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Thread: 2007 Mazda 3 Install

  1. #11
    Newbie bakin113's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbear2001 View Post
    I don't really care about the trip computer... since my new carputer should have all of that and more. The only thing I'm trying to figure out is how to use my carputer to handle Sirius. As I understand it if I remove the existing radio/headunit, the A/C controls will still work with the existing display, but I will lose the trip computer (as you mentioned), plus the Sirius control. If I can duplicate the Sirius control via my carputer....

    Ahhhhh, *****, just keep going around in circles.... think I'll work on getting the software and everything going and then figure out where to mount the screen. When driving today I decided that a touchscreen where the existing nav screen exists is not the best since you have to reach up for it, so I think the existing nav screen will just stay as is.

    Thanks to you all of the forum for all of the great information.
    I know how you feel going in circles... but I am having too much fun to stop lol. I am not sure if the Sirius could be tapped into from the pc. I believe they have different units for pc and oem radio; But don't quote me on that, I don't have experience there.

    As far as the stock screen location, in my car it is quite comfortable. And 1000% in better view than dropping it below the dash level. I plan on hooking up this which will keep my back against the seat more. to press the screen tho I do have to lean forward, but its not by any means strain to push accurately.
    Hardware: Two Diamond Audio D3 10" subs, 7" Lilliput eby701, 2.7Ghz AMD 45w Sempron, Gigabyte mobo, 512MB nVidia 9800, 1GB RAM, 500 GB, M4ATX

    Software: OpenMobile

    My First Build

  2. #12
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    You know, the "reciever" for the magnet in your laptop is just a reed-relay. You can just desolder the reed relay and solder a wire there, then there is no magnet there can go misplaced, and give you problems :-)

  3. #13
    Newbie bakin113's Avatar
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    good to know.. just short it? no resistors or anything?
    Hardware: Two Diamond Audio D3 10" subs, 7" Lilliput eby701, 2.7Ghz AMD 45w Sempron, Gigabyte mobo, 512MB nVidia 9800, 1GB RAM, 500 GB, M4ATX

    Software: OpenMobile

    My First Build

  4. #14
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    Yeah because a relay is a essentially an electromechanical switch, so it lets current flow through it when it closes. By soldering a wire in its place, you're making it permanently closed, thereby completing the circuit.

  5. #15
    Newbie bakin113's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MeeM View Post
    Yeah because a relay is a essentially an electromechanical switch, so it lets current flow through it when it closes. By soldering a wire in its place, you're making it permanently closed, thereby completing the circuit.
    Good to know, Thanks guys!
    Hardware: Two Diamond Audio D3 10" subs, 7" Lilliput eby701, 2.7Ghz AMD 45w Sempron, Gigabyte mobo, 512MB nVidia 9800, 1GB RAM, 500 GB, M4ATX

    Software: OpenMobile

    My First Build

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by double0h View Post
    Why don't you just cut the plug off and wire it in? Maybe even use the power from the back of the lighter socket.
    http://www.o-digital.com/wholesale-p...1-1-88388.html

    I bought one from Advance Auto for like $7.

    If I were you I would wire one of these to the back of the lighter socket as to preserve the aesthetic and utility of an empty socket on the outside. Also you save yourself from cutting the lillyput cable. I actually soldered one of these on to my P2140's secondary line for the screen.

    Just my 2 cents, sorry if I"m late, but I wanted to actually try to give back to the wealth of knowledge around here.

  7. #17
    Newbie bakin113's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emeka View Post
    http://www.o-digital.com/wholesale-p...1-1-88388.html

    I bought one from Advance Auto for like $7.

    If I were you I would wire one of these to the back of the lighter socket as to preserve the aesthetic and utility of an empty socket on the outside. Also you save yourself from cutting the lillyput cable. I actually soldered one of these on to my P2140's secondary line for the screen.

    Just my 2 cents, sorry if I"m late, but I wanted to actually try to give back to the wealth of knowledge around here.

    hmm... that's pretty neat. thank you for the input!! I did get around to it a couple days ago tho.. I need to update the pictures. However i went to radio shack and got a small fuse holder for about 2 bucks.. took the fuse out of the socket adapter and dropped it in.. soldered the fuse holder in line on the positive wire, and soldered it directly to the back of the original cigarette lighter socket. It works like a charm..

    Also, I replace the inverter in the picture, It wasn't strong enough when the laptop needed to charge and run[always], it was only strong enough when the battery was full.. for less than$20 delivered i got a 400w/ 220w continuous inverter.. sits under the seat, next to the computer
    Hardware: Two Diamond Audio D3 10" subs, 7" Lilliput eby701, 2.7Ghz AMD 45w Sempron, Gigabyte mobo, 512MB nVidia 9800, 1GB RAM, 500 GB, M4ATX

    Software: OpenMobile

    My First Build

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