Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: 2002 Toyota 4runner CarPC

  1. #1
    Newbie Exstatica's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    12

    2002 Toyota 4runner CarPC

    Presenting the WhoreRunner

    I've finally got this PC almost to where I want....

    Old Setup:
    Alpine Deck single din
    Rockford amp, and subs


    WhoreRunner Specs:

    Hardware:
    Double DIN Lilliput 669GL-70NP/C/T - Monitor
    Dual Atom 330 Zotac ION - CarPC
    M2-ATX 160w PSU
    Optimum Yellow Top Battery
    ODB II USB ELM323 - ODB Reader
    MP3Car BoomzBox - HD Radio
    BU-252 - USB GPS Reciever
    Corsair 60GB SSD
    2 Powered USB Hub
    Yubikey RFID (I'll explain more later)
    External Omni direction WIFI antenna
    Misc stuff: Griffin Powermate, USB slot loading dvd, 500gb laptop drive (in external case), Proclip Holster for Evo4G

    Software:
    Windows 7 64bit
    Centrafuse
    Truecrypt (Both primary OS, and External USB are fully encrypted)
    Android Phone (Evo4G)

    Details:
    When I first get in my car I put my phone in the charger. This starts bluetooth, and wifi hotspot on my phone
    Then when I start the car 1 or 2 things may happen.

    Less than 2 hours since last restart:
    System returns from sleep and continues where it left off.

    More than 2 hours or fresh boot.
    System asks for Decrypt password. I have a usb port that I put my Yubikey in and touch the little button, thats my 32bit random password. Its required once more when windows loads, however I might do away with that. It also auto mounts my encrypted usb drive which contains music, movies, and other things I want to load and go.


    Diagram:


    Install Photos:

































    Logitech diNova Mini:
    Perfect for the CarPC, a little pricey but battery lasts months, and is much better than a keyboard and mouse



    Yubikey:

    There are two ways a Yubikey can work. You can either do 2 way authentication which for this situation would be bad since you really don't have anything to auth against.
    You can however make it so it generates a random password. I found 32bits were just long enough but not too long for truecrypt and windows
    You put this in a usb port and when it lights up you touch the contacts, it outputs the 32bit password. and decrypts the OS.

    Functionality and Quirks:
    The CarPC works great. Realtek just updated their drivers so now I have 5.1 sound without the center. Both fronts act as a center channel. and it fills the surround speakers correctly now.

    I still have a power issue. Its not really a problem when I start the car. Its a problem when I shut the car off. Since it has its own feed to the battery it shouldn't just turn off when I turn the car off. It seems to happen about 1 out of 5 times or so.

    My music library is way to big for Centrafuse to handle. Its decent, but it needs skip to letters and a better interface. Maybe an option to load the database into memory, it can't be more than a few hundred megs. I feel like this 4 gigs of memory is a waste



    Things to finish:
    reroute usb cables so they are clean
    get a better gps adapter as this one looses lock all the time
    maybe get a new psu


    Wish list:
    USB RFID reader so I don't have to insert the Yubikey anymore
    Additional Monitors for other zones
    Move the mic to be around the phone holster.
    Remote start

  2. #2
    Newbie Exstatica's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    12
    Reserved

  3. #3
    Newbie Exstatica's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    12
    Reserved for future use.

  4. #4
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Elsewhere
    Posts
    13,950
    SOYP is for completed projects.

    I think for GPS, you mean the BU-353. I'm not aware of a BU-252.

    Why would you want the NuLOOQ and a Powermate? They both serve the same function. Unless that's just for experimentation.
    Honestly, if you have a touchscreen (which you specc'd), a control knob like that really isn't necessary.

    It looks like you've got the basics figured out, save for the PSU. You didn't specify anything.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

  5. #5
    Variable Bitrate
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    MD
    Posts
    238
    Looks like you're on the right track. You've got all the basics covered and thinking about the future (always helps).

    I did my install in a 2000 4Runner. I bought a Xenarc 7" and it fit very well into the double din space. It required some dremel work to the car, but it didn't require any custom fabrication. The Xenarc basically sits in the double din space, I snap the center console back into place, and it fits flush over the screen. The screen sits in place and never moves. The downside for me is it doesn't look professional because you can see the screen is not molded into the console (cannot tell the difference at night). I'm thinking the same situation will apply to you should you go that route.

