nOOb with power problems..sorry for the long post

**hank_kls65** · 02-15-2006, 10:17 PM

Here is the scene.
I am setting up my carputer in my basement working in it for the better part of 3 months, getting ready for installation in my Nissan Titan. It had been running great with RR front end

. Got everything together and working, just waiting on some warm weather here in Northern PA to do the install when my system won’t boot, not even a POST or any output to VGA

. After removing everthing but the processor and cpu cooler, it still would not POST, and not even a memory error beep. I even tried resetting the bios with the onboard jumper. I called the vendor and was able to RMA the board, processor, memory, and cpu cooler, back to them (they have been great!). They confirmed to me it was completely dead and sent me a new board.

I received the replacement board and installed it. It booted up fine and was working for about 4 hours then bam, the same problem. Supplier was nice enough to take this one back but said it sounded like I was under powering the mb and it was causing damage to the point the system would not POST, it even wiped out the BIOS. I had never heard of that but it got me to thinking. I am to afraid to install the board when I get it back

.

I have the following setup.

Commell LV-672 w/3Ghz 775 processor, 1GB RAM
Panasonic slimline DVD-ROM
Seagate Barracuda 200GB Serial ATA
DSATX 220W PSU
Lilliput 7” 629
Hauppauge WinTV-FM
BU-353 GPS
Linksys USB WiFi
Virtually Indestructible Keyboard
MS Mouse
Dynatron 1U CPU Cooler

I understand the DSATX has 144w on 12v rail, 60w on 5v, and 33w on 3.3.

I figure I am drawing the following on the DSATX

-Commell w/Processor, Memory is drawing at most 120w at 12v. This is a best guess because the manual shows a 2.8Ghz with 512 ram@90w and a 3.6Ghz with 2Gb ram@144w. I figure (swag) I am some where in the middle that how I got 120w. Could be way off and that may be my problem.
-CPU Cooler Dynatron website 6w@12v.
-Barracuda drive drawing 7w@12v and 3w@5v found from the cover of the drive 12v@.56a at 5v@.48a.
-Panasonic DVD-Rom drawing 9w found again from the cover showing 5v@1.65@.
-Lilliput drawing 8w@12v.
-The usb devices all 5w each on 5v total 25w. Hauppage, BU-353, WiFi, Keyboard, Mouse.

I figure the totals to be 141w on the 12v rail and 37w on the 5v rail. I am not quite sure what would be on the 3.3v rail. I think I am within the capabilities of the DSATX but maybe I am missing something.

To power this I have an extra battery in the basement and a automobile charger 2-10 amps hooked up. I have short 12guage cables from the battery to the DSATX.

If the DSATX won’t handle this, I guess I will go to a inverter hooked to an atx psu setup. Not what I want to do but if I want to run the 3ghz machine, I am not sure there is another answer.

**Bugbyte** · 02-15-2006, 11:00 PM

Sounds like you are running very close to the limit on your 12 volt rail. If your guess is off by just a couple of watts, you will be over. Consider that some of those components may draw more juice on startup and that could be the issue there.

Do you have adequate cabling in the car? 12 gauge sounds too thin to me. Most people use 6 or 4 or less for higher power setups. Remember that there is resistance over the longer lengths of wire that translate into voltage drop.

You're sure it is getting cooled adquately?

I won't bother to tell you that 3 ghz is overkill for a car PC.

**hank_kls65** · 02-16-2006, 06:40 AM

Thanks for the quick reply and ideas.

Originally Posted by Bugbyte

Sounds like you are running very close to the limit on your 12 volt rail. If your guess is off by just a couple of watts, you will be over. Consider that some of those components may draw more juice on startup and that could be the issue there.

I was thinking the same thing. Maybe I can back the Lilliput out, and go with an externally powered USB hub.

Originally Posted by Bugbyte

Do you have adequate cabling in the car? 12 gauge sounds too thin to me. Most people use 6 or 4 or less for higher power setups. Remember that there is resistance over the longer lengths of wire that translate into voltage drop. You're sure it is getting cooled adquately?

