Thread: 2006 Infiniti M35 Sport Carputer

This is what I’m using in detail:

Motherboard Gigabyte GA-MA69GM-S2H (AMD 690G Chipset) mATX

Integrated ATI Radeon X1250 graphic with DVI/HDMI HDCP support
Integrated ALC 889A 108 dB signal to noise 8 Channel audio (supports Blue Ray playback)
VGA/S-Video/Composite (YPbPr) interface
SPDIF in/out
1 Serial port only.
10 USB 2.0/2 Firewire support

AMD Athlon X2 4600 EE (65W) 2.4 GHz Max temp 72C (55C) step F2

2Gb Memory: 2x 512MB Corsair CM2X512-5400 C4 DDR2 4-4-4-12 675MHz XMS2-5402 v7.2 & 2x512MB Patriot PS2D21G667K PC2-5300 CL5

320 GB Western Digital Caviar 7200 rpm 16 MB cache SATA 3GB/s
WD Caviar SE 16 5VDC 0.65A 12VDC=0.9A WD3200KS – 00PFB0 LBA 625142448 26 jul 2006

Airlink AWLH3028 802.11g Cheap Wi-Fi PCI card

Xenarc 7” 700 TSV

Provisionally, I’m using the LG 5 ¼ DVD-RW drive (SWA 4446b), but this is temporary, it’s just for installing apps and making HD clones. I won’t need a DVD writer in the trunk, I guess.

DSATX 230W DC-DC PSU with serial controller

Case: Antec Aria NSK-1300

Accessories:
Garmin GPS 18 (I bought years ago, was unused since my other car has stock nav and I used an aftermarket Mio 380 (for sale) on this M.)

Space Navigator with these drivers.


Turtle Beach Audio Advantage Roadie 5.1 USB soundcard (optional, don’t know if I should use it)

OBDPRos OBD II Scan tool USB w/ right angle connector


I nlited an XP Professional SP3 (nLite 1.4.1), not so much to keep it small as I have plenty of space and memory to deal with XP, but to try to make it boot and run faster. I changed the boot screen to this one and I’ll later start my front end as a shell and will try to use minLogon to speed up boot times.

At first I tried to hack the connections between the AV Unit (Nav Unit with those with Navigation) and the stock 7” LCD screen. I have already installed the 4PDT relay in place to allow me to remotely switch between the stock data and my computer display. The problem is of course to emulate the RGB+sync signals the car display is expecting to get. This is the thread.

There are some products in the market that use Composite inputs as source (TV and nav to go, PAC, Gnet, AvElectronic), but although these might be good enough for DVD playing, it is far from good enough for a computer display. The stock 7” widescreen LCD has 16 bit depth color and (as I can see in my FX35 with nav) can display the small font on the navigation maps reasonably good.
We have to find a way to convert the computer’s 30KHz VGA (RGB with separate Horizontal and Vertical Sync) output into Arcade/CGA style 15KHz RGB+combined sync inputs required by the stock screen. I have tried the Australian made Converters.tv VGA to CGA Converter, with not much success. I also tried the ArcadeVGA from the Ultimarc, from Britain. It also failed to deliver.

As I noted at the last post on the thread mentioned above: “It seems that indeed my car is unique in that the display does require a rage of .4 to -.4Volts for the video signal. This also goes for the 2008 G37s, and the 2007 G35: it also requires this unique negative signal level. Idem for the 2006 G35. […] The 2005 G35, though, wants RGB signal level between 0 and .8. I also checked the 2007 FX35 service manual and, although externally the screen looks about the same, the signal levels are much more standard, 0 to 1 Volt. So the 2005 Gs and the FXs all share the same screen, but for some reason Infiniti "upgraded" the others.”

Right now I’m benchtesting Centrafuse, it looks the most staut front end out there, but it has some fatal flaws.

