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Thread: 2007 Camry CarPC - Australia

  1. #51
    Low Bitrate skeet2331's Avatar
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    That is what I did for my P4 to P4 cable. I didn't see the point in paying $5 for a cable I could make in 5 mins.

    BTW the install is coming along nicely.
    Lilliput EBY701, M2-ATX, Intel 1.8 GHz, 1GB Ram, 160 GB 2.5 hard drive, Centrafuse, Garmin Mobile PC, GlobalSat BU-353.
    My 2000 Saturn SL2 Worklog

  2. #52
    Variable Bitrate
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    Jan 2006
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    Alrighty, I've run into a couple of minor issues.

    I've got an SPDT power switch hooked up to the M2-ATX. The problems:

    1) Weird behaviour: While I'm driving, I might decide to power down the system, so I press the power switch, and the PC hibernates and turns off. The LCD turns off. The fans stop spinning .... and then I hear them spinning up again and the LCD turns back on and the PC starts up again. I wait for it to start up fully, and then I press the power button again. It turns off, and stays off. It always happens like this. Is this normal behaviour? Perhaps it's an M2-ATX issue?

    2) Not a major problem: I can turn the car PC on and off without the key being in the barrel. But if turn the PC on without the key in, the amp doesn't turn on. So am I correct in saying that the M2-ATX only turns on the amp when it receives the signal from the ACC or IGN circuit? Any workaround for this? This isn't a major problem for me because like most people, I usually have my key with me when I'm in my car, so I can simply put the key in and turn it and the amp will turn on with the car PC.

  3. #53
    Constant Bitrate MindDrive's Avatar
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    try removing all of the jumpers so that its a dummy power supply.... if it still does it, then it sounds like a poor power connection supplying the pc and what is happening is that the timer is kicking on and off between cycles and the cmos is set to power on after power fail possibly?

    as far as i can remember, there is a timer circuit for the ACC to AMP wire so that there is enough time for the pc to boot, THEN the amp will kick on

  4. #54
    Variable Bitrate
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    Ok, just some updates on the abovementioned problems:

    1) Still happening... haven't got down to taking the car PC out to pull out the jumpers and test it further. Might get some time this weekend.

    2) If I turn on the PC and don't have the key in the barrel (and therefore the ignition and accessory circuits are not engaged), the PC runs as normal, but the amp doesn't turn on at all. The other day I had it running for about half an hour like this, no problem, but the amp was still off. It only turns on when the key is turned to ACC.

    There's another weird problem here: sometimes, I can turn the car PC on without the key in the barrel. But this only happens sometimes, not all the time. I'm trying to look for a pattern.

    Any ideas?

  5. #55
    Constant Bitrate MindDrive's Avatar
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    well... if you havnt put the key in the ignition for over an hour or so and you can still turn the pc on, then i would have to say either there are NO jumpers in place, or the power supply has something going on with the way that it is connected to the 12V power... try removing the ACC (white) wire from the power supply ignition connector so that just the red and the black wires are connected.... if the computer still boots up, then it is in "dumb" mode and will constantly be powered regaurdless if the pc is on

  6. #56
    Variable Bitrate
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    Jan 2006
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    I'm experiencing an issue with my remote central locking of my car. It's the standard locking system that came with my car (07 Camry). But it only happens sometimes. This is what happens: when I get out of my car and try to lock it with the remote as normal, the car doesn't respond. When looking through my window I can see the car PC hibernation. The moment the hibernation progress bar gets close to 100%, if I press the lock button, the car responds and locks. After that, it responds as normal (lock, unlock). I'm trying to work out what's going on because I'm sure I've been able to lock it sometimes whilst the car PC was hibernating. I'm wondering whether my M2-ATX is still creating a load on the ignition line whilst hibernating, and the car won't lock until the ignition circuit is free of all loads. Or perhaps my M2-ATX is introducing a voltage back into the ignition circuit? I'm considering putting a diode on that line when I get around to it ...

    I'm going to pull out my spare remote and use that for a while to see if it still happens. Any ideas, please shoot

  7. #57
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Sounds like interference from the Car PC and your locking mechanism's transmitter. Try hibernating your system with any thing that transmits unplugged. This included, BT, wireless keyboard, Wi-Fi, GPS, TPMS, and Aircard. Basically anything wireless. Then plug each device in one at a time to find the culprit. Id start with the GPS and TPMS if you have them. I have heard of that device cause issues with other things. Also, locate were the transmitter for the locking is, maybe its close to the CARPC, that would cause issues too. Ive heard of peoples screens causing interference too.

    The PSU doesn't put any load on the ignition, once you take you key out, ignition is cut, so it cant be that unless you've installed you PSU in a manner I am not aware off.
    Nirwana Project, the Android/Win 7 hybrid system!

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  8. #58
    Variable Bitrate
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    Jan 2006
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    It's been a while since I updated this worklog. There have been a couple changes to my car PC setup, namely:

    - upgraded to Centrafuse: w0w! what a world of difference.
    - installed my BU-353 USB GPS receiver: works well with Centrafuse's built-in Destinator navigation system.

    I'll post photos of the above soon. Future plans:

    - USB radio: this will make my car PC system a complete replacement for my stock audio system. Sometimes you just get sick of your own MP3 collection and want to listen to a random mix from the radio or some talkshows. FM is all that's required. HQCTi is too expensive and apparently it doesn't play very well with Centrafuse. Any other ideas?

    - Digital TV tuner: not really a priority but it would be good to have one in there. Any suggestions? Nothing too expensive, and it must play nicely with Centrafuse.

    - OBD-II connection: just to play around with a few things, log my car's stats, analyse, maybe turn my car PC into a trip computer. Not a necessity but just for fun.

    - Upgrade LCD to a transflective LCD: this won't happen any time soon unless I come across a high quality model at an affordable cost (i.e. < AUD $450). This isn't an immediate priority but I'd like to do this at some point.


    Current issue: I need to fix Bluetooth issues between Centrafuse and my phone. I think the problem is BlueSoleil because it keeps crashing whenever I pair my phone with Centrafuse. I managed to get it working ONCE on my desktop with the same Bluetooth dongle; I could transmit music to my PC and the PC could act as a speakerphone for phone calls. But it crashed later, and I could never get it to work since then. All that happens is Centrafuse sees the phone, connects to it, and then "BlueSoleil CS" crashes, and I have to restart Centrafuse to get it up and running again.

    I might try another Bluetooth dongle, but I've read up a few posts where people have had the same problem with the BlueSoleil stack crashing and they seem confident that the bug lies in the BlueSoleil stack.

    This is my Bluetooth dongle: http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp...h&form=KEYWORD

    This is the info that shows up in the Bluetooth profile when I connect it to the PC:

    Manufacturer: Cambridge Silicon Radio
    HCI Version: 2.1
    HCI Revision: 12E7
    LMP Version: 2.1
    LMP Revision: 12E7

    When Centrafuse is not running, I can send and receive files and can transmit music to the computer fine, and BlueSoleil hardly crashes. It's only when Centrafuse runs that it starts playing up more. I had no issues when I ran the dongle with the standard Microsoft/Toshiba Bluetooth stack.

  9. #59
    Newbie
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    Nov 2009
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    Awesome build MeeM. I also have an 07 camry and was wondering where you found instructions for disassembling the console and removing the radio

  10. #60
    Variable Bitrate
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    Quote Originally Posted by sinisterouge View Post
    Awesome build MeeM. I also have an 07 camry and was wondering where you found instructions for disassembling the console and removing the radio
    Thanks for the kind words

    Radio removal instructions are available here: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...radio-removal/

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