It's just on my bench with about 2ft of wire between the battery and the psu. I will take your advice and wire it up with the 6 or 4 guage wire on the bench when I get it back and when I move it to the truck. The cooling is fine. I am using MBM5 to monitor the temps.

Originally Posted by Bugbyte

I won't bother to tell you that 3 ghz is overkill for a car PC.

I won't bother reading that, but when I saw the spec's on the LV-672 I had to build one! I am definitely out of control with this carputer.

**Goofus** · 02-16-2006, 06:38 PM

Post some pics. I'd like to see another Titan install for ideas.

**hank_kls65** · 02-17-2006, 07:26 AM

My install in not quite done yet. As soon as I get by mb back I am going to move the lilliput, cooling fans, and external powered usb off my psu to an isolated circuit controlled by the psu but drawing power directly from the battery. I plan on having it supply both 5v and 12v based on some circuit diagrams found here. After I run it on my bench I will install it and post some pictures.

I bought the Titan Nav Bezel and my install looks like what Troutspinner did over at the titantalk forum I wish I could say they were my ideas, but I just stole them. This is a link to his post. http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tita...t=troutspinner His setup looked awsome to me and I have got to give him all the credit.

I have my lilliput mounted in the Nav Bezel sitting in my basement and I am just waiting until I get my power problem fixed then I will be ready to go. It will be nice to actually see my iGuidance map moving for a change. I am tired of looking at my iGuidance map sitting in my basement!

**DarquePervert** · 02-17-2006, 08:00 AM

Originally Posted by Goofus

Post some pics. I'd like to see another Titan install for ideas.

This, ladies and gentlemen, is what we call a threadcrap.

The guy is asking questions about how to resolve a power issue. It's not the place to ask for installation photos.
Geez. Show some respect.

This would be like me asking if I can borrow your chainsaw while you're getting advice about what to do about your cheating wife. It's inappropriate time and place, man.

**stepir** · 02-17-2006, 09:57 AM

Hi

may I share with you my experience with a similar config?

I use a commel 672 too (p4@3Ghz)
1 GB ram
300GB SATA Disk
7 USB devices

I really wanted a powerfull pc cause I don't like the idea of spending a lot of money for a 1Ghz celeron-like cpu (I mean all via embedded solutions).

Right now I have it working and I'm glad as I can use any winamp visualization I want or any kind of application without any performance problem. Even without an AGP video card the pc is really really fast.

Now the problem of powering it. I went to an inverter solution. Not a pure sine wave a normal cheap inverter. Had no sound problems just I used some filters to eliminate any ground loop.

The startup and shutdown process of everything (pc, monitor, psu and inverter) is driven by this "cheap" controller:

http://www.mp3car.com/store/product_...products_id=65

it is awesome, works perfetcly, highly customizable as an Mx-ATX or an Opus and the support offered by them is superb. They helped me alot with all the problems I had even with suggestion not related with their own product (grounding, choosing of the inverter, general suggestion about carpc).

You can buy it directly also from them here:
http://carpc.kyferez.com/

It's not expensive if you consider the price of an Mx-Atx or an Opus and the fact that you can use a normal PC psu. You have to buy an inverter but you can find it for cheap prices everywhere. Just be carefull of buying one with more power than what you plan because inverter manufacturer use to lie about the power wattage of them. I will end using a 1000W inverter.

Hope to helped you

**hank_kls65** · 02-17-2006, 07:49 PM

stepir,

Thanks for the tip. I've read the Installation Manual and Config Manual and think I might go that route.

Probably should have done that from day one. I know the guy's who have been RMA'ing my board back to me would have appreciated it. I guess that is why I still need to capitalize the OO's in nOOb.

**Goofus** · 02-20-2006, 08:43 AM

This, ladies and gentlemen, is what we call a threadcrap.

Yeah, sorry about that. I got excited seeing a fellow Titan owner. Wouldn't it be more of a threadjack though?

**DarquePervert** · 02-20-2006, 09:20 AM

Originally Posted by Goofus

Yeah, sorry about that. I got excited seeing a fellow Titan owner. Wouldn't it be more of a threadjack though?

Is there really a difference?

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nOOb with power problems..sorry for the long post

Good ideas

Titan install

Thanks for sharing the knowledge

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