It seems that it is impossible to import playlists from Winamp (m3u) or Windows Media Player (.wpl). In fact, it is impossible to import any playlist at all (apart from this, but I can’t get hold of this plugin)! How so? After years of development, why this feature is not implemented beats me. One has to create their playlists in the car “by hand”! (Can you imagine navigating through 20.000+/ 150 GB files with a 7” screen?). It makes no freaking sense, IMHO, especially when one already have dozens of playlists that play in at least 3 computers and a laptop without a hitch.
Also, Centrafuse does not support HD radio (apparently it is promised for the 1.5 version, which is also long due, judging by the forum).
Streetdeck, I don’t know much, but it apparently ceased to be developed. The idea of a proprietary Bluetooth connection also scares me a little. But if it at least was available it would be a good sign, but it has been years (?) already in development. It’s a dead front end apparently.


Road Runner: What can I say, it works. I’m trying Carwings, LSXVoid 3.0 and the IPhone skins. The thing is, as far as I can tell, I have to develop my own skin just to learn how to modify the ones that really look good so that they can work right! Heh.

Right now I just can’t seem to make the traffic cam plug in to work in the BMW skin, which should be as basic as it gets. I have a lot to learn.
The problem is, my PhD is in the humanities department. I have no clue how to write Java, C++ and Visual Basic etc. I love building computers, but the last thing (besides 80' BASIC) I wrote was Assembler 6502/Z-80 some 20+ years ago. I wonder why nobody uses (32 bit) Assembly anymore …imagine an assembly front end, just for music/video file playing/GPS/data display, how fast would it be loading a 25Gb playlist? And more importantly, stable? Somebody remember the 1988 VDE word processor? You can’t beat 100% Assembly (with 100% reliability)/ end of rant.


FreeIce: super good looking, but will it grow steadily? No HD radio, no playlist import, but you can’t beat the price! So I can’t wait to see!


I am too tired to try the Frodo Front End. Am I missing something big?

First as I said above, I tried to use the stock screen to display. Since I wanted convert the VGA interface to the car's native RGBs, to no avail:

These were the best I could do with the ConverterTV thingy:



And with the ArcadeVGA:


It was lots of fun dismantling the dash, reading the service manual, and playing with the wires:



But in the end the work didn't payed off.

At first I thought about alternative places to put an aftermarket screen. The overhead sunglass holder is one alternative, but it is kind of small, and probably lots of fabrication would be involved. And it would block the rear view mirror to boot.

I thought also on top of the stock screen, maybe with some lifting mechanism when in use:






My plan was then to put a stock Xenarc 7" screen in place of the OEM screen and relocate the stock one someplace else. But where?

What about where the stock cupholders were?










And more, no fabrication, bondo, plastic soldering (I have no talent for these things) were necessary. I didn't have to try different primer/sanding techniques, nor did I have to look for color matching paint, etc. I simply dissassembled the cupholders, and using the same mouting points, I fixed the stock OEM screen there:




Since it is not touchscreen, and it is a very high quality screen, you can indeed see the display in broad daylight (It's a Hitachi panel). The problem is, of course, that you have to take your eyes off of the road to actually see it. But it is not terribly worse than many lower level screens I've seen before and, although the stock head unit radio/mp3 changer still works, the display will be used mostly to monitor the car status, like the air conditioning, tire pressure, fuel economy, etc. All these things I can do easily at the traffic lights.

I also put high density foam tape around the edges of the screen (like the ones used for insulating windows, bought at HomeDepot), so that if somebody spill liquids over the screen it does not pour into the electronics below it.

So in the end I think it was a good compromise. Of course I also lost two cup holders, and I'm still looking for aftermarket solutions. I know BMW's and European cars in general have similar problems (their in dash cup holders are often flimsy, and very expensive to repair, so I know there is a market for that), so I'm open for suggestions.

Now I had an opening for an aftermarket screen, right where the OEM screen was. That's when I ordered the Xenarc 700 TSV.

Next, I tried to figure out a way to mount the Space Navigator into my console. This is the first version. I still have all the hardware ready to put this version on the car again, it is not difficult.

As I've been doing all the time so far, I try to figure out a way to bolt on everything. I have no talent to fabricate anything really, plus, Infiniti car parts are very expensive. The stock LCD plastic shroud is almost $300.00, the whole ashtray/shiftgear assembly is around $400.00. Unless I can get my hands on ebay used parts, I won't experiment with bondo/plastic soldering with parts like these.

