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Thread: CNX-P1900 Problem

  1. #1
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    Exclamation CNX-P1900 Problem

    I just installed my carputer and cannot get the PSU to supply power to any of the devices. The LED next to JP1 has the following blink pattern when ignition is turned to the on position:

    2 fast blink, 4 slow blink

    The LED does not remain on after this blink pattern.

    Here's my setup:

    Aopen Pandora MiniPC (powered by primary output of CNX-P1900)
    Lilliput 629 7" TS (powered by secondary output of CNX-P1900)
    Dlink 7-port powered USB hub (powered by CNX-P5V)
    Attached to Dlink USB hub are:
    USGlobalSat BU-353
    M-Audio MobilePre USB soundcard

    I looked through the LED fault conditions in the P1900 manual, but didn't see anything that applied. The LED blink pattern is the same whether I turn the key to ignition on or actually crank the engine (the engine does crank...the battery voltage is fine). My guess is that I've set a jumper incorrectly. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    30
    If you have a meter I would start with checking to ensure you have 12volts between your power and ground. Secondly do you have any of the jumpers installed? If so which ones and where?

    Brandon


    Quote Originally Posted by Quack
    I just installed my carputer and cannot get the PSU to supply
    power to any of the devices. The LED next to JP1 has the following blink pattern when ignition is turned to the on position:

    2 fast blink, 4 slow blink

    The LED does not remain on after this blink pattern.

    Here's my setup:

    Aopen Pandora MiniPC (powered by primary output of CNX-P1900)
    Lilliput 629 7" TS (powered by secondary output of CNX-P1900)
    Dlink 7-port powered USB hub (powered by CNX-P5V)
    Attached to Dlink USB hub are:
    USGlobalSat BU-353
    M-Audio MobilePre USB soundcard

    I looked through the LED fault conditions in the P1900 manual, but didn't see anything that applied. The LED blink pattern is the same whether I turn the key to ignition on or actually crank the engine (the engine does crank...the battery voltage is fine). My guess is that I've set a jumper incorrectly. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks.

  3. #3
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    Dec 2005
    Posts
    109
    It's looking like maybe the Honda ignition wire is red and battery is yellow. When I turn ignition on, the red wire goes from 0V to +12V. Looks like yellow is 12V constant. Is it me or is this opposite of normal? Now that I think of it, I think there was something hokey about the honda wiring when I did my head unit a few years back.

  4. #4
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    Dec 2005
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    Problem still not solved, but maybe some progress:

    Reversed the Honda wires (red to P1900 ignition yellow wire and yellow to P1900 battery red wire). Now the P1900 red LED remains solid after it blinks its firmware version. Still no power to the screen or computer though. Also, the fan still does not run even with the red LED solid.

    I also hooked up both P1900 red input wires and both black ground wires. Don't know if this mattered...

    As for jumper settings:

    JP1
    (1-2) open
    (3-4) open
    (5-6) open
    (7-8) jumpered
    (9-10) jumpered

    JP2 set to +12V

    JP3 open

    JP4 jumpered to DLYON with green/black plug from CNX-P5V

    JP5 (both) jumpered to +12V/+13V setting, the left pins are jumpered with the double red plug off of the CNX-P5V

    JP6 jumpered to +19V

  5. #5
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    38
    The last time i got a solid red led is when i have a constant power plugged into both the power input and IGN input.

    Only thing i can sugest, is go back to the beginning. Test power, then P-1900 with out 5 v add-on, test out puts, then add the 5 v. Eventually you ll find the kink

  6. #6
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    Dec 2005
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    109

    Progress, but still not there

    Found a few problems:

    1 - Constant power in the dashboard wasn't working...fuses look OK, but for some reason no power. So, I took +12V contstant straight from the battery. I'll track down the problem with the dashboard power later...that's really bothersome.
    2 - Damn RS type M barrel connector doesn't work on the Pandora. I had to push it all the way to one side for it to get contact. I cut apart the Pandora barrel connector, soldered it to +12V and GND on the PSU and no more shorting out.

    BUT!!!

    Now the screen and USB hub power up and the light on the front of the computer lights up. However, the computer isn't passing any signal to the screen or the USB hub. Screen displays "No VGA Signal" and USB devices connected to hub get no power.

    Anybody...any ideas? I'm getting tired of chasing down problems.

  7. #7
    Maximum Bitrate 3onDubs's Avatar
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    Don't know if this is your issue, but i know that the order matters when plugging in the connections on the carnetix regulators. I remember having a similar issue and it was resolved when i unplugged everything from the regulator, plugged in the power comming from the battery first, then waited for it to stop flashing, then plugged in the lead going to the computer. See if that works.
    PostCount++


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  8. #8
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    No dice, but thanks for the suggestion. I plugged in power, waited for it to stop blinking and then plugged in computer connector then turned ignition. I also tried plugging in power, turned on ignition, waited for flashing to stop and then plugged in computer connector. Neither way made a difference for me.

    What is strange is that the computer's power button/light remains lit, but the computer is completely inactive (no USB power, fan, etc.). Further, the power button is non-responsive. I know the computer was working in the house before I dropped it into the car an hour or two ago. Maybe the ACPI lead? I have no idea...definitely not an expert.

  9. #9
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    Also, just pulled the computer out of the car (PITA because I had soldered everything in place) and confirmed that it is still functioning properly. And, confirmed that in the car it is not going into Standby (blinking power light) or Hibernate (no power light). Don't know what kind of state it's in.

    This may be related...here's how I connected the power button to the ACPI relay:



    Green ACPI wire to one pin on the Aopen board, Black GND wire to the other pin.

  10. #10
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    bump...help please...car is in pieces

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