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Thread: 2006 Ford F-150 Lariat SuperCrew

  1. #11
    Constant Bitrate mindtool's Avatar
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    Update... 1/11/2008

    I have moved my pictures once again...sorry folks, but the new and final URL is:

    http://www.necevil.com/gallery/index...el=album&id=20

    I am now working on a reconfiguration of power supply to my truck. I'm using two Odyssey PC2150s to keep my truckputer on all the time and I'm using a SurePower 1314-200 battery separator (uni-directional) with aux-start assist. This configuration will allow me to run my truckputer and my CCTV system on all the time. I drive more than 1-2 hours everyday so this provides me plenty of time to charge up my main battery first then the rear batteries. This allows me to run my system all the time so I don't have to keep beating up the pc by having to hibernate/start-up/hibernate/start-up all the time. Those batteries I have are about $300 a piece. They're dry-cell with 100 amp/hr capacity. 75lbs each. Completely sealed using mil-spec construction and no hydrogen emission. With the two batteries, I have a total of 200 amp/hr and on a load of roughly 7-8 amps, the batteries run for almost 40-50 hours without a charge.

    The purpose of the battery separator allows me to separate the loads between the main battery which is preserved for the main electronics such as starting and general truck accessories. But the aux power would be to power up my pc all the time and my internet router and CCTV system. The battery separator's aux-start assist has been a lifesaver a couple times, I was starting to a dead battery, but the main battery sensor on this separator was able to sense the dead battery voltage and engaged to provide auxilary power from the two 2150s i have to start my engine w/o me even knowing it until the charging system warned me of a bad main battery. So sweet. Good bye jumper cables.

    I have caught people doing damage to my truck such as dinging my doors and keying while shopping or just generally parked and provided photos to the police and recovered from those damages every single time. My auto insurance has dropped a whole $34 per month as a result (roughly a $400 a year savings).

    I put the two batteries in my toolbox that sits on my bed. I'll be putting up pictures of my modificaton process to do a full-time power system.

    I'm also adding a 45-50 watt solar panel on top of my toolbox to trickle charge my rear batteries while parked in the daytime. I live in Phoenix, Arizona, the home of 326 days of sun. Might as well tap into that free energy. My PC/CCTV only uses a total of 50 watts. So the batterys would be just running on a 1 or 2 amp load the entire time.

    Cheers,
    Ian
    2006 Ford F-150 Lariat SuperCrew 5.4L
    StreetDeck
    Project: [■■■■■■■■■-] 90% complete (reconfiguration phase)
    Status report:
    -Configuring and wiring the camera system

    http://www.necevil.com/gallery/index...el=album&id=20

  2. #12
    Constant Bitrate mindtool's Avatar
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    Reply to JDizzle

    Quote Originally Posted by JDizzle View Post
    Is that bezel from the metra kit? It looks like a perfect fit. Very nice OEM look, I love it.
    Yah. I got it from circuit city. I took apart the monitor to put it into one of the conversion kits that mounts into the metra kit to make it look like a custom install.

    Ian
    2006 Ford F-150 Lariat SuperCrew 5.4L
    StreetDeck
    Project: [■■■■■■■■■-] 90% complete (reconfiguration phase)
    Status report:
    -Configuring and wiring the camera system

    http://www.necevil.com/gallery/index...el=album&id=20

  3. #13
    Constant Bitrate grayvader's Avatar
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    Cool setup. I really like the CCTV angle

  4. #14
    Constant Bitrate mindtool's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dejanifer View Post
    pretty sweet. is everything mounted in the dash?
    No, as you can see in the pictures. I have the dash populated w/ the screen and only the screen. There's awfully a lot of space underneath but I'm fine w/ that. I prefer to have easy access to my PC and if needed, I can easily remove it. So, I placed my pc under the rear right passenger seat where my Kyocera KR-1 router is.

