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Thread: WuNgUn PIC'S-Water cooled car PC 95% done!

  1. #51
    FLAC WuNgUn's Avatar
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    Thanks!!
    With 230,000Km onit, I'd maybe want to rebuild the bottom end first...and then there is the clutch...
    It's a daily driver right now, but I'd love to 'power it up' in the future for sure.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by WuNgUn View Post
    Thanks!!
    With 230,000Km onit, I'd maybe want to rebuild the bottom end first...and then there is the clutch...
    It's a daily driver right now, but I'd love to 'power it up' in the future for sure.
    I wouldn't worry about mileage... Just do a leak down test and if its within the factory specs, look on Focaljet or another Focus forum and look for a used JRSC or Powerworks Intercooled Eaton blower kit. The Powerworks adds a fair amount of power, high recommended!

    Modern engines just don't wear down like old designs, the Zetec is a modern design. My SRT-4 has 90+ thousand miles and has over 380+hp and the valve cover has never been off it, plus a couple of hundred 1/4 mile passes...

    If you do quite a bit of open track, you might want to look at the Procharger Intercooled kit, which makes nasty top end power (and everybody knows your supercharged..), would like kinda of funny for you to blow by a Corvette on Andretti straight...

    Again great car overall, just need a bit more umhp...

  3. #53
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    [QUOTE=WuNgUn;1308054]



    Nope...
    Running active cross overs requires that the tweeter and the driver run off their own channel/line...
    So basically, each L/R output jack on the sound card is going to a set of speakers...L is low-pass, for the driver, and R is hi-pass, for the tweeter
    So, for just the front and rear speakers, there are 8 channels needed, which CAN be done with 1 sound card, but I also need a sub out and an output for the VU meters...

    QUOTE]

    hi wungun

    i have a 3 way active setup..for my front and a sub.
    now i am nervous to know if i can drive all my channel with my sound card(xonar) because you have 2 sound card

    am i on the right track :O

  4. #54
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    OMG you all lost me with the crossover stuff...........

    So on my setup I am going to run 2 channels to each door, then from that it connects to a cross over, which then goes to the component speaker and tweeter. Is there any difference with the way it sounds running 4 channels to each door, like you have? That sounds like alot of wire, at least for me, the truck is going to have 6 component speakers! Plus the Xtreme Gamer doesnt have all those ports. I always wondered why you needed two soundcards like that, now I know.
    Nirwana Project, the Android/Win 7 hybrid system!

    1X Ainol Novo Flame Tab
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  5. #55
    FLAC WuNgUn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    OMG you all lost me with the crossover stuff...........

    So on my setup I am going to run 2 channels to each door, then from that it connects to a cross over, which then goes to the component speaker and tweeter. Is there any difference with the way it sounds running 4 channels to each door, like you have? That sounds like alot of wire, at least for me, the truck is going to have 6 component speakers! Plus the Xtreme Gamer doesnt have all those ports. I always wondered why you needed two soundcards like that, now I know.
    Well, technically, your only running 1 channel per door, if your using the passive crossovers. Basically, for example, just the full range left channel to the drivers door...
    The split to your tweeter and driver is at your crossover, so if your x-over is also in the door with the speakers, then it's not so much wiring...

    Running ACTIVE crossover, like mine, will allow much finer 'tuning' of the audio as far as levels, crossover slopes, crossover types, etc...
    With passive, your stuck with what the manufacturer gave you...
    And also, passive crossovers will eat some of the amps power as well.

  6. #56
    FLAC WuNgUn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by summer69guy View Post
    hi wungun

    i have a 3 way active setup..for my front and a sub.
    now i am nervous to know if i can drive all my channel with my sound card(xonar) because you have 2 sound card

    am i on the right track :O
    3 way is a little trickier...but you only require 7 channels (Xonar has 8), so your good there...so long as it's just the front stage and sub.

