After much more grinding and sanding, I had a setup that I was happy with. I then primed and painted the entire unit.
This is a pic of the filler strip without all the lines and words:
Here the bybyte is installed in the dash kit.
Here the kit is all primed and painted
Here is a front view of the install kit with the bybyte installed:
DC Universal Car Auto Power Adapter Charger for Laptop
3 Way 12V Car Cigarette Socket Splitter w/ 5v USB port
6' 3.5mm Stereo Headphone Cable M/M
TOYOTA SCION 87-07 HARNESS - METRA 70-1761 and the 70-1761
CAR RADIO ANTENNA UNIVERSAL EXTENSION 12 FOOT
6FT USB 2.0 A to A / M to F EXTENSION CORD
6Ft VGA HD15 M/F Extension MONITOR CABLE/CORD
3.5mm ground loop isolator
7-Port USB 2.0 Hub
I decided to keep my stock stereo. It has a cd player that will also play cd’s with mp3 songs. Also, the car came with an aux input for the stereo located on the passenger’s side of the column. I use the 3.8mm audio cable inserted into the headphone jack of my laptop to connect the pc’s audio to the car stereo. I needed both of the Metra wire harnesses. One connects to the harness in the car. The other connects directly to the stereo. By adding lengths of wires, I, in effect, made a wire harness extension. This way, I can put the stock stereo anywhere in the car. I used the ground loop isolator to decrease the noise. It was terrible. Sometimes I couldn’t hear any music. Now, cd quality sound.
Auto Power on Module
I installed the laptop auto power on module. I already removed the screen and keyboard from my lappy so I could install it under the seat of my car. In order to install this unit, I had to remove much of the plastic laptop casing in order to get at the soldering points of the power/sleep button. My lappy's power/sleep button had five soldering points, two on one side, three on the other side. I used a mulltimeter to determine which switch points I needed to use. I first removed the battery from the laptop, set the mulltimeter to beep, and touched one contact point with the black wire from the millimeter on the side of the button with only two points. Then, using the red wire from the millimeter, I touched the contact points on the other side of the button. Two points beeped right away. The third made no noise. I held both wires in place with one hand and pushed the power/sleep button. While the button was depressed, I heard the meter beep. These were the two points I needed, points 2 and 5. I then reinstalled the battery and touched the two points again with the millimeter wires without depressing the power/sleep button. The laptop powered on.
Before soldering the supplied power button bypass wires, I removed the entire switch assemble chip. This made it much easier to reach and solder. It was held in with two screws. Once the screws were removed, a light vertical pull removed the module from the motherboard.
After taping the module securely to my desk, making it much easier to work with, I began to solder the two supplied wires onto the points I located earlier. I have never soldered before, and found out very quickly that the iron is hot, and will take the skin off two of your fingers very quickly if you are not careful. Also, I found out the soldering is not as easy as some people make it look. However, after several tries and two burns, I got it done. Looks fairly good too.
I purchased a cigarette light plug from Wal-Mart and wired the power and ground from the auto power on module to the cigarette lighter plug. I connected the usb to the lappy, the cigarette lighter plug into the cig lighter power source, and turned the key. The pc booted right up. YES!!
For testing purposes, I set the lappy on the back floor and wired everything up. All the power comes from my cigarette lighter. I purchased a three port power plug that plugs into my cigarette lighter. This has three dc power plugs and a usb power port to charge cell phones or iPodsí. I purchased a car adaptor for my laptop and plugged it in. The Lilli came with the cig plug, so I plugged it in. In the last port, I plugged the auto power on module. I put the monitor in my cup holder on my dash to the left of the steering wheel. I ran all the wires under the seat and taped them to the dash so I would get tangled up trying to get in and out of the car. I purchased a ground loop isolator with 3.5mm plugs and a 6' audio cable with 3.5mm male connecters. One end I attached to the lappy's headphone port. The other end was attached to the input side of the ground loop isolator. Finally, I attached the 3.5mm connecter from the output side of the ground loop isolator into my aux input port from my stock stereo. On my car, this is located near the passenger side floor by the center console. It is used to add an mp3 player to your system. Finally, I turned the key. Presto. Everything worked well. I played with this setup for several weeks to test it out. This way, if I wanted to change something, it was very easy to remove and bring in the house. I made a lot of software changes as I went. The only hardware change I had to do was with the auto power switch. By connecting it to the sleep button, I was unable to power off by pressing the emergency power button that came with the module. So I ripped out the switch assemble chip, used the millimeter to find the connection points I needed on the power button, and re-soldered the wires. This way worked much better.
I started the process with a chopped down version of xp. One is called tiny xp found here http://ithotnews.com/index.php?s=tin...=16&submit.y=8. Another was called the beast, http://www.zoozle.org/emule-bittorre...rent,en,0.html. I have used both. To me, they both seem equally good. Tiny xp seems to load and shut down a little faster. I found that some of the features that I wanted from XP was not available with Tiny XP or the beast. So I installed a full XP Pro. I formatted the HD and partitioned it into 2 sides. I made one side big enough for the OS. I used the other for audio, video, and other software files. This way, if you need to reinstall you OS, you wonít have to reload all the other stuff.
After reading hundreds of forum posts, I went with RoadRunner. I like the looks and versatility of RoadRunner. I installed RR and did the following:
Open RR config-
Chose hide winamp- this keeps winamp behind RR.
Mute winamp on exit
Set path for winamp- This is the path to the exe file. I.E. D:\Carputer\WinAmp\
Uncheck hide taskbar- leaving it check will hide your taskbar
exit options-power off- this will shut down your pc when you exit RR
date format_ MM/DD/YYYY
Time format- HH:MM AM/PM
uncheck gestures enabled- this will disable the annoying red ball that follows your finger.
Select Close open embedded apps on exit- This will close all programs RR is running
The rest of the general is optional
Chose the path for your day and night skins. The day should be brighter, and night darker. Hereís what it will look like: D:\Carputer\RoadRunner\Skins\BMV2\
Check remember last browsed location
Music path- Enter the path to you music folder- Mine= D:\Audio\Music\
Playlist path- Enter the path to your playlist folder. Mine= D:\Audio\Music\PlayList\
Select Play on list click
Resume mode- Always- this will resume the song last heard when you restart your pc
Media player path- Enter the path to your media player classic exe file. D:\Carputer\Media Player Classic\mplayerc.exe
Select external ( I am using Streets & Trips 2008)
GPS path- enter the path to your gps exe file: D:\Carputer\Streets 2008\Streets.exe
Select reduce sound volume to XX% when saying directions. Don't put XX in. Select a % value. This will allow you to hear voice directions.
In order to get the pc to boot directly into RR without having to manual do it, I read this post http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/faq-...front-end.html. Post # 8. Its very easy to do.
Thatís all I change. Click exit, save and exit.