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Thread: Did I hook something up wrong? M2-ATX problem

  1. #11
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    Like Toaster said,

    If the unit is actually connected the way you said it is, with the constant power and ingition power to the battery positive, and the ground to the negative, and in Dumb PSU mod, and you have no power on the ATX wires, then something is wrong.

    Confirm you have installed the wires correctly. Confirm your jumper settings. Check your board for anything that looks borken or burnt up.

    There is a known issue with the M2 and the Epia boards, you can look into that as well, but again, no power on the ATX wires means something is wrong. Have you check the on board fuse to see if it is good. You said you confirmed power to the M2 is good, how did you do that/where did you test?

    Michael
    ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

  2. #12
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    The fuse on the M2 is not burnt or broken. Nothing I can see on the board looks damaged either. I didn't get any sparks, smoke, or burning smells when I hooked up the M2.

    I've checked, double checked, triple checked my wires, my jumpers, and anything I could fathom related to how I hooked up the M2. Everything seems to be alright there too.

    I used a multimeter to check that the M2 was getting power from the battery. It's getting 12.4 volts on both the power lead and the ignition lead.

    I ordered an OPUS 120w today, it should be here on Monday. We'll see how the OPUS handles. I may send the M2 over to my electrical engineer buddy and see what he can figure out.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gearhead61 View Post
    The fuse on the M2 is not burnt or broken. Nothing I can see on the board looks damaged either. I didn't get any sparks, smoke, or burning smells when I hooked up the M2.

    I've checked, double checked, triple checked my wires, my jumpers, and anything I could fathom related to how I hooked up the M2. Everything seems to be alright there too.

    I used a multimeter to check that the M2 was getting power from the battery. It's getting 12.4 volts on both the power lead and the ignition lead.

    I ordered an OPUS 120w today, it should be here on Monday. We'll see how the OPUS handles. I may send the M2 over to my electrical engineer buddy and see what he can figure out.
    WHERE did you check for voltage going to the M2?

    Also, how/where did you test for voltage on the ATX connector?

    Michael
    ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

  4. #14
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    I pulled the fasteners off that connect to the M2 (the spade connectors) and tested the voltage on each of those leads. Then I reconnected them and tested the power coming out of the ATX connector. I put the red probe from my multimeter into the connector and then put the black probe into a pin that was a known ground on the connector. Did I do that wrong?

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gearhead61 View Post
    I used a multimeter to check that the M2 was getting power from the battery. It's getting 12.4 volts on both the power lead and the ignition lead.
    Did you check the ignition and power leads against the same ground to which the M2 is wired, or another, seperate ground?

    Is the M2 ground a known good ground (other installed equipment operating succesfully with the same ground, etc...).

    Sorry if this seems simple, but I've had grounds test good with multimeter that fail to operate my equipment in the past....and you didn't specifically mention checking the ground.

  6. #16
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    Initially I had my carputer hooked up to my amplifier distribution blocks, and I know the ground block has good grounds because I don't have any induced ground loop noise, even with my RCAs running next to my 1/0 power cable (I know it's kind of a no-no, but it's working well for me so far). After it wouldn't work there, I pulled the carputer out and hooked it directly to the + and - battery terminals to see if I couldn't get something. That is when I pulled out the multimeter and started measuring.

    Thanks for the help, even if it's really basic help. I'm not VERY good with this stuff, so even just reinforcing the basics is very helpful. Any ideas on anything else I might have done wrong? I feel like I've checked and tried everything, but there could be something really basic that just completely slipped by me like you just asked?

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    not sure if you got this fixed yet ?? but could it be becuase you have the white cable, remote hooked up to the positive terminal on the battery ?? isnt the white cable suppose to be hooked to the ignition cable ?? and not directly on the positive terminal ?? try unplugging the white cable and just leave the black and red in tehre and see how that goes ??

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoupeE46 View Post
    not sure if you got this fixed yet ?? but could it be becuase you have the white cable, remote hooked up to the positive terminal on the battery ?? isnt the white cable suppose to be hooked to the ignition cable ?? and not directly on the positive terminal ?? try unplugging the white cable and just leave the black and red in tehre and see how that goes ??
    Nope, it is not that. The white wire is for ignition, and all the ignition does is wait for 12 volts on that wire. If there is 12 volts, like the car is running, then the M2 says, Hey, time to power on. Remove the 12 volts, and it says, ooops, car is off, time to power down. Putting it to a constant 12 volt source tells the M2 to power on. THe m2 doesn't care if it is an "ignition" wire, or a constant wire. It only knows to look for 12 volts, which it is getting.

    As said before, if you have good positive, switched, and ground, and ar in dumb PSU mode, and there is no power on the ATX connector, there is a problem with the M2

    Michael
    ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiredwrx View Post
    Nope, it is not that. The white wire is for ignition, and all the ignition does is wait for 12 volts on that wire. If there is 12 volts, like the car is running, then the M2 says, Hey, time to power on. Remove the 12 volts, and it says, ooops, car is off, time to power down. Putting it to a constant 12 volt source tells the M2 to power on. THe m2 doesn't care if it is an "ignition" wire, or a constant wire. It only knows to look for 12 volts, which it is getting.

    As said before, if you have good positive, switched, and ground, and ar in dumb PSU mode, and there is no power on the ATX connector, there is a problem with the M2

    Michael
    ok gotcha.. so for testing purpose i can just connect the White wire to the same positive terminal i connected the positive lead to, and it should still work correc t?? thanks.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoupeE46 View Post
    and it should still work correc t?? thanks.
    Do you mean "and it should still work, correc t?? thanks." or "and it should still work correc tly?? thanks."

    It will work. It won't, however, work correctly in the sense that it won't shutdown unless the white wire is removed from positive.

    Michael
    ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

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