Sorry, wasn't thinking straight when I wrote that, the nano does not power the monitor. The monitor needs 8V. Since the USB DC-DC can output 24+V, cant' I split the out to feed both? Or will I need to go with the overkill? How much V does the nfano need? I've searched for specs and can't find it.
Yeah what nivanov said.
Nano needs 19V monitor needs 12V and comes with it's own 12V filter. Not sure it will survive cranking but will make sure it can handle car voltages.
But no you can't split voltages you need a form of transformer or another method to change a voltage.
Your right, I was looking at 8W thinking V. Why did you cut off the filter...couldn't you have cut after the filter…why did you find it unnecessary...isn't it supposed to filter out everything above 12V? How long have you been running it connected directly to the ACC line?
No he cut off before the filter to use it, just cut off the cigarette lighter plug as for a long term setup it will be unreliable.
Using proper connections will be far better so you cut off the cigarette lighter plug rewire and then use the filter and plug on the other end to connect to the monitor.
When I was using my DCDC-USB, I used a splitter on the molex plug that came off the motherboard and used one end to power the monitor and the other to power my sata hard drive. Other than supplying the monitor with filtered and regulated 12V, it also meant that the monitor was only powered while the computer was on.
1999 Mercury Grand Marquis GS with: ASRock E350M1 w/4GB RAM, 80GB Intel SSD, Opus DCX3.120, Visteon HD Radio + HDR-USB, PL-18N wifi, OBDLink Scan Tool, BTA6210 BT, BU-353, Win 7 Ultimate, CF 4.0, Alpine MRP-F240 + MRP-T220, RF Punch 1572s, Kicker 8" Comp.
I've been running my monitor off ACC through the filter ever since I installed my car pc. If you think about it, it's not any different than running it from a cigarette adapter. It's been working fine so far.
Unfortunately, those nettops don't have standard molex connectors coming off them - they are very self-contained (a good thing and a bad thing, when it comes to using them as car pc's).
I'm almost certainly going with the DC-DC, but a couple questions.
1/ Since the closest voltage output would either be either 18 or 24 volts, which should I set it to if the voltage required by the nano is 19V.
2/ Back to if I can split the output between the nano and monitor. If I set the output to 18 or 24V to feed the nano, because I have the filter on the monitor, that means that I will be ok splitting the output to the monitor right?
18V might not be enough to power it and 24 might be enough to fry it.. Guess you just have to try probably starting with the lowest..
As for the monitor it is designed to filter car voltages IE 10-14V again it might not like 18-24 as that is a fair bit higher than it would expect..
software that comes with it. I have my nettop powered with 18V (it requires 19V) and it's running just fine.
2. You don't need to use DCDC-USB for the monitor at all. Just hook it up to the ACC circuit. ACC provides unregulated 12V line and the filter takes care of stabilizing it. The filter is only capable of handling 11-14V or so, so you definitely don't want to power it with the 19V you are going to give to nano. DCDC-USB has an AUX port that provides unregulated input voltage, but whether the port is powered or not can be controlled from within DCDC-USB software. I had my monitor hooked up to that port. I set it to turn on the port 3 seconds after the ignition - after that, most of the fluctuations on ACC line are gone, so the monitor isn't going to be stressed too much. It's been working fine so far.