So here we are. First version: I got some snip set, Radio shack's project boxes, some hot glue and velvet:



This would replace the OEM stock cigarette lighter with ashtray box:



Now they're about the same size. And then I bolted the project boxes into the OEM mounting points like this:

And I fixed the Space Navigator with heavy duty velcro:





I didn't like this solution very much because:

1. The Space Nav is too heavy, 1.01 Lbs. In case of an accident, what will happen to it? I doubt the velcro is going to do much to hold it in place. I may be wrong on that, but I don't know.

2. I think that the Space Nav rested too high up there, in comparison to the shift gear assembly. I tried to mount without the base, but it would lose the "solidity" feel to it. Didn't like it. The base looks very nice anyway, it fits my shift gear assembly nicely. It is just a question of figuring out the right height. But by then, I tried to use plywood, and that's what's in the car now.

I also added a few buttons to control the computer from the cabin. They are located right below the space nav, hidden from view, on the hole besides the controls for the heated/cooled seats. They are different for tactile feedback. The light on the LCD power on/off are supposed to be on only with the monitor off. The buttons are:

1. To bypass the ACC wire to the DSATX, useful for valet parking, or to leave the computer for service, etc.

2. To turn off the monitor only, this one is disconnected right no, I'm scared of introducing noise into the image with this switch. The idea is to leave the computer running for some reason, with nobody in the car, so that I can not only save some battery but also hide the computer workings (say I'm recording with the CAM, etc).

3. Reset button.

First I had to extend the cables to run the OEM monitor from its stock location to the new placement where the stock cupholders were. First, the connector to the monitor:




Lots of soldering involved. Boy, this can take a long time. This is where the wires originally ended. Have to take care when soldering close to the dash. Protect everthing from spills, etc.

I used a 22 shielded cable, 25AWG wire I bought at fry's for 6.99. Worked wonderfully, no sign of image degradation whatsoever. This is where I also splitted the cable from the stock rear view camera.



This is so that I don't have to look down to see the rear view camera. The image is good, however:



The idea was that I would have BOTH monitors displaying the rear view image: the stock one (no reason to change anything there), AND the Xenarc. All was working well, untill I upgraded my motherboard from the ECS, VGA out only, to a Gigabyte 690 G with DVI, VGA, S-Video, etc. With this newboard, apparently, when the Xenarc 700 TSV displays the rear camera image (with the computer running), the onboard video interprets this as a disconnected monitor, and defaults to the DVI out (standard output). So after disengaging the reverse, I got a blank monitor, and then the Xenarc turns itself off. So the computer is still running, thinking there is nothing connected to the VGA. GRRR.

There is no BIOS setting that makes the VGA the new default. The DVI output is DVI-D only, so no easy way to connect the Xenarc there.

There is no settings in Windows that I know off that can remedy the situation
. Maybe its drivers settings in the windows register? It's frustrating. And I want to like this new board since it is so much more stable...and with a lot of external outputs to boot, for future expansions (rear monitors).

Here is the Xenarc connections: USB for the touchscreen, 12V from the DSATX (red and black wires) and the yellow connector with the rear view camera signal.

I bought a Antec NKS 1300 very cheap at Fry's ($65 minus $40 mail-in rebate). I figured, why not? Well, it's the smallest mATX case you can buy, but it is still too tall.

I run a 4 gauge Moster cable from the battery to the trunk.



This is the solution I found, suspended under the rear deck. I removed the stock AC power supply, put the DC-DC DSATX there, and also mounted a 120mm 3 speed Antec fan.








The advantage is that I can carry my water bottles in there, since I live in earthquake domain, California, so I always have to be prepared.

It is rock stable as it is, and it leaves plenty of room for a stroller and a golf club bag. It also leaves room for the spare and for a future subwoofer.

All in all, it works. It's not perfect, but I'm happy, my first boot was good, it works!!!

Nice install! I have a G37 with no PC yet. I am thinking I will mount the screen at the bottom center in front of the gear shift. That curved silver part is removable, so if I cut off the doored ash tray and cut slots in the side rails I should be able to have a touch screen go from the shift-boot lip up to the dash above the curved part. I was then going to use a dual-monitor set up with video-out to the stock screen (non-nav has a/v inputs).

That's the plan, I'm still waiting to get the OEM interior part that includes the shift boot, ash-tray, and that silver curved part (since I'm leasing).