M2-ATX Problem - Fan runs but does not boot !

**Autonator** · 10-27-2006, 04:12 PM

Hi,

Installed my carputer, put my hands on the ignition key, took a deep breath and turned the ignition key while expecting some fireworks. The PC booted, I saw the boot screen and i went YES !! I shut down the PC.

But then, the nightmare began, I took the tools out and got ready to take the car for a spin. Started my car again, the PC wont boot.

The exact behaviour is:
CPU Fan runs,
No VGA signal.
Turn ignition off - CPU fan keeps running. (I have to pull teh power wires out of M2 to shut it down).

I went back in my cave to browse the problem online, came back after an hour, turned ignition, the PC BOOTED !! but then i tried it again, and same behaviour.

PC works fine when i hook it up to a ATX PC Supply in my cave.

My PC config is:
- COMMELL LV-677
- 1G 1Dimm DDR2
- 1.8 Core Duo
- Mini PCI WiFi from a broken HP laptop.
- Dynamix 816 8" LCD TS. (Using one 12v (Yellow wire) drive molex from M2 to power LCD.)
- USB Class 1 Blue Tooth Adapter.
- Windows MCE
-M2 set to 5sec/2hour jumper setting.

Resolution attempt:
I talked to live online support at MiniBox.com (manufacturer) for M2. He said i need to call LOGIC supply first they have a tech support dept and that he wasnt a technical person. He said they usually issue a RMA for this. Did not know why or if this is a common problem.

I contacted LogicSupply, and the tech guy spoke really nicely and asked a few people around him about thsi behaviour. I heard them say they werent familiar with such scenerio. I told teh tech support guy that its a common problem and gave him teh URL to MP3Car.com and he said he will browse the posts for this problem. He told me that he will email me once he researches on this.

In my head:
I read a few posts about this only to find they all had a open end. No one really found or fixed this problem. Some of them claimed they fixed this problem by doing more than one thing some of them being:
1. Inverted the ATX wire (

BULL ****).
2. Inverted the on off button (

May be another behaviour but not this - Part BUL ****).
3. Added a power on off button (

Uh Uh Uh, You didn't say the magic word !

Thats not what we paid to end up like).
4. Inverted the Switched and Un-Switched (

huh what? may be he put it wrong in the first place).
5. The only one that intrested me was the one who actually reprogrammed the PIC

, cuz according to him before the ON signal is sent to the power pins on the MOBO, the M2 hasnt finished powering up the rails yet. He boasts about what he did but never mentioned of any procedure, or tools he used or a snippet of the values he changed. makes a lot of logical sense though.

Now taking #5, I asked my self a question why did he go through all that? what about changing the jumpers on M2 and increasing the 5 seconds recommended timing to more than that

? Why build a car just to try on a wheel that you have? I am going to try this one tonight when i get back to my cave. Will post results here.

If you guys have found or resolved the problem, please let me know.

O yes one last thing.. My car voltage is good.

**jschrauwen** · 10-27-2006, 05:08 PM

I believe I found the 1st thread that you're refering to. I'm not sure if this one would help.
M2-atx anti-thump suck
Although I'm using the DSATX PSU there may be some inherent similarities. My MB would turn off and then off again until I introduced a small mA relay between the PSU and the MB turn-on connector. Apparently the LV MB's needed a longer turn-on pulse than what was available from the PSU. I'm still a noob but I hope this helps.

**v8 scimitar** · 10-27-2006, 07:52 PM

Jumper timing isn't going to do squat for you, that's for shut-down not start up. The timing for start up is in the pic programming or the values of the components on the board, you will have noted that they changed a resistor to change the timing from your extensive reading. The M2 for whatever reason isn't universally compatible, I have two of them and none of them work on my board. You have two choices, either RMA your M2 and hope you have a bad one (first choice) or change your power supply for one that is more universal or known to wok with your board.

**Wiredwrx** · 10-27-2006, 08:37 PM

Originally Posted by v8 scimitar

Jumper timing isn't going to do squat for you, that's for shut-down not start up. The timing for start up is in the pic programming or the values of the components on the board, you will have noted that they changed a resistor to change the timing from your extensive reading. The M2 for whatever reason isn't universally compatible, I have two of them and none of them work on my board. You have two choices, either RMA your M2 and hope you have a bad one (first choice) or change your power supply for one that is more universal or known to wok with your board.

Though, I believe there is a fix for the M2 start up timing issue with the Commell boards, and the M2 people can do it for you.

