Thread: All-in-one BlackBox install - Toyota Yaris 2007 sedan

If that brick is the one that came with the pc (ac power plug on one side, 19v output on the other) then you probably want to cut it off between the brick and the pc, since you no longer need the brick, as you will be powering the pc with dc voltage directly.

As for the cig lighter outlet, let this image speak for itself.



Connect directly to your battery through a properly sized fuse. Do not use your cig lighter outlet for powering a pc, even a small one. You have been warned

Credit, as always, to 2k1Toaster for that image.

Wow some warning that is.
couldn't have put it better myself.
LOL

So thats what that brick was for, always wondered, so off with the brick. Ok, that fire is for the cigarette lighter, does the same thing aPply to the dedicated power outlets that's meant to power electrical equipment through dc? If so why. Just trying to understand because the outlets have a fuse and the regulator has a fuse, both fuses more amps than the pc will draw. Just looking for some education.
Thanks

Manufacturers habitually undersize their wire for cig lighters to save money. Pull close to 15A off your 15A cig lighter circuit, and see if the socket doesn't get hotter than hell. I know on my vehicles, they do. (I melted the socket on my 1993 Ford Escort that way. 10A fuse, manufacturer rating, and it still melted the socket) Also, in my car manual it says that the cig lighter socket is only for the cig lighter. Probably to cover their asses if someones car catches on fire.

Power points, I'm not entirely sure... but I wouldn't trust it anyway. Run a dedicated wire from your battery and you keep the power point if you need to charge your cell phone, or a friends ipad.

Champak, why are you even using the brick? I thought you were going to get DCDC-USB or Opus or something? The brick converts 120V AC to 19V DC - there's no AC in your car, just unregulated DC. You need to hook up your automotive power supply to BATT/IGN/GND, and use its output to power your computer.

No, I was making sure I didn't need it, I needed to know where to cut. However, this whole battery and ignition thing has me a little frustrated because I thought all I was going to do was splice into a 12 volt. Didn't want to drill any wholes to the engine and I have no idea where the ignition wire is, and everyone I've asked cant seem to give me an answer.

Ok, I'll be doing everything tonight, one last thing, I understand when I turn on the car it provides the regulator with power, but how exactly does the computer turn on without me pressing the button? Do I have to solder the power cable to something in the computer bypassing the on button, or is there something in the bios for this. Sorry I'm sure this has been asked already, but I'm finishing up work and unable to search right now, thanks.

I forget which board you are using but it should have a few header pins which the power button connects to. Take the power button off these and then connect a similar header from the psu to them. When the PSU senses that you have turned on the car it shorts the headers the same as the button push would do.

The zotac's power button is soldered to the board, so there is no disconnecting it. There are jumpers on it though, I'm just not sure if I should attach anything carrying power to them. The jumper looks like the image below. I believe...but have no idea...that the one that says "SW" would be the one, but again, unsure. If that is the jumper and i attach the leads to it, will it cause a conflict witht he button still attached?
I'm using the DC-DC USB, there is a jumper that says PSW, is that the one I should use...the thing didn't come with instructions?

EDIT: I found a few other jumpers, but they are not labled.