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Thread: I want to install a switch

  1. #11
    Constant Bitrate 01black_ac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxxell
    You realize that setting this switch to off wont cut the power to the Opus itself. If you are worried about battery drain, cutting power to the IGN wont do it. I have 2 switches in my car. One is up front and easy to reach which cuts the IGN line so I can take short trips without booting up. The other is more hidden and only gets used to completely kill power to the carputer. I flip that only when the system locks up and the Opus cant shut it down or when leaving town for a while and dont want the carputer trickle-draining my battery.
    maxxell, can you elaborate a bit on the exact configuration of the two switches (types of switch, location in the circuit, etc)

    I thought the point of a relay is for the circuit to be open until the ignition is turned on, and then the circuit gets closed and sends the 12V signal to the computer PSU (provided the switch is also set to ON). If the ignition is turned on but the switch is turned OFF, the relay will still close the circuit to the computer, but the switch being set to OFF will keep the computer from powering up or drawing off the battery... no..?

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  2. #12
    Variable Bitrate
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    Switch #1: Between battery & IGN line on Opus. When on, the opus acts as normal. It turns on and off based on the position of the key. When the switch is off, the Opus never gets the signal from the car that the key is on so it never sends the signal to the computer to boot up. [When the opus gets power on the IGN line, it just simulates pushing the power button on the motherboard, and pushes it again to shut down]

    Switch #2: Between the battery and the 12v line on the Opus. This kills the line carrying all the work-load electricity to the Opus. Sometimes something locks up so that pressing the power button wont work. THat's when you need to do a hard reboot. When I flip that switch, it's the same as pulling the power plug from the back of the computer. It's a last resort, but since you cant hold the power button down to do a hard reboot, it's come in hand a few times. I also flip that switch when leaving town for a while. I usually leave the computer in standby, but when leaving town for more than 5 or 6 days, I do a full shut-down and kill that switch. A bunch of my USB devices dont fully turn off when the computer does. For more info on that, do a search for the Epia USB issues.
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  3. #13
    Variable Bitrate ramy_zohair's Avatar
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    if you have the switch on the IGN line, you never kill the power to your powersupply, (this power is always supplied through the 12V line (you have 3 line to the PSU: 12V, ground & IGN) IGN controls the behaviour (startup/shutdown) of the computer. If you want to totally cut the power , you will need a switch on the line between your battery & the PSU.

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  4. #14
    MySQL Error scott_fx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01black_ac
    Thanks, that does help to make it more clear. I have a follow-up question... If I use an SPST switch, does it matter if the relay between the battery and the ignition switch is SPST or SPDT? I've found several relays in both configurations, and don't know which to use with an SPST switch.

    If an SPDT relay is okay, I'm considering this pair:
    http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...VE_RELAY_.html
    and
    http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...VE_RELAY_.html


    Here are some pretty nice SPST switches which I've been looking at:

    http://www.frozencpu.com/scan/se=Ele...nu_search.html

    And this one specifically:

    http://www.frozencpu.com/ele-138.html?id=bckv3xZy

    Might be nice to mount it inside a lockable console, or even somewhere on the dash, depending on how bright the LED actually is.

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    that toggle switch is an eyesore in my opinion, not stealth and fake carbon fiber is lame.

    here is a solution for you though. how good are you at soldering? you can get a momentary switch (like one of those vandal resistant ones on frozencpu. then look up the schematics for "combination lock ic" set up the ic's so that one push of the switch will give power to the relay that is controling the power on, then two pushes will disconnect power completely, and three pushes will put it back to auto. (or some variation of that)

    You may need to wire up 3 seperate combo lock ic's but it'ld be the cleanest install. you could even make it completely stealth and use a q-touch ic to make a touch sensative momentary switch.
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  5. #15
    Variable Bitrate ramy_zohair's Avatar
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    Why do you keep talkin about relays. they are different than switches. Relays are "automatic" switches. the whole point of using a switch is to manually overwrite what your PSU is automatically doing.
    these are examples of SPDT switches. They have 4 terminals and can be set in 3 positions (left, center & right).




    so i don't get the point of you using a relay (your PSU already uses one, taking IGN as a input)

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  6. #16
    Constant Bitrate 01black_ac's Avatar
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    Okay, you're right, it's probably not necessary to use both a relay and a manual switch. I was originally planning to use only a relay, without a manual switch, but then I decided it might be good to be able to override the computer for short trips to the store or whatever, when it doesn't make sense to have the system boot up.

    So here's what I have, and what I need to figure out:

    1. 12V car battery
    2. 12V ON tap under the dashboard
    3. 12V ACC ON tap under the dashboard
    4. 12V CONSTANT tap under the dashboard

    4. Computer PSU in the trunk (needs to be powered)
    5. LCD touchscreen in dash (needs to be powered from a regulated source, but not a bad idea to be powered from a source other than the computer PSU, since every Amp off of that supply is valuable. But at the same time, having power to the screen if the computer is manually turned OFF via a switch doesn't make sense, so maybe powering the screen from the PSU is the best way to go?).

    I'll be the first to admit, my knowledge of electronics is not as developed as my knowledge of computers and hardware, so any help with the best way to wire this together would be very much appreciated.

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  7. #17
    The Last Good Gremlin GizmoQ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ramy_zohair
    here is the best setup using a SPDT switch

    in 1) the power is switched according to the IGN line (and so startup/shutdown controller)
    in 2) the PC will always remain off, even if you move your key to IGN position
    in 3) the PC will remain always on, even if you pull your keys out, as the IGN is simulated by a +12V line.

    hope this helps
    Isn't that what I said???

    Here's what mine looks like. It's installed in the center console just below the joystick. It's just a simple three-way toggle SPDT.

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  8. #18
    Variable Bitrate ramy_zohair's Avatar
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    Yes, i think 2 heads are better than one
    nice switch by the way.

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  9. #19
    Low Bitrate NoTicketsPlease's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GizmoQ
    Isn't that what I said???

    Here's what mine looks like. It's installed in the center console just below the joystick. It's just a simple three-way toggle SPDT.


    Where did you get that switch?
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  10. #20
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    This:
    http://www.mp3car.com/store/product_...products_id=65
    http://carpc.kyferez.com/Products/products.php?id=1

    let you connect also a normal switch to the power controller to bypass the timings for startup and shutdown.

    Anyway you could just increase the shutdown timeout to avoid the problem.

    BTW

    I toke the ACC +12v instead from the car key from the internal top light of the car. I discovered that:
    - it goes to 12V as soon as open the doors with the remote; the time required to reach the car and turn it on is enough to boot the pc so I don't have to use hibernate or standby
    - it goes to 0 only when I close the car's doors with remote
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