Very impressive. I like the idea of the power switch as it gives full control of what's going on.
I started using nLite long before I got into the carPC hobby, so I had already gone through the trial&error phase of nLite. to answer your question; no, I didn't have any issues with my carPC nLite version
when you first start using nLite, It's easy to think you can remove almost everything with a checkbox and it will still work fine. however you will quickly learn that this is not the case. you need to be careful about which components you remove because your system might require some of them to function properly (or as you already found out, some components are required for a successful installation). only remove what you are 100% sure you don't need. if you are not sure about a specific component, then google it to find out what it really does, or simply leave it alone so you won't have to worry about it.
a full install will give you the most trouble-free system, but its also bloated, hogs memory, requires more resources from your PC, and takes longer to boot up. a properly configured nLite installation can make a big difference in the performance of your system, so don't give up on it just yet
for your specific issue, it's having a problem copying a font (Tahoma Bold). this could be a result of removing the extended fonts from your install or you simply have a bad installation file.
If I'm correct it looks like you are using DFX 4.0 for your Skin.
What is your CPU usage with that?
I've had nothing but trouble up to this point, even after going through the steps to make RR perform better, its still up near 100% at times. I updated flash from Adobe's site, turned down hardware acceleration in the display settings and still have issues.
I've even reinstalled my OS to a complete XP install to see if that makes a difference, but it still seems to be a little unresponsive and slow.
Not sure where to go, maybe try to make another Nlite install, removing fewer options this time.
For my first Nlite setup I following this guide --> http://www.i64x.com/eeexp.php
my CPU usage is usually around 5%-10% with RR and winamp running. it will go up another 10% with iGuidance, firefox, or other programs running.
are you using the newest RR version? and the latest DFX4 release? what motherboard/CPU are you using?
I'm using the official RR installer off of the following link:
New OFFICIAL Road Runner Installer
(Its a brand new install, previously clean HD - so I guess that's the latest version)
Here are the steps I have taken:
I did a full XP SP2 install this time around. The first time I used an Nlite version of XP that I created.
I took a video of how laggy and how high my CPU is. All I am doing is playing a simple music file.
You can see in the video how basically on every second hand "tick" - there is a slight delay.
Again, here is what I did:
Update my video drivers from VIA's site
Install DFX 4.0
Uninstall flash and get the latest from Adobe.com using IE
Turned down hardware acceleration
Turned off iList (then turned it back on by setting Usedx=true when it had no effect)
Install DirectX 9c
The Motherboard/CPU --> http://www.logicsupply.com/products/ms_7199
Primary (OS) HD that RR is installed on --> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820220341
(I don't want to Hijack your thread. Let me know if you want me to move this/create a new thread).
With your examples above, for the "override" you are connecting the ignition lead from the power supply to a constant 12v source. In your diagram you have it hooked up to your line from the battery to the power supply , but im sure this is just for illustration sake, as surely there is too much current flowing through that line for the switch to handle?
Where did you tap into to get a constant 12v source?
/EDIT Dont worry, i think i just had a douchebag moment. I'll just tap into the +12V constant from my head unit wiring harness.
current is drawn from the power source, not forced out of it. the current that goes to the PC does not flow through the switch. the only current flowing through the switch is the small amount required to trigger the M2 and to light up the LED.
the M2's IGN line is not a main power wire, its just a remote turn on line to tell the M2 that the IGN switch is turned on. the switch I used can handle 6A which is far more current than that line will ever draw. although its not in the diagram, the line is fused with a 1/2A fuse as well.
EDIT: you're right, the diagram does not represent my actual wiring. the diagram is kept very simple so that it can be easily applied to any vehicle or any power supply. although the switch itself not in schematic form, the wiring in the diagram is. it doesn't suggest the switch wire is actually spliced to the M2ATX's power wire, it just shows that they are connected to the same power source.
in my setup, I get the 12v constant power for the override switch from a 6-circuit fuse block I added behind the monitor. the fuse block is powered by a [fused] 10awg wire connected to an unused slot in the car's power distribution center (the disto center is powered by a 2awg wire connected directly to the car battery terminal).
Used the 2 led diagram to wire up my own dpdt switch...works great. Its nice now to be able to see a bright red led to say ive left override on...dont want any flat batteries thats for sure :P
Liked your old install. The new one is even better.
I really like how everything is labeled. I really need to do that with mine.
I'm using my carputer 100%, but I still need to make it easier to use.