  6. #6
    Newbie Exstatica's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    12
    The power mate seems like it can only control one fuction, either volume or moving tracks up and down.

    the NuLOOQ looks like it can do way more, and doesn't have a bright blue annoying light. But i want to try them both.

    I added the power supply.

    Matt, thanks for the feedback, Hopefully it fits and just looks good, If I have to mold a new one I can.

    One thing I do have an issue with. Since I have an acc wire to turn the computer on and off, I need to control the amps. I've seen where I can use a transister to do it. But what about the antenna? Its a power antenna, whats the best way to control that? a Relay? What kind? and where is the best place to get it?

    Thanks

  7. #7
    Variable Bitrate
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    MD
    Posts
    238
    Quote Originally Posted by Exstatica View Post
    Matt, thanks for the feedback, Hopefully it fits and just looks good, If I have to mold a new one I can.
    Sounds good. That's the approach I took. I was happy enough with the look (in the day time) and if I needed to, I would try molding it once I got sick of the look.

    Quote Originally Posted by Exstatica View Post
    Since I have an acc wire to turn the computer on and off, I need to control the amps. I've seen where I can use a transister to do it. But what about the antenna? Its a power antenna, whats the best way to control that? a Relay? What kind? and where is the best place to get it?
    The M2-ATX has an amp remote turn-on feature. This is called "J6" in the M2-ATX manual. The M2-ATX will send a signal to J6 after it receives power itself. When a wire runs from J6 to the amp, the amp will turn on after receiving this signal.

    I am not too sure about the power antenna because I didn't use it after going to a carPC. This thread my help you. I'm very interested in the solution. I do not believe it will be difficult. Doesn't the BoomzBox have an input for car antenna's?

  8. #8
    Newbie Exstatica's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    12
    I'm concerned that the remote turn on won't be enough for 2 amps, I guess I'll have to test it and try.

    Last night I got the PC up and running on 64bit windows 7, so far I've solved all of my driver issues, GPS, bluetooth, and CF all work together like they are suppose to, along with the navigation.

    Navigation kind of sucks, Seems so old, its not innovative at all. You'd think with a computer you could have something pretty awesome.

    I have not tested the HD radio yet, but I'm going to assume its just going to work. If not I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

    It boots really quickly, I haven't used the m2 yet, because I don't have an external DC power source I can use.

    seems quick, the CF interface is kind of slow. Is that normal with it? Just doesn't seem to have fluid animations. I turned them off, but its still a little laggy.

    the other concern I have is the length of the USB runs.

    I have a 4 port powered hub, this is how I was going to break it up

    Port 1: USB Hard drive
    Port 2: Unpowered USB Hub
    Port 3: USB Port - Phone Charging (flush mounted jack)
    Port 4: USB Port - Phone/CD-rom/Misc (flush mounted jack)


    The 4 port unpowered hub is assigned as follows.

    Port 1: HD Radio
    Port 2: LCD Touchscreen
    Port 3: Bluetooth Adapter
    Port 4: Blank

    The question is, should i just run separate wires for the monitor, and the radio? Do you think I'd have a bandwidth issue with the a HD radio, hard drive, Bluetooth, and lcd panel running on the same cable?

    Should I just run home runs for the LCD, and HD radio?

  9. #9
    Variable Bitrate
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    MD
    Posts
    238
    Quote Originally Posted by Exstatica View Post
    I'm concerned that the remote turn on won't be enough for 2 amps, I guess I'll have to test it and try.
    Ahhh I see. Sorry, didn't mean to insult your intelligence. The remote turn-on draws very little power. It shouldn't be a problem at all, even for 2 amps.

    Quote Originally Posted by Exstatica View Post
    Navigation kind of sucks, Seems so old, its not innovative at all. You'd think with a computer you could have something pretty awesome.
    I assume you're using the navigation software bundled into Centrafuse 3? If so, I heard similar complaints from other people. You still have the option of installing different GPS software and embedding that into CentraFuse.

