Thread: 2002 Volvo S60 Super Connected Car PC

Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

For the KVMPs, I am going by whats on the adapter because the device does not list it. I assumed it was accurate because the KVMP has a KVM (the multiplexing circuit your talking about) with an added USB Hub with it.

A USB hub in and of itself uses (on average) a maximum of 100mA. Of course, you need to factor in the load.

Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

Its how I allow two computers to share one touchscreen, its the only KVM that seems to do this. I tried to have the PC power it, but when I turned on the PC, it didn't play nice at all. Connected to the KVMPs are Mini-Pac controllers (emulates the keystrokes to switch the KVMP from PC to PC), then touch screens. I think the touch screens get their power from the screen itself, but I'm not sure because I remember that when I had shut the screen off one time, I could still hear the touchscreen beep when I pushed it. So that would mean its powered by the USB port?

I doubt a touch screen draws much at all from the USB port, but it would make sense to power the overlay over USB so they don't have to spend money on an internal 5 volt regulator and deal with the added heat/circuity complcations.

Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

Also you didn't answer (or I didn't see it) what you use to keep your car connected to the internet. Basically I would love my car to be always connected, but paying $60.00 a month is a stretch for me, especially since my car is more multi-media based then connected car based. I see that millenicom has a $39.99 WiMax plan, but WiMax is so limited in my area right now, and it does not have 3G fall back.

Sorry about that, I keep needing to repost due to the forum being someone broken. Yes, I'm paying 60 bucks for the verizon 3g plan right now. But that's going to change when the contract is up.
Right now:
I have the sheeva plug running PPPD in a persistent mode top maintain the 3g connection and a script that pings google.com every 2 minutes to keep verizon from dropping the connection.
I have the wonderful linux iptables doing some work as a gateway from the ethernet port to the 3g modem. Works perfectly, 100% reliable.

To save money I plan to get rid of the 3g plan and add an android phone to my mother's family plan and since she's a teacher in MA she gets a 15% discount. $9.99 to add a phone, $30.000 for data... $40 x .85 = $35/month. I'll likely root the phone and do some networking magic to turn it into a decent internet connection with enough IPs to go around. I may even just attach it to the SheevaPlug and have the plug dial it as a modem...

I cant wait to see what you come up with. People think I'm crazy for focusing so much on Multi-Zone, but I think your equally crazy for focusing so much on constant connectivity.

Awesome! Simply awesome!

I am looking into one of those yellow top Optima batteries. So I see you have yours mounted in your trunk. Have you had to recharge yet? or how do you manage the power for your always on accessories?

I'm just trying to understand things that I need to consider. I'm using a tablet as my carpc solution and while I have not had to worry about charging but I may consider integrating some always on solutions. For example, I have a bluetooth device connected in my car but powers on/off with the car. There is a delay for it to be connectible with my tablet after it powers on. I want to have it always on so that I will have instant connectivity with my tablet. Suggestions?

I think I answered my own question and will probably look into getting a smart charger designed to work with the AGM batteries.

Hey hexxamillion,

I hadn't been to the forum in a while so I wasn't getting email notifications! Funny thing too is that I'm about to make a post in my new work log about power in my new install.

Anyway for charging, I actually had a fairly complicated system in place for this install.

The always-on accessories were attached to a tiny alarm-system battery to mitigate voltage fluctuation/power source switching.
The power to that battery came through a diode. On the other side of the diode was a relay that switched between getting power from my blue-top Optima and a 13 volt power supply.
The blue top optima was charged by a 25 amp charger.
So when you plugged in the car, the relay would make the electronics run off the 13 volt psu, and would charge the optima battery.
Otherwise "smart chargers" would overcharge the optima falsely thinking it was always undercharged and this also improved charge time.

Great insight. Thanks! Lets me know what I need.

««« Sent from my ultimate Galaxy Tab using tapatalk ...and I'm probably in my car : ) »»»

PaulF, do you have current readings for individual components of your setup? Is this your "new" worklog?

Originally Posted by tripzero

PaulF, do you have current readings for individual components of your setup? Is this your "new" worklog?

This is my most recent worklog. I'm pretty bad at keeping worklogs up to date though. What the end result of this project was:

-FitPC2
--Only computer
--Around 8 watts
--windows 7
--centrafuse
--120gb SSD
--standalone C# & IronPython application for controlling the fusion brain V4
--USB 3G modem
--Web server in the C# app
--around 8 watts
-A pretty standard lilliput HDMI touch screen
-30 watt solar panel mounted on roof

This was a complete failure for an always-on system without charging. I'm in Boston now, so I can't just plug my car in -- hence the solar panel. So during the summer I would park on the roof of my parking garage. Battery would be flat dead in 3 days.

I'm about to make a new worklog for my latest and greatest system which is microcontroller based with GSM/GPRS connectivity. I'm staring at a multimeter that says 44.6mA right now @~12volts - and that's without any power optimization.