Ah right sorry my memory not working due to new years last night and all :p
I do know what you are talking about, I already pulled mine down to inspect the headers and contacted zotac to try to get more info due to the poor labelling and no manual.
Bottom left will be hdd led as labelled right 3 will be reset swich, then two up the top will be power LED and two will be power switch. No current will be applied to the switch pins, only that they will be shorted by the switch / PSU quickly to turn it on or off.
So all of the standard on off pins are on the right as you probably know, the far left bank I am 80% confident is audio headers which is the main one I was chasing Zotac about..
Will try to find out more info though.
Ok so I pulled up the manual of another zotac fusion board, not guaranteed to be the same but half of it matches up and they are pretty standard so I suspect this will tell you what the rest are..
I suspect you should be able to short the two power pins and you would probably get it turn on or off :)
I sent zotac an email:
Hi I'm trying to figure out the jumpers on the board of the Zotac AD10 so I can attach a jumper wire to it and bypass the power on button. Could you tell me which header/jumper it is supposed to be? And/Or send me a labled diagram of all the headers/jumper?
This is what I got back:
The AD10 has no jumper or header for power up. You need turn on the PC through the power button.
Also for the dcdc regulator:
1/ it has two 12v and and two ground wires coming out the other end, I just use one set and splice it to go to the computer right? If I want, I can use the other one to go to something else, IF the other thing accepts 19v right?
2/ As far as the jumpers go, do I have to leave them empty in order to use the software aspect of the regulator, or can I go ahead and set them just to get started and then configure the software as I see fit whenever I want?
3/ Where can I find the state led jumper layout?
To power it on, find the two contacts that get shorted when the power button is pressed. Those are the contacts that need to be hooked up to the power supply trigger - just think of them as jumpers.
Yeah, I thought about that, but I really don't want to mess with the internal components of the zotac at this point. BUT, I did find a way to boot up on power being provided, sooooo, let's take this to your original thread now.
Anyone else, I'm still looking for the answers in my previous post if anyone knows. Thanks.
Originally Posted by Champak
You might have better luck starting your own thread, rather than posting your questions in my completed project thread. Not that I mind, but your posts aren't gonna get as much exposure as a new thread would :)
looks awesome, i'd a carpc back in 2003-05 when I was in college in my '92 acura vigor. I sold the car after I got a job and moved on. Now, my fingers are itching for a carpc build :)
your setup is exactly what I wanted back then, but of course there's it wasn't possible to have a double din enclosure with everything crammed inside lol. I'd a lilliput touchscreen with vga/usb wires running to the trunk with a huge amplifier (the one you use at home) yeah, totally ghetto (i later installed a regular car amp) and a compaq laptop motherboard... when I sold the car I removed the carpc for my next car which never happened :(
I'm still not sure if I'm gonna rip apart my nook color or htc flyer for this project or go the carpc way like yours. I'm planning to reuse my old lilliput screen - will it turn ON after 5 years of sitting in the closet? not sure and a motherboard ripped out from a foxconn nt-510 nettop that's been sitting in the closet unused.
Anyway, coming to the point:
what is that circular thingy in the third picture?
also, which enclosure is it? this or this?
I'm thinking of getting the clarion equalizer before connecting it to the amp. just curious, is it not necessary? are you using windows based software eqalizer?
thanks and sorry for the ramble!!!
Good luck! After I completed my build, Zotac came out with tiny All-in-one PCs that would be perfect for this - I think they have the exact footprint as my unit, except for they are way more powerful and readily available. They also have onboard headers for all kind of stuff, so powering it one shouldn't be as much of a hassle as with mine.
Originally Posted by minghi
I'm now having doubts if the nano itx will fit in the miata, think I'll pull the head unit out just to be safe. thank you for the info and hopefully mine will look as good as yours once done :)
I agree with the others. I love how clean the installation is. I, myself, am very messy when it comes to custom anything. I'm not very picky, though, so it's all good. haha