ignition is off)
Ignition or ON/OFF input current: <5 mA
MTBF: 250,000 hrs min.
Cooling: Forced air or thermal coupling to heat sink for loads above 90W
Operating temperature: -20°C to 65°C
Input fuse: 15A ATO (automotive blade fuse)
-140 Watt Dual Output Regulator
-Jumper selectable main output of +18/+19/+20V
-Jumper selectable secondary output of +12V/+13.5V or +5V
-Optional 3rd output using the CNX-P5V +5v/15 watt regulator.
-Survives Engine Cranking under full load over entire temperature range
-Includes sophisticated Startup/Shutdown Controller
-Includes sturdy aluminum chassis with variable speed fan suitable for car environment
-Field upgradable flash microprocessor
-Low battery monitor prevents drained battery, even during Standy/Sleep
-"Anti Thump" delayed remote control for audio amplifiers
-Remote "Pulse Start" from wireless device or car alarm/remote start system
-Over current protection on both outputs with graceful forced shutdown of main output
-Powers both your CarPC/Mac AND your screen or USB devices
-Compatible with Mac mini including startup/shutdown and sleep mode
-Compatible with Pentium P4-based systems such as Travla C158-120, Sumicom S630, or Xenarc SC8
-Full, safe support for Windows Standby mode including auto shutdown if PC fails to shutdown
-Over voltage surge suppression on battery input for protection of harsh automotive environment
-User replaceable fuse on battery input to protect your car from internal short circuits
-Very compact design measuring 4.6" x 3.25" x 1.75" (L x W x H) or 117mm x 83mm x 45mm.
StrataG, thanks for pointing that out, I totally missed that "Regulator" part. I guess I need to now compare the two different setups.
If I go with the Carnetix, I can use the existing power supply that comes with whatever mini-ITX case I purchase. Same goes for the in-dash LCD screen since that also only requires the 12V, GND and IGN for power which the carnetix can provide from the battery.
That should be a pros then, the fact that if you purchase a case, you don't have to purchase another power supply with all the startup/shutdown, crank protection, etc. features.
Anything else we should consider?
Make sure that whatever case you choose can be supported by the 1900. You need to look at the input voltage and current draw of the case's PSU. If it is has 18,19, or 20V as the input voltage and the current draw (amps) is less than or equal to what the 1900 provides, then you should be good to go. If you plan on using a USB hub or external drive, you may also want to get a 5V regulator, if you plan on using the secondary output as 12V for the screens.Originally Posted by lqvan
I have the Carnetix and I've been super happy with it. If you go with the additional 5V regulator, you'll have all the different power voltages you need, all on separate wires. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Opus looks like it doesn't support 5V (8-19V only). I don't know what all the hype about the Opus is, just browse through the Power Supplies forum and you'll see how many people are having problems with it. Rarely do you ever see any problems with Carnetix, and when there is, there's an actual person (the designer himself) who will help you out with it. (Yes, there are many more Opuses out there, hence, more problems, but it seems disproportionate). Heck, there's even an FAQ on "How to fix your Opus".