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Thread: 2001 Acura CL-S T-Mobile Springboard and a good use for a 3d printer

  1. #1
    Newbie crutonius's Avatar
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    2001 Acura CL-S T-Mobile Springboard and a good use for a 3d printer

    So, my third car pc setup. If you count an Android tablet as a car pc. So in my previous build I used a Samsung Galaxy Tab as my head unit. This went pretty well except there was one irritating problem I just couldn't seem to fix; connecting the hdmi out would kill the gps signal. So I decided to upgrade to a T-Mobile Springboard. And to make a new bezel I decided to try to figure out this 3d printing stuff. It came out pretty good. I the closest I've come to that factory look I've made so far.

    In my old setup I used a McIntosh 6 channel amp. It sounded great but it wasn't very good at powering a subwoofer. Since I didn't want to have a second amp taking up space I thought I'd try one of these fancy new class d amps. I regret selling the McIntosh but I have to say I'm impressed with the JL audio. It has no trouble powering the sub plus it sounds just about a good as the McIntosh.

    Originally to power on and off the screen and to start and stop music I'd use Tasker to read the charge state and switch off of that. This approach has a number of problems though. Sometimes I'd leave the car in the garage long enough for the tablet's battery to run out. Also Tasker doesn't have a way to actually pause and play music, it has toggle pause. So the play state would occasionally switch for whatever reason. So one other change I made was using an Arduino BT to read the ignition state of the car. The tablet is linked to it through bluetooth. An app called Amarino reads what I'm spitting out of the Arduino and an app that I wrote called Dreambar reads that and turns the screen on and off. It also uses Poweramp's API to pause or play the music. One day I'll get around to interfacing the steering wheel buttons and whatever else I feel like through the Arduino.

    Hardware
    T-Mobile Springboard
    HDCP HDMI to VGA + SPDIF RGB Component Ypbpr Converter v1.3b
    Audison BitOne processor
    JL Audio HD900/5
    JL Audio TW5 subwoofer
    Some kind of components up front and 6x9's in the back, can't remember the model
    Arduino BT

    Software
    Cyanogenmod 9
    Google Navigation
    Pandora
    Power Amp
    Rhapsody
    Dreambar(my own software for talking to the Arduino BT)

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  2. #2
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    Looks Good! now lets see the process you went through using that 3d printer and making your bezel, very interested. Keep up the good work SNO

  3. #3
    Variable Bitrate m2x0p9x's Avatar
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    Nice work on the bezel, your print came out clean and uniform. What kinda printer you using? Were you able to print the bezel in one piece? I just built a 3d printer myself but only have a build volume of 8" x 8" x 12". Using Pronterface and Slic3r my prints are pretty good but could still be better. Are you going to leave the bezel as is or use some bondo and smooth out the top surface to look stock?

  4. #4
    Newbie crutonius's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m2x0p9x View Post
    Nice work on the bezel, your print came out clean and uniform. What kinda printer you using? Were you able to print the bezel in one piece? I just built a 3d printer myself but only have a build volume of 8" x 8" x 12". Using Pronterface and Slic3r my prints are pretty good but could still be better. Are you going to leave the bezel as is or use some bondo and smooth out the top surface to look stock?
    In person the texture doesn't look that bad. I'm kind of scared of trying to smooth it out as I'm almost certain I'd do more harm than good.

    Getting that print to come out looking good was quite the journey. I started with a Lulzbot Prusa. Did some upgrades. The biggest upgrade was I bought a larger heat bed for it. It currently has an 16" wide 8" deep bed that I got from thefutureis3d.com. I think I failed roughly a dozen prints trying to get it right. I started with a 5 pound spool and about %60 was used in failed prints of this object. I'll sum up some of the bits of wisdom I learned, this is what helped me. YMMV.

    Use real bearings or sleeves, not pla bushings. A set of lm8uu's is only $24.

    Upgrade to something better than the typical mk1 heatbed. Good prints take a lot of heat and that bed just can't put out enough of it.

    Large enough parts always curl. This is actually two pieces. A front that holds the table and the back that bolts to the car. What's interesting is that I started this assuming that the side lying on the print bed would be the side that comes out the smoothest and straightest. It turns out the opposite is true on larger prints. The bottom tends to warp and the top remains very nice and straight.

    PlA gives me nothing but grief. I don't know what sorcery other people use to get good results out of it but for me it's something I use when I'm in too good a mood and I feel like being enraged.

    Also, if you don't feel like dealing the headache of a printer, there are websites where you can submit your 3d model and they'll print it for you. They quoted mine for $500 though so I didn't end up going that way.

  5. #5
    Newbie crutonius's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SNOtwistR View Post
    Looks Good! now lets see the process you went through using that 3d printer and making your bezel, very interested. Keep up the good work SNO
    Thanks. I wish I had the foresight to document and photograph my steps in these projects like the other guys do but unfortunately about the best I can show everyone is a bunch of failed prints.

  6. #6
    Variable Bitrate m2x0p9x's Avatar
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    Right on. Yea I built a Printrbot but with a larger heat bead using an MK1 all from self sourced parts. I know what you mean about PLA, it takes a lot patience to find the right speed and temps. But awesome work on your project, good to see another 3d printer enthusiast on the forums.

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    I was curious how is the tablet held in place?

  8. #8
    Newbie crutonius's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jayknight View Post
    I was curious how is the tablet held in place?
    Friction. It's that tight. I have to use a suction cup to get it out.

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