2007 Ford Fusion Carputer (version 2.0)

**FusionFanatic** · 11-02-2008, 05:08 PM

Thanks MoboMan,

yeah, the wire labels help out alot when you need to disconnect, repair, replace, upgrade, etc anything. it may not seem necessary at first, but if after a few months you decide to change something, it can be very aggravating when you have to trace all your wires to find out which ones you need to disconnect or tap into

you can buy thermal labelers on eBay for about $10, or you can buy some blank labels sheets at Staples, OfficeMax,etc and hand write them instead. either way it's a life saver when you want to modify your setup in the future (which in this hobby happens quite often).

**Minoritydan** · 12-14-2008, 09:16 PM

Hey Fusion.

I need help with something.

I pretty much followed your setup example cause I really liked the way it looked, and I wanted the ability to have a Hardware solution for Volume. Since you helped me out before -- I need help again.

A little background.

I have the same EQ you have mounted under my TS, and am Amp/Sub - so lots of RCA cables/ etc.

My 4 channel amp gets the remote turn on from the M2-ATX - the Sub is powered and does not have a Remote turn on - It turns on through the RCA's. Its a Blaupunkt THb 200A compact powered sub - fits under my seat.

Link
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_023THB2...tab=review#tab

Anyway, I keep blowing my Radio Fuse - so nothing powers on since there is no ignition signal sent to the M2-ATX.

The only thing that is hooked up to the radio harness is the SPDT switch example you gave me ( center off - non LED) AND the Clarion EQ. How is yours hooked up? What powers your EQ?

(A side note, I think something was backwards with the SPDT switch, because I followed your example and hooked up 1 to the Acc and 3 to 12v constant - but the label 1 on the switch was "Always On" and 3 Turned on and off with the car - not sure why that was happening.)

Can you give me any ideas or insight for why I keep blowing the radio fuse? I've blown 5 fuses so far, (installed if Saturday).

Anyway, I am pretty beat after boarding all day, but I wanted to get the ball rolling -- I'm trying to diagnose this and resolve it soon. I'll post some more info tomorrow.

Anyway, thanks again for all the help + inspiration -- I hope you don't mind me semi copying your setup.

**FusionFanatic** · 12-15-2008, 07:55 PM

hi dan,

no I don't mind you copying it at all. that's what this write up is there for (I take it as a compliment that you like it enough to copy it

).

as for your issues; it sounds like you might have a different type of switch than I do. you didn't use a lighted switch did you?

if you keep blowing fuses then you have a short in your wiring. the center switch lead is the common lead, which connects to either 1 or 2 (depending on toggle position). if you're not using any LEDs with your switch, then there should not be any ground connection on the switch. are the leads/wires well insulated to make sure they aren't shorting to ground somewhere?

can you provide a link or picture of the switch you used?

**Minoritydan** · 12-15-2008, 10:57 PM

I'm using example 1 of the 3 you sent me - its the non LED one. I don't have a ground to the switch.

I am using these quick disconnects to tap into the radio harness: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2104019

I think I definitely have a short since did not wrap the connections with electrical tape or heat shrink, so I think you are correct.

I have the 12v constant to the switch coming from the radio harness (as well as to the EQ), and the Ign/Acc from the harness going to the switch as well. Those are the only connections in the dash that could be shorting.

Should I be powering the switch and the EQ from my Distribution Block, and now the Harness? I think you said you isolated all of your PC power from your cars stock wiring.

**FusionFanatic** · 12-16-2008, 09:54 AM

yes, I isolated all of my wiring from the car's stock wiring (with the exception of a single relay connected to the factory radio harness ACC wire) but that doesn't mean that you have to do the same. I chose to do that because it protects the car's factory wiring in case there is ever any electrical issues (there shouldn't be, but I tend to be over-cautious when it comes to vehicle wiring).

You certainly need to insulate those wires/connections first. do you have a picture of the switch your using or can you provide a link to it or list a model number?

**Minoritydan** · 12-16-2008, 09:57 AM

This is the switch:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062515

SPDT Center Off.

**FusionFanatic** · 12-16-2008, 08:18 PM

hmm... the switch your using is fine. it's got to be a short in your wiring somewhere. hopefully insulating the switch leads & wires will solve your problem.

**Minoritydan** · 12-16-2008, 08:22 PM

Originally Posted by FusionFanatic

hmm... the switch your using is fine. it's got to be a short in your wiring somewhere. hopefully insulating the switch leads & wires will solve your problem.

I'm sure that's it. It shorted after I stared putting the components back in the dash. Somethings must have touched that were not supposed to.

The 95 accord has the worst options I have ever seen for mounting a radio, there is literally NOTHING to secure the EQ or TS to.

At any rate, I hope to tackle this insulation job on Saturday.

Thanks for your input Fusion!