    Ian
    2006 Ford F-150 Lariat SuperCrew 5.4L
    StreetDeck
    Project: [■■■■■■■■■-] 90% complete (reconfiguration phase)
    Status report:
    -Configuring and wiring the camera system

    http://www.necevil.com/gallery/index...el=album&id=20

  5. #15
    Constant Bitrate mindtool's Avatar
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    News Flash.... I have officially tossed my Kyocera KR-1 router and gone with an Airlink+ AR360W3G router that only cost 80 bucks at Frys.com and it totally works way better than the Kyocera KR-1.

    The reasons are:
    -VPN Passthrough works much more consistently
    -Card reconnects almost instantly
    -Device starts up instantly
    -Consumes much less power than the KR1 router because I'm using a full-time battery system
    -Consistent on staying online and not being so susceptible with idle time shut offs
    -Can actually adjust the idle timeouts that the KR1 doesn't allow you to do - this resulted in 4-10 minute VPN cut-offs.
    2006 Ford F-150 Lariat SuperCrew 5.4L
    StreetDeck
    Project: [■■■■■■■■■-] 90% complete (reconfiguration phase)
    Status report:
    -Configuring and wiring the camera system

    http://www.necevil.com/gallery/index...el=album&id=20

  6. #16
    Constant Bitrate mindtool's Avatar
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    Well today... another update...

    A few weeks ago after activating the auxilary power system using the two behemoth batteries that provides 100 amps per hour... Mind you, I had a 95 amp alternator which is the stock in most F-150s in the 2004-2006 year range. A week ago, this alternator died. I was shocked that it died this early. Lucky for me, I took it in for warranty repair and they let me keep my dead alternator because I figured I might be able to rebuild it and use it for later.

    Guess what? I find out quickly that the load that was put on this alternator was astronomical. I had three batteries that this alternator was supplying power to. I also have two amps totaling 1475 watts of power and at 14 volts, that is around 105 amps of total output capability. I rarely go up to 50% of this capability. Now, you can see how everything all added up. I was consistently taxing this 95 amp alternator.

    I came across a site that provided extremely high output alternators in the same package as the OEM ones. They're just rebuilt with more wire windings and doubled number of diodes and rectifiers. The chassis of the alternator is the exact same as the stock one but does 105 amps at 850 RPMs and then jumps to 215 amps at 1200 rpms. I bought this alternator for 229 and got it last night and installed it myself.

    My problems are now solved. Except that I need to do-away with the stock battery as the main battery. The back batteries are deep-cycle batteries and the main battery is just a regular ol' battery designed for more cranking power. So, I'm going to buy an Odyssey PC1700 battery to make all the battery technologies all the same so that way everything's all completely safe.
    2006 Ford F-150 Lariat SuperCrew 5.4L
    StreetDeck
    Project: [■■■■■■■■■-] 90% complete (reconfiguration phase)
    Status report:
    -Configuring and wiring the camera system

    http://www.necevil.com/gallery/index...el=album&id=20

  7. #17
    Newbie Kokopelli's Avatar
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    Oct 2006
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    Sierra Vista, AZ
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    Crazy! I'm working on the same gig. Originally I put the monitor on a flex neck that came out of the accessory tray above the radio. I was using a deck to amplify the PC out put.

    v2.0 is going for the cleaner look- similar to what you've done. I purchased a VIA PX1000 board and I'm ditching FM all together- going with a XM-PCR that I picked up on eBay for $30. I installed an MTX amp under the rear passenger seat and an MTX amped sub under the rear driver seat. Replaced the door speakers with 6x9s.

    v1.0 & v1.1 worked ok- just a little buggy because of the low quality hardware. I used a Lilliput knock off and had to replace the USB interface card. I also installed a Comwell LV Mini-ITX board which was bulky, hot, and loud!

    I'm going with the plan that the entire TruckPuter will have the same foot print as the stock radio. I know there's a BUNCH of room behind the F-150 dash- but it always seems that the space is bigger than appears.

    How are you cooling the system when the truck is not running?


