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Thread: 2010 BMW X1 (E84) Car Computer Install

  1. #1
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    2010 BMW X1 (E84) Car Computer Install

    My BMW X1 install is now in a state that it can be shown:-



    The car is a 2010 BMW X1 (E84), (2.0D SE, S-drive model)







    Before:


    The system schematic below shows all of the components that have been installed:-


    Click here for a larger image


    LCD,


    The front bezel has been made from 4mm thick acrylic and sprayed matt black. I have had to move the A/C controls down as far as they will go so I can accommodate the screen above them.
    The VGA touch-screen is a 600nit Sunlight readable 7" display from LinITX. In my previous E46 BMW I had a standard 7" touch-screen, however as the interior of this new car is beige the reflections made it hard to read on all but the cloudiest of days. The sunlight readable display was expensive but it is a lot brighter. From the image below it can be seen that the camera flash is barely visible on the new screen.




    Computer,


    The computer has been mounted in the boot. This is hidden under the boot floor and well protected during day-to-day use.





    • The Computer is based around a VIA 1.5GHz ITX motherboard, (This has been used in my previous BMW E46 for the past 3 years, it's a bit old but very functional)

    • The front-end is Ride Runner, running on Windows XP.

    • A Kingston SSD gives a POST and boot time of <45 seconds. The install is from my previous car and is about three years old. If I was to do a re-install it would probably be quicker but then it would take an age to re-configure everything again

    • The amplifiers are driven by a Creative USB sound card. This has been modified to output 4x stereo signals to each of the amplifiers.

    • HD webcam (mounted behind the rear view mirror)

    • '3' Mobile broadband, for live tracking, internet radio, weather etc..

    • Automapa GPS software.




    BMW k-can interface,




    I am using a small Arduino uP to translate the BMW k-Can bus into i-bus. (This is only because I'm not sure where to start writing my own Ride Runner plug-in).
    ibusRR, gives me:-
    • Fuel tank Range,

    • Engine Coolant temp,

    • Steering wheel control of Ride Runner (next screen, play / pause, up / down track, up / down volume etc...)

    • External temperature

    I am also using the external temperature variable to tunnel the following into a flash animation gauge:-
    • RPM*

    • Accelerator position.

    • Climate control temperature setting

    • Internal cabin temperature

    • Indicator status

    • PDC (rear parking information)

    • Clutch and brake information

    • Steering wheel position


    *RPM could be done with ibusRR itself but the old iBus is only actuate to 100's of RPM i.e 1800 RPM. The k-can contains higher resolution data i.e 1765 RPM


    Click here for more information on the K-CAN codes for the BMW E84




    Audio,


    3x Alpine Amps.

    3x sets of Ground Zero speakers. These fit relatively easily into the standard BMW holes without too much butchering. (The car is still under manufacturer warranty so I want to go a little careful!)
    GZRC100FX: for the front door,
    GZMW200NEO: Mid woofers for under the drive and passenger seat
    GZHF402X: full range for the rear boot sides.

    The above set is actually designed for the 1 series BMW and fitting it into the X1 took a small amount of drilling in the speaker surrounds. It also appears that the under-seat mid woofers are now glued
    together rather than screwed. This took a bit of brute force and ignorance to get apart but it didn't actually break it. With the use of the ground zero GZBR200BMW adapter rings it all fit back together
    nicely.
    The GZMW200NEO mid woofers have been used as they are very slim at only 59mm deep.



    1x 8" Cerwin Vega sub-woofer. Previously I had twin 8" subs dropped into the spare-wheel well but with the advent of run-flat tires the spare wheel well is a thing of the past.
    The sub-woofer can be seen in the image above of the boot, the sub is the cube on the on the right hand side of the boot.


    Most people have a bit more sense than to start taking apart a 2year old BMW, but I think it has been tastefully done and looks pretty much OEM. (and at a fraction of the cost of iDrive)
    Last edited by TrevorC2; 06-15-2012 at 09:08 AM. Reason: Updated link to the K-CAN codes.

  2. #2
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    man, that really does look OEM. very nice job, and beautiful car you have there.
    Last edited by BERTMAN; 06-09-2012 at 06:35 AM.

  3. #3
    Variable Bitrate daclothe's Avatar
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    looks absolutely fantastic. well done!

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    Very very nicely done!

  5. #5
    Variable Bitrate daclothe's Avatar
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    and you would you mind sharing any more deets about the bezel fabrication and hvac relocation?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by daclothe View Post
    and you would you mind sharing any more deets about the bezel fabrication and hvac relocation?
    The bezel is actually quite a crude but very effective construction.



    Firstly I cut a hole out of a flat bit of acrylic and carefully filed it down to that of the active area of the LCD screen
    Second I gently heated the bottom of the acrylic to give a gentle but subtle bend (only about 5 - 10 degrees)




    I placed the bezel on a flat surface and filled the gap with strong decorators filler (or a light Bondo type material)
    When this was dry and set hard the surfaced was filed down flat and smooth.
    At this point the bezel was given several coats of Flat Black enamel spray.



    The LCD screen and driver PCB were very carefully removed from the retail housing and attached to the back of the bezel.
    For this I used a mixture of light weight glue gun to hold the screen in place for the initial location and then epoxy to make sure it wasn't going to come away when prodding the touch-screen. Note that I used a scalpel to 'roughen' up acrylic surface to give the glue something to adhere to. Also take care not to mount the LCD driver PCB directly on the rear of the LCD screen as you could short out the electronics and damage the screen.



    Actually mounting the screen in the car was much easier than my previous E46 BMW. As shown in the image above the screen is held in place by an interference fit between the top mounting lip of the dashboard and the front bezel of the A/C unit.
    As the A/C unit was only moved down by an inch all of the wires were plenty long enough that they did not need extending.


    Please excuse the crude diagrams but I didn't take photos of this bit as I was going along.

  7. #7
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    I have now added a link in the initial post to the K-CAN codes of an E84 BMW. This maybe similar to other BMW models.

    Some of these are still work in progress and there may be some errors, but it is a good starting point for anyone trying to understand the K-CAN control bus of the BMW.

  8. #8
    Variable Bitrate daclothe's Avatar
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    man thank you so very much - that's an incredibly helpful post.

  9. #9
    Constant Bitrate cazzz's Avatar
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    Looks great. What did you use to cut the plexiglass and what epoxy did you use to secure the LCD to the plexiglass?

  10. #10
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    Very nice work done, congratulations.
    I also want to do the same to my x1, will you be kind to assist me when I need help?

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