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you can have them sperately or one heat sink for all BUT
IMP WHEN USING ONE HEATSINK FOR ALL THE MBR745 HAS TO BE ISOLATED MEANING THE MBR745 CHIPS SHOULD NOT TOUCH THE HEATSINK DIRECTLY PUT A SLICA PAKING IN BETWEEN.
Mastero
does the heatsink have to individually mounted to the max787/max788/mbr740 or can it just be one big block of aluminum? if it can be done what is the likelyhood of it causing a short?
you can have them sperately or one heat sink for all BUT
IMP WHEN USING ONE HEATSINK FOR ALL THE MBR745 HAS TO BE ISOLATED MEANING THE MBR745 CHIPS SHOULD NOT TOUCH THE HEATSINK DIRECTLY PUT A SLICA PAKING IN BETWEEN.
Mastero
Player: Pentium 166MMX, Amptron 598LMR MB w/onboard Sound, Video, LAN, 10.2 Gig Fujitsu Laptop HD, Arise 865 DC-DC Converter, Lexan Case, Custom Software w/Voice Interface, MS Access Based Playlists
Car: 1986 Mazda RX-7 Turbo (highly modded), 1978 RX-7 Beater (Dead, parting out), 2001 Honda Insight
"If one more body-kitted, cut-spring-lowered, farty-exhausted Civic revs on me at an intersection, I swear I'm going to get out of my car and cram their ridiculous double-decker aluminium wing firmly up their rump."
Ypou don't need heatsink 'goo' you can use the silicon heat transfer things..also, its better to use metal screws with the insulator things..
Whats the point of using insulating mateial between the two parts if you are going to use metal screws anyway?????????
Kinda defeats the purpose doesnt it?
Yes, you absolutely do need goo if you use the silicon or mica insulators. They are designed to insulate electrically, and don't do a very good job of transferring heat. The reason goo works is because it fills in all the pors that the the silicon/mica insulator does not. This is the same reason I always remove the stock insulators/transfer pads from CPU heatsinks and replace them with goo.Ypou don't need heatsink 'goo' you can use the silicon heat transfer things.. also, its better to use metal screws with the insulator things..
Metal screws are better, but plastic ones will suffice fine if you use goo.
The metal screws come with plastic grommits that insulate.Whats the point of using insulating mateial between the two parts if you are going to use metal screws anyway?????????
Player: Pentium 166MMX, Amptron 598LMR MB w/onboard Sound, Video, LAN, 10.2 Gig Fujitsu Laptop HD, Arise 865 DC-DC Converter, Lexan Case, Custom Software w/Voice Interface, MS Access Based Playlists
Car: 1986 Mazda RX-7 Turbo (highly modded), 1978 RX-7 Beater (Dead, parting out), 2001 Honda Insight
"If one more body-kitted, cut-spring-lowered, farty-exhausted Civic revs on me at an intersection, I swear I'm going to get out of my car and cram their ridiculous double-decker aluminium wing firmly up their rump."
This whole thing is not a big deal,the best thing to do is to build a heat sink out of one big piece of aluminum.The board needs to be supported anyway,so use a piece thick enough to hold a screw from the bottom of the board to keep everything from bending,it also gives you a way to mount the power supply inside the case.
Then go buy a insulator kit from digikey they are a 1$ a piece no big deal,and a tube of GOOOOOOOO!!all done
P.S. And thanks to Sproggy for all of the work involved for giving all of us a way to build are own !!!!!
Actually, Aaron, the silicon insulators (without grease) work just as well as the mica with grease...
No, they don't. Whether you believe me or not I don't particularily care, but I do care if someone on this board fries some expensive silicon because of improper heatsinking. The silicone insulators are NOT as good as mica w/grease. Period. It's not open for debate, I'm telling you. Somewhere in my 16 years (that is, info collected since I was 6) worth of collected electronics info I have data that proves it, but I don't feel like searching my archives at the moment.Originally posted by THEMP3KID
Actually, Aaron, the silicon insulators (without grease) work just as well as the mica with grease...
Honestly, for low power applications like this it really doesn't matter. But when you start getting into higher power silicon (ie. Athlon chips) heatsinking techniques become very important. Talk to any over-clocker, and the first thing they recommend is that you remove the stock transfer pad on the heatsink and replace it with grease.
For an example from the real world, we used to build clone PCs. In the PIII era, we recieved a bunch of heatsinks that had built in transfer pads. I thought "Cool, no grease". Imagine my surprise when customers started calling complaining about PCs locking up. After ****ing around with memory and power supplies, I decided to check the temperature of the CPU. Way too hot! Removed the pads, greased those babies up, problem solved.
Player: Pentium 166MMX, Amptron 598LMR MB w/onboard Sound, Video, LAN, 10.2 Gig Fujitsu Laptop HD, Arise 865 DC-DC Converter, Lexan Case, Custom Software w/Voice Interface, MS Access Based Playlists
Car: 1986 Mazda RX-7 Turbo (highly modded), 1978 RX-7 Beater (Dead, parting out), 2001 Honda Insight
"If one more body-kitted, cut-spring-lowered, farty-exhausted Civic revs on me at an intersection, I swear I'm going to get out of my car and cram their ridiculous double-decker aluminium wing firmly up their rump."
the white thermal grease, often used to the cpu, it aint conductive right? used it for the three other sinks on my sproggy 2.6, should i use it for the insulated ones too?
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