    Work In Progress
    HARDWARE: [|||||||||-] 90%
    SOFTWARE: [|||||||||-] 90%
    BUDGET: [||||||||||]!!!!!!! 170%


  8. #18
    Constant Bitrate mindtool's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kokopelli View Post
    How are you cooling the system when the truck is not running?
    I live in Phoenix, Arizona. Pretty much the only place it ever gets about 145-160F inside the vehicle in the country. Thats why we have laws here not to leave children or any living thing like a dog or cat in the vehicle for any amount of time unattended.

    The above comment was to give you an idea of how hot it gets in the vehicle when parked here. Actually, my PC is using a Toshiba hard drive rebranded with the Panasonic name that I took out of a toughbook. Those drives have very high temperature tolerances and shock tolerances. The one I have has up to about 250G's of shock tolerance when powered down. When powered up, I don't know exactly but has about 10x the tolerance of a standard drive in laptops.

    As far as the processor goes, I'm using a Core 2 Duo T7200 (2.0GHz) and an MSI Industrial 945 board and I made my own modified version of a heatsink. I used an all-copper heat sink for the mobile cpus and tossed the fan on it and replaced it with a dynatron high-speed blower for a 1U server for the Prescott CPUs (the ones that get ridiculously hot). The blower sucks in from below meaning that rather than the conventional way of blowing down and recycling the hot air... doesn't work. I needed to suck it from below and blow it away. I'm using a Travla box which is perforated all around the left/right/top sides which lets it vent upwards. Heat travels upwards right? I've had my machine run full time through a 105 degree day without a problem. Plus those Core 2 Duos throttle down automatically when they get too hot.

    As an emergency safety, I have set in the BIOS to shut down the machine when it gets excessively hot. The system will log the unexpected shutdown and I have never had it shutdown like that. So, that tells me that my cooling is doing something right and plus my windows are heavily tinted with tint that blocks 99% of UV rays. That's what heats up the interior faster than the heat traveling through the chassis. The tint by itself makes a huge difference.

    Ian
    2006 Ford F-150 Lariat SuperCrew 5.4L
    StreetDeck
    Project: [■■■■■■■■■-] 90% complete (reconfiguration phase)
    Status report:
    -Configuring and wiring the camera system

    http://www.necevil.com/gallery/index...el=album&id=20

  9. #19
    Newbie Kokopelli's Avatar
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    Oct 2006
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    Sierra Vista, AZ
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    16

    Face plate

    I fabreicated the fave plate this weekend- here are a few before and afters...

    There's this funny feeling in your tummy when you tear apart your new $200 Lilliput monitor and cut the case apart to the point of no return




    And then it fits as planned



    And then it looks factory... with alittle more tweaking


    Work In Progress
    HARDWARE: [|||||||||-] 90%
    SOFTWARE: [|||||||||-] 90%
    BUDGET: [||||||||||]!!!!!!! 170%


  10. #20
    Constant Bitrate mindtool's Avatar
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    You live in Sierra Vista... Would you happen to know the Weiss family out there? Deaf kids, both parents are teachers?

    That set up looks good. I know exactly what you mean about having that uneasy feeling in your stomach when taking apart those monitors. I've gotten used to it after breaking so many of them. I'm on my 5th one right now. I was fortunate and got 4 of them on eBay straight from Hong Kong for like 400 bucks. And broke them all. LoL. This time, I got this mount:

    http://www.mechatroniks.com/wrx/ordering.html

    It fits perfectly. I tried to do it the old-school way and totally got my butt kicked (thats where all 4 monitors went...). You're using a different Lilliput model than I am since yours has buttons on the side and mine's the 629. Those 629s have a manufacturer coded keypress on the remote that you can enable them to turn on immediately when power is introduced. Thisfeature allowed me to hide my buttons and make it more of a clean install. Everybody who has been in my truck think that the whole install was entirely OEM'ed. That's just the way I like it.

    Ian
    2006 Ford F-150 Lariat SuperCrew 5.4L
    StreetDeck
    Project: [■■■■■■■■■-] 90% complete (reconfiguration phase)
    Status report:
    -Configuring and wiring the camera system

    http://www.necevil.com/gallery/index...el=album&id=20

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