Alright this is my other creation which is my wife 2k Honda Accord SE 4dr.
She brought it brand new and basically every nut and bolts in the car is original. Well except fluid and filters.
Most of the time, we go on long trip, we took the Matrix simply because it has more usefull storage space than the Accord. On the other hand, the Accord is more powerfull when uphill and smoother ride. That is why I did the Matrix first rather than the Accord. Now it time for it.
The goal of the project:
- Keep it is as simple to operate/use.
- 15 minutes convert back to factory.
- GPS and Music is the main usage. Anything else is extra.
- Sound quality is NOT the main goal of the project. No pop, crack, whine is all needed.
- 3rd DIN attachment to house the factory single DIN radio/cassettd player bought from H and A Accessories for about 32 bucks ship to my door. These guys are awsome. The first one they sent me has a broken clip. I shot picture and email them, they send me another one 2nd day service and opt me to keep the broken one for spare. The 2nd one pack a little better. Local Honda stealership want it for 80 something.
- PC: is a DELL GX150 bought it from carPC guys selling in the forum. He advertise the PC came with 256MB RAM, but mine came with only 128MB. With additional 256MB RAM bought from fleebay, this PC is okay for the purpose. Using onboard sound, 16MB TNT Pro video card. Add a 2 port USB2 PCI card, 160 GB 3.5" Seagate HD and I'm set.
- PSU: Custom build sproggy I used to power the Matrix setup before is used for this one. I took out the SDC circuitry and use the uSDC instead. The reason is that the function of the SDC in the DSATX is wonderfull for sequencing operation. Hence easy to use. I just want it to be use like a regular car audio device. No button to turn on/off. The SDC in the sproggy need some human interaction when it out of sequence. I don't want a flat battery or corrupted file system if the SDC is out of sync. The uSDC is bought from a fellow member (genesis), but that one has some problem. Jeff couldn't find out what happen and opt to send me a new one for free (not event postage). I opt to pay the postage for it (thanks Jeff).
- Monitor: 2 deads = 1 good sometime isn't a case, but in this case, yes. I bought 2 deads lilliputs from fellow member here for 50 bucks each. The first one is basically new with a blow fuse and broken ribbon cables. The 2nd one also has broken ribbon cables and screw up LCD panel. The panel has been open up to "fix" is probably due to broken ribbon cable that the user dont' know about. So I endup with 2 good controller board and a good panel. After a few hrs spent, I manage to fix the ribbon cables and have a full functional monitor with an extra controller board. The controller board are different (9pins vs 10 pins). Both board do auto on via code fine. Don't ask me to sell it to you cuz I'll keep it as a replacement board. I may switch the board with the lilliput in the Matrix because that one can't auto on by code.
- Case: I bought a sheet of plexi from home depot and use Weldon #4 (left over from previous project) to weld together. I made it big enought to put it under the driver seat (passenger seat has an Alpine CDC in there).
- GPS: Delorme Earthmate USB (NOT LT-120) that I used in the Matrix (was replace with a AyAy Sir GPS) before. The Earthmate is a good unit. I had 2 of those (the other one is in the Supra).
- OS: is nLite by me. Basically I strip down almost everything that I think isnt' essential for carPC use.
- Front End: as you already know, the customize version of RoadRunner.
- Sound: Onboard SoundMax feed to the HU via cassette adapter. You may ask, why dont' I yank the CDC and has an aux input instead. Well, the sound quality between the Aux input and the cassette adapter isn't that different to my ears nor her. Also, my wife still want the CDC in there for her CD collection.
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Now come the screen fabrication: Click on image for larger size
Fabrication goal: NO BONDO, filer materials to sand. Remember, 15 minutes back to factory.
Begine with a piece of 1/8 fiberboard I bought it many moon ago from home depot.
Cut it into size 2 pieces.
This is what I end up with. A few indented cut was for clearance of the clips on the radio bezel.
Test fit the screen (pare panel).
Some of you may wonder what is the Lilliput panel measurement is. Here you go.
Test fit it in the bezel
On the back of it.
Okay, some of you may ask why don't I use a thicker piece of fiberboard instead of 2 and why I use 2 pieces. Well, thicker mean harder to work with and I have to buy the thicker board. 1/8" thickness is the perfect size I think. The first piece (front) is the opening for the panel and that had to fit perfectly on the opening of the Double DIN bezel. The 2nd piece (back) is there to hold the panel from moving up/down/left/right. Also as a way to hold the whole piece to the bezel. I epoxy the 2 pieces together with very carefull alignment so they won't be out of wack.
After some high grid (600) dry sand, prime, painted, this is the result. The paint is darker than the bezel, but what the hell. I used left over wrinkle paint from the Supra project. This time, I don't want the wrinkle effect so I take the time with the spraying .
Mouting the wooden bezel to the radio bezel: I use screw and scrap piece of plexi.
Wooden bezel is completely mount in the radio bezel
In the car and ready.
I didn't take any picture of mounting the controller board, but basically I use 2 small piece of wood (paint stiring stick from home depot) for top and bottom at about 1/8" thick x 5/8" wide x 8" long. Screw the wood stick to the back piece of the wooden bezel to keep the panel down. Screw the controller board to the wooden sticks. The button board is double sided tape mount to the gap below the HVAC bezel. The IR sensor is extended to place between the gap of the 3nd din. While I'm at it, I also use the Lilliput IR sensor as a sensor for the cheapo LIRC using with girder using information found on this thread http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/lcd-...ut-owners.html.
I didn't take any pictures of the case an other items because basically, it is the same/similar with many other installation.
Over all, this is the easiest and fastest setup. There is no bondo, filer material to sand. Just a little smoothing sand on the wood and I am done. I just don't want to send my many hours in the garaage sanding out bondo, rather than playing with my little boy. I would recommend this method to any one who has a standard Double DIN opening.
One more thing I want to credit to Honda is the for sight of the 3nd DIN attachment. This make the job freaking easier althought the kits doesn't fit perfectly (some big gap along the edge), giving it a factory item. If it as after market item, it's great, but a factory item, I expect it to fit a little better (little to no gap in between 1mm gap instead of 3mm gap).
Looks great. I am looking to do something similar for my install. I hope it just looks as good as yours when it is finished.
Never let the truth get in the way of a good story
VER. 3.0- Check out below:
Some of you interest in what did I use to cut the wood. Well, I use an ultility knife with a sharp blade like this one.
Cut it a little smaller (1-2mm) and start sand it down to pre-drawn lines/perimeter. Basically, most of the work done was sanding .
Very nice install, i like the oem look. That 3rd din is pretty cool I'm going to e-mail honda to see if i can use that in a 00 civic.
Very good install. It is simpler than mine. lol I spent a ton of time fabricating the dash.