'97 Civic DX 2dr ~ Turtlegrip's NeuroPod -MicroATX Slim-
Hello and Greetings,
My name will be Turtlegrip and this is a post to show you my 'CarPC' that I built for my 1997 Honda Civic DX Coupe. I decided to start this project because I love my car and I love computers... So I guess I will just get to the point and give you some specs...
Gigabyte Motherboard, older and dont remember exact model
Pentium 4 Dual Core @ 2.8GHz
1G RAM (1333) x2
Patriot 60GB SSD
TP-Link WiFi USB
420 watt Micro ATX PSU
Rosewell MicroATX Slim Case\
TFT LCD 7" LED Backlight
6" Acoustic Speakers x2
6"x9" 3-way Alpine SPJ-69C3 x2
12" Rockford Punch x2
Sony xPlod 600 watt 4 channel Amplifier
Performance Tenikue 1000 watt 2 channel Amplifier
Interstate Basic Battery
Optima Blue D31
BOSS 2-Farad Capacitor x2
Cobra 800 watt Inverter
ANL 150A Fuse x2
1/0 Gauge Wiring and 4 Gauge Wiring
Technically I am not entirely done, I need a high output alternator...
Here is my project in chronological order, I kept a "work log" on another forum...
Anyway, long story short, I upgraded my 97 Civic's heater core/blower, dash, climate control to a 99-00 Civic model:
And everything is mounted in the trunk, eventually I will move the amplifiers and inverter to the back of the rear seats, and make panels over the PC and battery, but that will but cosmetics in the future (I know it is pretty sloppy right now):
Here is also a picture of the switches, (not my kill switches lol), the red button is the PC power with a green LED as the power light, then the left switch is the amplifier power and there is one just like it on the right that powers the inverter, it just is not in right this moment:
While I did this I also painted the interior black and refabriced the headliner and visors black, got new floor mats and plan on getting del sol seats.
To break down the way power is run: Parallel with the engine battery is the Optima Blue Top D31-M, both being grounded to the chassis, right before the 1/0 gauge cable leaves the engine battery is gots to a 150A ANL fuse then to a PAC-500 Isolator, the wire then runs through the firewall, through the car, into the trunk where I have mounted the Optima. From the Optima the 1/0 gauge starts anew and runs directly to another 150A ANL fuse and then to a 1/0-4 gauge 5-way Distribution block. From the Distribution block then runs out 4 4 gauge wires, 1 to the inverter, 1 to each amplifier and 1 is split to the capacitors. The computer and monitor are powered from the 2 AC slots from the inverter.
The computer has a USB splitter in the trunk to make 1 port run the WiFi adapter and Bluetooth. The computer then runs 1 VGA and 3 USB cables to the front of the car, there the VGA and 1 USB go to the 7" touch screen mounted in the dash, another USB goes to the ODBII-USB module, the last USB is free to be split for flash drives and what not. I had a sound card but it was causing more trouble than it was worth, so for now I have on board sound running to a 3.5mm Stereo split, then each stereo is split into RCA cables, 1 RCA pair runs to the rear 3-way speaker input on the sony amplifier, while the other runs to the sub woofer input on the other amplifier, the sub amplifier have an pair of RCA outs on it, so those run to the front speakers RCA input on the sony amplifier. A little confusing but it sounds fine and works until I can one day find a suitable low profile sound card.
Software wise, I use Project64 and play super smash brothers haha. Then I have windows 7 running and use media player classic for videos, while I have been using Centrafuse for music and everything else (currently on the free trail version, I will end up buying the real thing once this runs out). Also using a free ODBII reader until I can afford PCM scan, or at least just DashXL. Ill try to get a video up of everything running soon...
Similar setup, facing issues
I have a 99 honda civic and am running a very similar setup for my carputer. I have a question for you, how many watts (RMS) are you pushing through the whole system and are you using the stock alternator? I am asking this because I am having power issues where the power inverter is shutting off and refusing to supply power but then will randomly turn back on while driving. I am trying to figure out if the issue is the inverter for my alternator. Based on my battery dying last week (its only about 3 months old) and having odd starting issues, I am thinking that my alternator is toast. This weekend I am planning on swapping out the alternator for one i picked up from a salavage yard for ~$35, sooo I am assuming that I am likely to kill that one too. Have you had any issues with that inverter? (I am using the exact same inverter-- 400W right?)