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Thread: M1-atx Problem (and yes I did a search)

  1. #1
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    M1-atx Problem (and yes I did a search)

    Hey guys,

    Maybe someone can help me.

    Background:
    I have an ampie case with a m-12000 80gb laptop drive and an m1-atx. I ran a 4gauge wire from the battery to the trunk, in the trunk I have a 4 to 8 guage distro block (so I can power the 4 channel amp and the computer). Before you ask they are each on there own fuse and the run of 8 gauge wire is only 2 foot long to each. The Amp is mounted 4 feet (aprox) from the carputer to prevent any noise problems. The amp is only 50X4 rms so I am positive that I am not pulling too much juice on the 90W m1-atx and the 200W amp. I know that 200 is the average but the amp really has nothing to do with the problem, i just figured it would be easy to list everything so that someone didn't come back and say did you try removing the amp (which I did anyway). The carputer is mounted on the back of the seat.

    The problem:
    While testing and setting everything up the carputer was mounted on the back of the seat but the seat was always folded down so I can get to the wires and manually restart the computer if needed. It worked great, the accessory wire would start and stop the computer (hibernate). But once I started driving around with the seat in the normal position everything started to get screwed up. The first time I start the car it would start up and boot, then I would shut the car off and do whatever, and when I came back out the car the fans for the carputer are still running. I turn the car back on and look at the screen and it is black I must admit that I only have an rca input on the screen I am using right now. So there may be more information on the screen but I can not see it. I will have the real screen in as soon as I get time to drill out the stripped screw in the factory head unit. But anyway at this point the machine will not start or stop. If I open the seat like when I was testing and do a hard reboot the machine will start working again as soon as I start the car. And will work for as many cycles as I like as long as I dont close the seat. I dont think it is a wiring problem since nothing gets touched (plugged back in) when I open the seat, and I dont think that it would be something pulling on the wires since I dont have them all in wire ties yet (waiting till everything is run and working).

    Any ideas welcome...

    Thanks
    -Bad

  2. #2
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    What mode have you set your M1-ATX in (the jumper setting)?

    And, what you've meant with 'the seat' is the car seat? I assume that you have a pickup truck and you have installed the carputer behind the car seat in the driver/passenger compartment?
    EPIA Nehemiah M10k, M1-ATX, 20GB 4200 RPM 2.5", 256MB RAM, Win XP Home, Gyration RF Keyboard & Mouse, Zoltrix Nightingale Optical 4.1 PCI Sound Card, Lilliput 619GL-70NP, XM-PCR w/ optical upgrade, Garmin GPS-25LVS, Microsoft MN-710 USB Wireless NIC

  3. #3
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    A wiring diagram for your whole setup would also help.
    EPIA Nehemiah M10k, M1-ATX, 20GB 4200 RPM 2.5", 256MB RAM, Win XP Home, Gyration RF Keyboard & Mouse, Zoltrix Nightingale Optical 4.1 PCI Sound Card, Lilliput 619GL-70NP, XM-PCR w/ optical upgrade, Garmin GPS-25LVS, Microsoft MN-710 USB Wireless NIC

  4. #4
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    I can't remember which pin setting I picked but it is the one that gives the signal and waits 30 seconds for the machine to shutdown then kills total power after 2 hours.

    As for the seat, yes the car see but not a truck. I have an 2002 accord ex. The seat is the rear drivers side seat and when it is in the upright position the carputer is in the trunk. As for a wiring diagram...Dont really have one right now and I am at work so I dont have anywhere to post it. But it is simple. 4g from battery to distro block, that splits to 2 fuses and 1 8g goes to the amp, the other 8g to the carputer. They both share a comman ground distro block. I am not using the 4ch amp to drive sound from the carputer yet (since the factory headunit is still installed I have that driving the amp. Carputer is on a tapedeck interface to the head unit for basic sound until I finish wiring things. They are both (amp/carputer) sharing a signal cable for the accessory on signal, and I dont really think it is a wiring issue since the carputer works great when the seat is down (and none of the wires are being pinched when it is up). Only thing I can think of so far is that heat is building up in the top of the case and m1-atx is not working right because of the temp. Since the ampie case is mounted vertically with the motherboard backplace facing down the m1-atx should be at the highest point in the case (and I think heat still rises been a long time since high school chem). I am going to try turning the case on its side and see if that helps, but if anyone has any other ideas I am open to try. Sorry again about not being able to post the drawing.

  5. #5
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    And how are the other things wired: monitor, USB devices (if any), etc.?

    The fans you've mentioned, are they powered through the motherboard, relay, or...?
    EPIA Nehemiah M10k, M1-ATX, 20GB 4200 RPM 2.5", 256MB RAM, Win XP Home, Gyration RF Keyboard & Mouse, Zoltrix Nightingale Optical 4.1 PCI Sound Card, Lilliput 619GL-70NP, XM-PCR w/ optical upgrade, Garmin GPS-25LVS, Microsoft MN-710 USB Wireless NIC

  6. #6
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    wires are not run yet. I have the usb for the gps just laying in the back window and the mouse run up to the front of the car. As for the fans it is just the case from the ampie case and it is on the motherboard.

    Thanks
    Bad

  7. #7
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    Check for loose wires/connectors. Probably as you put the seat back to its upright position, some wires/connectors get loose or touch each other.

    With the ignition off, use a multimeter to measure voltage of the accessory (ignition) connection with the seat on the upright position. Any voltage there?
    EPIA Nehemiah M10k, M1-ATX, 20GB 4200 RPM 2.5", 256MB RAM, Win XP Home, Gyration RF Keyboard & Mouse, Zoltrix Nightingale Optical 4.1 PCI Sound Card, Lilliput 619GL-70NP, XM-PCR w/ optical upgrade, Garmin GPS-25LVS, Microsoft MN-710 USB Wireless NIC

  8. #8
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    I know that the accessory wire is not hot when the car is off, I checked that with a multimeter yesterday. Next thing to try is turnning the case sideways so to see if that solves the problem.
    thanks
    I will keep you all posted (and as always any other ideas are welcome.

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