    Quote Originally Posted by Exstatica View Post
    seems quick, the CF interface is kind of slow. Is that normal with it? Just doesn't seem to have fluid animations. I turned them off, but its still a little laggy.
    I'm dying to get an SSD for every single desktop I have. Your boot times must be great. There are certain tweaks you can do to systems with SSD's that may help you. Link.

    The sluggish performance of Centrafuse might be a limitation of your mobo's graphics or the amount of RAM you have. Or maybe even Windows 64-bit. I'm not sure. I doubt it's the mobo because (I think) many people have had positive experiences with Centrafuse and the Zotac Ion. This is from memory, but I think Centrafuse has two options for turning off fancy graphics. When you're in the Settings menu of Centrafuse, you may need to turn on Advanced Settings to see these options and disable them. But still, the advanced graphics is a nice touch and it would be better if everything worked as intended.

    Quote Originally Posted by Exstatica View Post
    The question is, should i just run separate wires for the monitor, and the radio? Do you think I'd have a bandwidth issue with the a HD radio, hard drive, Bluetooth, and lcd panel running on the same cable?

    Should I just run home runs for the LCD, and HD radio?
    USB can be a bit tricky in terms of Windows hibernating/suspending/other situations. Sometimes USB devices will not work properly. My best advice is trial and error. If a USB device is not working properly then try switching the ports it's connected to, or even connecting it to the mobo. Or switching to the powered hub and vice-versa. One thing I would do is connect the more power-requiring peripherals to the actual mobo rather than the hub. I would definitely do that for the Touchscreen. The flush mounted jacks in your console should be fine for the non-powered hub, but again, it depends what you connect there.

    As for running the lines, I would try to minimize the distance and the amount of wires. This also depends on where the carPC will be located. But for example:
    -If you have a ton of USB wires running from the center dash to the trunk, then it would be better to have, at the very least, the hub(s) located near the center dash. This way, you have one USB (or two) USB wires running to the carPC which is the for the hub(s) rather than all the individual peripherals. You'll still have a ton of wires going to the actual hub(s), but he lengths will be reduced significantly.
    -Another option would be to have the hub(s) and carPC located near the center console (there's some space under the driver's seat for a carPC depending on the pc case). This way you have even shorter runs for the hubs.

    But this all depends on what you want to do and is completely your decision. I think running more lines, and longer lengths of cable may introduce more problems. One last thing, if your USB peripherals are acting strange/not working properly then it could be the M2-ATX is not providing enough juice. If so, there's a USB hub product available in the mp3car store that is powered through the car battery rather than the carPC thus bypassing the M2-ATX. This power is switched and will turn the hub on/off with the car (just like if the hub was powered through the carPC). I could not find the link but give the store site a search if you run into this situation. This is just an FYI in case you run into problems later.

  10. #10
    Newbie Exstatica's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    12
    So I've almost completed my CarPC install. However before I upload the photos and a more detailed work log, I have two issues.


    1. In the Realtek audio, I can set 5.1 audio, I test it, and it works on all 4 speakers and the Sub, however when Audio is played its only in the front two. I'm not sure how to force it over all of them. I tried using Audio fill, it didn't help, so I'm gonna try a firmware upgrade, but we'll see how it goes. Worse case I get a new audio card.

    2. If I have the car in ACC mode and I'm using the computer, then I go to start the car and the system reboots. All of my power feeds are dedicated, the only things connected to ignition are the USB hubs, and the car pc.

    Any suggestions? So far its great, I the last thing I need to fix is the Power antenna, i'm not sure how I want to do it. Because I'd like it to be semi automatic, so I might use a relay with the ignition.

    cheers

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. any one have 1998 toyota 4runner wireing diagram
    By dishpro1125 in forum General Hardware Discussion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 06-27-2011, 09:53 AM
  2. 2002 Toyota Highlander Build
    By joelikefire in forum Newbie - Proposed setup
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-01-2010, 04:29 PM
  3. 98 toyota 4runner wiring diagram
    By No_Bass in forum Car Audio
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-03-2010, 12:40 PM
  4. Toyota Wish CarPC Install
    By Cycfari in forum Show off your project
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12-26-2009, 07:37 PM
  5. Replies: 17
    Last Post: 07-27-2007, 06:05 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •