So im tryin to make a carpc case as clean as possible but still removable...i have a travla c134...i want to add a second dc plug for my lilliput to be powered by the m2-atx...can i pull this power from the P4 plug on my M2-ATX?
Secondly, when i originally got my m2-atx i thought i noted that the unit wouldnt power on if it was in a "smart" mode if the IGN wire wasnt connected to anything, but i just recently tried it again and it powers right on...so is the m2-atx supposed to be able to power on if set in mode2 with only the +12v and ground connected?
So if it is not supposed to be able to come on when in mode2 without ign being on have a fried my m2-atx?
I don't want a fight!
Gonna sound weird but I say:
No.
Not Automatically of course, but manually Yes.
#1. Your thread title says P4, so I am assuming you are using a P4. They need that wire to boot up for power. The screen will eat that all up. So Yes if you are using an C3/C7 or something low power, but No if you are actually using a P4.
#2. It should be able to boot up as long as you have +12 and ground, and push the power button. At least mine does. Maybe we both have defective ones!It should not however just turn on by itself. (of course)
Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store
Alright sounds like im ok, and im using a Via SP13000 so the P4 connector is open, while im at it i have a few more questions, is there a limit on the length of the cable for the amp switch and does anyone have a good suggestion for a connector i could use to have the auto switches be unpluggable from the rear of the case? I plan on using both the Amp and Aux switch since im gonna use the psu to turn on the screen.
Thanks for all the help guys
EDIT: So i was looking around a 4 pole connector to use for my 2 switches and came across this. Would it be able to carry the current of the switches? Ive heard they are +12v so im kinda iffy on that but i need something small and this would be perfect
![]()
Ok so it seemed to work this way for a awhile, but i started playin around a lil more and if i jump it then plug it in it doesn't start but then if i unplug it unjump it then plug it back in it will start. So i think it does have to be unjumpered so looks like im goin with the switch method.
Hmm, one of those would carry the current but I probably wouldn't use it. Those types on connectors are not designed for that kind of thing, and the poles will get shorted together when you are plugging and unplugging it. Whether or not that matters in your application though... A DIN connector or CB style mic connector would be better, but they are bigger. You can get mini-DIN though.
First Integra car PC:
[XXXXXXXXXX] - 100% done, now removed and sold to be put into a BMW
Second Integra car PC Worklog:
[XXXXXXXXX.] - 95% done, PC in the car and running. Fine tuning in progress...
Im actually considering a DB9 connector now, i have a 9 wires total that need to be handled, they go along these lines. +12V IGN wire, Amp RMT and ground, AUX switch and ground, Mode jumper, +12V/Ground to my monitor. Any input on whether a DB9 would be able to handle this, mainly the 12V from the IGN and to the lilliput.
I couldn't find specs for a DB9, but I tend to think that it would not be a good idea to power your Lilli through it. Yes, the lilli probably only requires about an amp of power, but I think that might be too much for the DB9.
If you can find a spec sheet for a DB9 connector with max amperage, then you would know for sure.
Michael
...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.
I found a 12 wire male/female plug set at RadioShack here for $6. Not pricey at all, available off the shelf today, would allow you to use the proper size wiring for your application, and above all would be a quick, easy solution suitable for the automotive environment. They're interlocking connectors as well...which would prevent road vibration from jarring the connection loose (the only DB9 connectors I've seen are non-interlocking). Finally, the extra conductors would allow for easy system expansion in the future...
Now that I think about it, I may just pick up a set of these for myself!
- Monthly North Texas Meet thread
- My worklog
- gDrive Install pics
- How to add your CarPC specs to your username
An amateur built the Ark. The Titanic was built by professionals.
Bookmarks