M2-ATX not enough juice. What can I remove?

**BGH** · 09-11-2006, 08:16 PM

After finally installing my Carputer it seems my M2-ATX isnt quite providing enough power. It looks like it almost is, it can run for around 2 - 3 minutes but then shuts down.

Here is what I am running

Gigabyte PCV2 mini-ATX mobo/CPU. This is a strange one. You wont find anything about it on the web/google etc. I contacted gigabyte about it and apparently it was an OEM board originally used in some DJ equipment or something. Anyway it has a 1ghz CPU and looks pretty much the same as an M10K. Using onboard VGA and Sound.

Panasonic slot load DVD writer
1 x 512 PC3200 RAM
8 inch touch screen
Radio X-Treme
BU353 USB
120Gb Seagate 3.5" HDD

and that's it.

I thought with the M@-ATX there would be plenty of headroom to play with there but obviously I was wrong.

I guess I could use a notebook drive but I have the 3.5" one mounted in there now and it would be a pain to change it.

I could also connect the screen up directly to the battery. Although it really would be derirable to have it run off the PSU.

Any suggestions?

**ARCTiC** · 09-11-2006, 10:13 PM

Well you're on the limit. I've a very similar configuration, and i'm on the limit too, but didn't experienced any problem.. until now:

EPIA M10000 (1ghz)
1 x 512MB PC3200 RAM
7" monitor
GPS BU353 USB
80GB 3.5" HD
PCI Wi-Fi Card
USB External DVD Recorder
USB POWERED HUB (5v rail)
USB Bluetooth dongle
USB Mini-Mouse
USB Mini Keyboard (no need any serious power)

I guess i uses less power on the monitor and HD, i don't have the radio card, but i have the Wi-Fi card (it would uses less power than a radio card), but also i have a HUB, the BT dongle, the mouse and keyboard.
A solution for you, that will work for me too if i don't burn my M2 before, is to switch from the 3.5" HD to 2.5"... you will save enough power... or add a second M2 to power only the HD, DVD and Monitor.

**BGH** · 09-12-2006, 01:25 AM

Hmmm, this really sucks. I'd prefer not to switch to a 2.5" drive as I have the 3.5" mounted just right. But on the other hand I really want to run the screen off the M2-ATX so the HDD is the only thing I can change

**Wiredwrx** · 09-12-2006, 01:36 AM

Originally Posted by ARCTiC

Well you're on the limit. I've a very similar configuration, and i'm on the limit too, but didn't experienced any problem.. until now:

EPIA M10000 (1ghz)
1 x 512MB PC3200 RAM
7" monitor
GPS BU353 USB
80GB 3.5" HD
PCI Wi-Fi Card
USB External DVD Recorder
USB POWERED HUB (5v rail)
USB Bluetooth dongle
USB Mini-Mouse
USB Mini Keyboard (no need any serious power)

I guess i uses less power on the monitor and HD, i don't have the radio card, but i have the Wi-Fi card (it would uses less power than a radio card), but also i have a HUB, the BT dongle, the mouse and keyboard.
A solution for you, that will work for me too if i don't burn my M2 before, is to switch from the 3.5" HD to 2.5"... you will save enough power... or add a second M2 to power only the HD, DVD and Monitor.

You are severaly taxing your 5v rail. Try a POL, you can get them in the MP3car.com store.

Your HUB takes some power to run, and each USB device is half an amp, and that DVD probably needs an amp of power. In addition, your MB (possibly also the memory) are using the 5v rail.

You should run a power calculator (do a search on that, there is alink with about 5 of them) to see what you are using. The m2 has 8 amps available on the 3.3, 5, and 12v rails. ALWAYS OVER ESTIMATE what the items require, NEVER underestimate.

Michael

**Maheriano** · 09-12-2006, 01:37 AM

I have the M1-ATX with only 90 watts and I'm running my 7 inch screen, Wi-Fi USB, GPS USB, keyboard, and on board sound/video.
Are you sure it's just not heating up the chip or wire to the point where it cuts out?

**BGH** · 09-12-2006, 03:29 AM

Doubt it, when I unplug the DVD drive it runs fine.

**JimmyFitz** · 09-12-2006, 10:28 AM

Originally Posted by BGH

Doubt it, when I unplug the DVD drive it runs fine.

There is your answer. If your DVD drive is USB powered then the problem is you are running out of juice on the 5V rail. What do you NEED the DVD drive for anyway? You can get a point of load supply just for the 5V.

**ARCTiC** · 09-12-2006, 10:49 AM

Originally Posted by Wiredwrx

You are severaly taxing your 5v rail. Try a POL, you can get them in the MP3car.com store.

Your HUB takes some power to run, and each USB device is half an amp, and that DVD probably needs an amp of power. In addition, your MB (possibly also the memory) are using the 5v rail.

You should run a power calculator (do a search on that, there is alink with about 5 of them) to see what you are using. The m2 has 8 amps available on the 3.3, 5, and 12v rails. ALWAYS OVER ESTIMATE what the items require, NEVER underestimate.

Michael

Yop i know i risk, what i doesn't know is if i'm really out here, this should be my peek on 5v rail (i didn't considered the shared voltage on 12v and 3.3v rail because they are fine, this one are only the drain on the 5v rail):

Mobo: 1A
RAM: 0.4A
Wi-Fi: 0.4A
3.5" HD: 0.9A
DVD: 1.2A
USB HUB: 1A
Keyboard: 0.05A
Mouse: 0.05A
GPS: 0.08A
BT: 0.08A

TOTAL: 5.21A

That's if my data aren't completely wrong.. i hope i'm not!

**jasonsjwou** · 09-12-2006, 11:56 AM

I'd try POL of 5V. You can buy 12VDC to 5VDC regulated PSU for real cheap, if you can wire things up yourself.

**Wiredwrx** · 09-12-2006, 12:59 PM

Originally Posted by ARCTiC

Yop i know i risk, what i doesn't know is if i'm really out here, this should be my peek on 5v rail (i didn't considered the shared voltage on 12v and 3.3v rail because they are fine, this one are only the drain on the 5v rail):

Mobo: 1A
RAM: 0.4A
Wi-Fi: 0.4A
3.5" HD: 0.9A
DVD: 1.2A
USB HUB: 1A
Keyboard: 0.05A
Mouse: 0.05A
GPS: 0.08A
BT: 0.08A

TOTAL: 5.21A

That's if my data aren't completely wrong.. i hope i'm not!

Calculators are not 100 percent accurate, so try not to be so precise when you do the numbers. Kinda like what I said before, round up, not down.

Also, USB is spec'd at half an amp each. Go with that number if you can.

The other thing is, remove one device at a time, and see if you can boot. You might figure out which one is a power hog. Then you can try a non USB device if possible, or get a POL, or perhaps get a different brand of the same, that might be less power hungry. In any event, running anything near it's rated specs for extended periods of time tend to shorten the life of devices. The less you tax any electronics, the better.

Michael