Thread: 2007 Ford Fusion Carputer (version 2.0)

As fusion said just make sure it is tied off and tucked up out of the way and you will be fine . I got a bit more room under my truck and in my frame rail but still I have 2 runs of 1/0 running along my frame from the engine bay and into the back of my cab. I wrapped both runs individually in split loom and wrapped them completely in 3m Super 33+ electrical tape and made sure they were zip tied along the frame and out of the way of anything.

You should be able to run your wires along with your brake lines or fuel lines and such. I wouldn't tie the wire to the lines but should be enough mounting points and room to tuck the wire up into the undercarriage of the car.

yes, the M2-ATX has an "anti-thump" delayed amp turn on output.

Originally Posted by Minoritydan

Hey Fusion

hi

Originally Posted by Minoritydan

I'm also not sure why you need resistors and how you connected/wired them to the switch and lcd.

the override switch has nothing to do with the LCD (monitor), the override switch controls the PC.

the resistors are not required for the switch itself or the PC. they are required for the LEDs; LEDs cannot handle the car's (+12v) voltage, so the resistors are needed to lower the voltage to an acceptable level that the LED can handle.

Originally Posted by Minoritydan

Can you give me any more info on wiring up that DPDT center off switch? This is exactly what I want to do for my carPc, but I am kinda confused and not sure how to wire it all correctly.

first off, these schematics do not use true schematic switch symbols. instead, I drew them as if you were looking at the bottom of the switch (I think that makes it a little easier as it shows how each wire is physically connected to the switch). here are 3 override switch examples that should help you understand the wiring.

lets start with a simple non-LED override switch setup. this can be done with a SPDT-CO (Center Off) switch. this type of switch has 3 leads; the center lead is the 'common' lead, which will be wired to the IGN line on the M2-ATX (or any other intelligent automotive ATX PSU. the common lead will make an electrical connection to either of the other two leads depending on the position of the switch. it will never connect to both at the same time, and in the center position the common lead doesn't connect to either [outer] lead.



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now we'll move on to a single-LED override switch setup. in this example, an LED is used to indicate when the switch is in the override position (the LED will not light up when the switch is in the normal or off positions). you will need a DPDT-CO switch for this. in this type of switch there are 6 leads; the two sides are electrically independant but are controlled by a single toggle/lever. as you can see, the left side of the switch wiring is identical to the no-LED diagram/schematic above. the [electrically independent] right leads will be used to control the LED.



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now we'll move on to a dual-LED override switch setup. in this example, two separate LEDs are used. LED1 is used to indicate when the switch is on the normal position, LED2 is used to indicate when the switch is in the override position (neither LED will light up when the switch is in the off position). as you can see, the center/common lead is used as a ground connection for both LEDs.



NOTE: it doesn't matter what side of the LED the resistor is connected to, it just needs to be wired ion series.

-hopefully this answered (or at least helped) you to understand the wiring. if you still have questions, just ask

1. oops... yes, you're right that's a DPDT switch, not a SPST (I'll edit the post)

2. new switch? do you already have a switch that you were planning to use? and if so, what kind/type? depending on what you have already, you may be able to use it.

3. the 'bar' signifies the electrical connection inside the switch. in that diagram, the switch is in the 'override' position (leads #2 and #3 are electrically connected)