Michael

**tn6478** · 10-27-2006, 08:49 PM

call Ituner and they will mod the board for you.. the boards start the
>>>> kick/stop/kick/start cycle only when V(in) -> 13V.
. Call Ituner at 1-510-226-6033 and speak to Andrei Bulucea. Then he will ask you to send the board to the address below. I got 2 of mines modded that way.
Ituner Networks Corp
47801 Fremont Bvd
Fremont, CA 94538

**LostRenegade** · 10-27-2006, 10:48 PM

I have the same problem and just sent my M2 back to be replaced. Any suggested fixes that I can do rather then sending it to Ituner?

**tn6478** · 10-28-2006, 10:36 AM

Nope have to be sent to Ituner

**Autonator** · 10-29-2006, 04:51 AM

tn6478:
Thanks dude, The contact info will help expedite things. I will contact them on monday. I did email them but only got a support tk# so far.

v8 scimitar:
ok i could have misread the m2 manual, you are correct the jumpers are for off config only. I certainly would chnage the power supply, would you be kind to say which one? by now i would have ordered anoethr one. OPUS makes a 150W-220W they seem to be better than this piece of **** M2 also DSATX is anoethr way to go.. but the problem is are they built to fit the voom PC case? If some one here is using a non M2 car PS in a voom case.. please let me know.

jschrauwen:
Longer turn on pulse eh? so basically if i short the power pins manually, that would technically will give a longer ON signal.. correct? I have tried that.. it does not work. May be works in your case. BTW, DSATX.. does it fit the voom case? any pics how you have it?

Finally, some tests i ran:

TEST 1:
I hooked up the Carputer to a indoor Car batter simulating power supply. The first time it booted.. went to windows.. then i saw the cursor in the middle of the screen with a blank background.. thats where it froze. Now make note that this was teh forst time i turned it on after a day. I shut it off and then same behaviour.. no VGA, No beep just fan runs.

Result:So it is confirmed that the power supply does turn on if you give it a few hours of rest but only the first time..but then something else happens and it freezez windows during first boot after rest at the same spot (cursor on blank screen). The second time, it will go back to same ol ****.. (no VGA, no Beep) and then keeps repeating this until you rest it again and then it will boot once.
====================

TEST2:
All jumper settings were tested. Dumb mode was tested as well as Manual ON by shorting pins.

Result: Same ol **** !!
====================

TEST3:
Ignition switching was disabled (no wire on that pin). Amp remote was removed. Power down to very basic..

Result: Same ol **** !!
====================

CONCLUSION:
The power supply is definately fuked. not as in defective, but as in built to **** quality standards to begin with.
at this point i really am looking to move away from mini****Box.com products and try anotehr solution only if i am sure that it will fit voom case without any major hammering. let me know if anyone using something else.

meanwhile i will persue mini****box.com support and see what comes out of there. Will keep you guys posted.

I eventually want to create a thread that would have a dfinite answer to this problem so others dont have to go through useless threads just full of whines and cries and no real resolution.

**v8 scimitar** · 10-29-2006, 06:16 AM

I went for the opus after going through loads of stuff with mini box and getting a 2nd M2 that they said was guaranteed to work with my sp13000. It didn't work and because of the time delay of doing anything between the UK and the US I gave up. I have never seen a voom case in the flesh but I doubt an opus is going to fit. You can get the opus in its own external case so if you have room then that would be a solution.
Wouldn't like to comment on the quality of the M2 but in comparison to a normal supply its relatively expensive. I tried every supply I could get my hands on at the time and even the cheapest generic junk one booted my board without any problems. To me this means the M2 should do the same if only even in dumb mode. You don't get different versions of opus or dsatx for different boards either. That aside the M2 is also getting bad press for various other reasons as well.

I guess its true, you get what you pay for!

**jschrauwen** · 10-29-2006, 07:35 AM

Originally Posted by Autonator

jschrauwen:
Longer turn on pulse eh? so basically if i short the power pins manually, that would technically will give a longer ON signal.. correct? I have tried that.. it does not work. May be works in your case. BTW, DSATX.. does it fit the voom case? any pics how you have it?

Not sure if it will fit Voom case. DSATX - 4.15"L x 3.5"W x 1.0"H as compared to the M2 ATX of 5.76"L x 1.77"W x ~1.0"H

My DSATX 220w experience
This may be helpfull ===> DSATX Shuts down comp after BIOS boot
http://www.mpegbox.com/dsatx.html
http://store.mp3car.com/ProductDetai...Code=PWR%2D023