    My 2-way was a little easier, because I just used the L/R out of each jack for my hi/lo...
    For a 3-way, using AudioMulch for example, will take some creative patching...
    You can run your mids and lows from a single jack (2 jacks...one each for L/R), but combine your L/R tweets on another jack, then give your sub a jack...you could even go stereo sub

    On the amp side, it's also tricky, because you need 6 channels and a sub amp. 3 X 2 channel amps maybe?

    Just be careful when configuring and testing to make sure you have the outputs properly selected. You don't want to send 60Hz to your tweets!

  7. #57
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    hi wungun thansk for the help!it helps me a lot

    for the amplifier i have all the equipement...cdt audio sqa4100 -kicker600 and a avionix axt800.2 i know how to set them...


    MY Speaker are...6'' cdt es06....
    2'' mid tweeter cdt-es02
    1'' or a little less cdt drt 26


    but it is my first carputer audio system..i hlope all will be fine
    before i wanted to go with the drz of clarion..but i went with a pc :P>


    a question...a good quality ...for sq....3.5mm jack to 2 femelle rca? Do you know where i can find one . i dont want to add to much noise by ading this conector.(i already have ,my rca installed in my car.)

  8. #58
    Constant Bitrate roflcopter's Avatar
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    what kind of fuse holder are you using to power your neon lights and the water cooling stuff? is it just a standard 8in/8out with a bunch of 14-18gauge bundled up/soldered in it with an AGU fuse? I've been trying to come up with a way to do this and that seems reasonable. its hard to find an 8ga in with smaller out fuse block.

    looks awesome btw. i love the homemade RCA interconnects. what gauge wire did you use and did you twist them?

  9. #59
    FLAC WuNgUn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by summer69guy View Post
    hi wungun thansk for the help!it helps me a lot

    for the amplifier i have all the equipement...cdt audio sqa4100 -kicker600 and a avionix axt800.2 i know how to set them...


    MY Speaker are...6'' cdt es06....
    2'' mid tweeter cdt-es02
    1'' or a little less cdt drt 26


    but it is my first carputer audio system..i hlope all will be fine
    before i wanted to go with the drz of clarion..but i went with a pc :P>


    a question...a good quality ...for sq....3.5mm jack to 2 femelle rca? Do you know where i can find one . i dont want to add to much noise by ading this conector.(i already have ,my rca installed in my car.)
    The RCA's/3.5's I made myself, using Nakamichi solderless RCA's and Neutrik phono jacks...
    The cable is Monster THX certified...
    If you don't want to make 'em, I'm sure somebody sells them...

    I made the RCA's JUST RCA's, then used female chassis RCA's connected to the 3.5mm jacks. Makes it cleaner looking, rather than dual RCA's off each 3.5mm jack...


  10. #60
    FLAC WuNgUn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by roflcopter View Post
    what kind of fuse holder are you using to power your neon lights and the water cooling stuff? is it just a standard 8in/8out with a bunch of 14-18gauge bundled up/soldered in it with an AGU fuse? I've been trying to come up with a way to do this and that seems reasonable. its hard to find an 8ga in with smaller out fuse block.

    looks awesome btw. i love the homemade RCA interconnects. what gauge wire did you use and did you twist them?
    I use a terminal block I got from work...used in industrial electrical cabinets, etc...it takes up to 10AWG wire.

    You can see it on the left side of this pic...(not fully wired up)



    It has a main power input, from a relay, which draws from a small 8AWG block...got it on Ebay I think. It has 4 outputs...
    It's then distributed to each terminal that needs the power, i.e. water pump, lighting, HDRadio, etc...
    This way, the OPUS doesn't have to power all this stuff...

    The interconnects are just Monster Cable THX certified RCA's that I hacked up...
    They are 2 wire, shielded, and teflon insulated...not twisted that I know of.
    I'm gonna make a set of unshielded interconnects to test with later.

    The speaker wire, however, IS twisted....hand braided!!
    And with active crossover, a set to each tweeter and driver (X4)!

    Here is the tweets;


    And the drivers;


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