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Thread: My carputer project: Solaslim

  1. #41
    I'm sorry, and you are....? frodobaggins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rafaelsherman
    Thanks frodobaggins!!

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  2. #42
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    Just out of curiousity whats wrong with the Xenarc screens? I have one coming in the mail. I'm not too picky, just tried to find the cheapest possible.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShaneMcFarland
    Just out of curiousity whats wrong with the Xenarc screens? I have one coming in the mail. I'm not too picky, just tried to find the cheapest possible.
    Hi there, I'm not sure if you asked me or anyone else..

    However, just to make it clear. I didn't have any Xenarc monitor. Mine is TM-701L which Gain is the manufacturer (i think, but not sure).

    The reason I changed it to the Alpine motoried indash because:

    1. The alpine is motoried, detachable face, has FM/AM tune, has built-in internal amplifier, and I could control the volume up & down easily using the remote.

    2. The TM-701L is bigger screen, but need to open/close by two hands, no volume controler, doesn't match well with my dash. The only thing it's good is for using with the computer. And I only use the computer sometimes at night only, not when I drive a short trip..etc..

    nthai

  4. #44
    Constant Bitrate _maelstrom's Avatar
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    nthai, great looking install. Yours is the only other one I've seen so far with the pc in the glove box.

    I've got a question for you. I have a pretty similar setup. My system is in the glove box and I have an in-dash 7" lcd. I'm having trouble with static on my screen and I know it has something to do with a power issue. How did you run the power and ground wires for the screen and the computer system? On your new alpine deck, did you use the factory wiring for the 12V and ground or did you run your own?

    Oh...and just out of curiosity, how did you mod your PW60 to output 120W?
    - Sony XAV-7W In-Dash 7" LCD
    - Via EPIA 800MHz
    - 256MB SDRAM
    - 40GB HDD
    - Targus Wireless Remote
    - Win 98SE
    See it Here
    or Here (cardomain.com)

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by _maelstrom
    nthai, great looking install. Yours is the only other one I've seen so far with the pc in the glove box.

    I've got a question for you. I have a pretty similar setup. My system is in the glove box and I have an in-dash 7" lcd. I'm having trouble with static on my screen and I know it has something to do with a power issue. How did you run the power and ground wires for the screen and the computer system? On your new alpine deck, did you use the factory wiring for the 12V and ground or did you run your own?

    Oh...and just out of curiosity, how did you mod your PW60 to output 120W?

    Thanks. Your is awesome as well.

    I don't have any static on my screen at all, and not sure why your does. However, it could be the power supply (like you thought it was) or maybe the RCA cable connecting between the puter and the screen.

    For my old setup (with 7" indash TM-701L monitor), I wired the screen & the computer system throught the cig. wire (thus I could only turn the computer on when the car's inigition is on).
    However, for the new setup with the Alpine, I wired the Alpine with the factory power wire, but ran the ground to the car's chasis. And the computer is still wired through the cig. connector.
    As for the PW120, I didn't mod it. I bought it from Ebay with the mod had already been done.

    btw, great car with awasome sound & carputer system.

    nthai

  6. #46
    Constant Bitrate _maelstrom's Avatar
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    Do you have your screen and your computer grounded in the same place? Did you ground the motherboard? I know alot of people on this forum recommend grounding your case, but neither of us have a case to ground so I'm thinking grounding the motherboard might help.

    I know the static is a result of a power issue. When I have the pc hooked up to an extension cord running from my house, the screen is crystal clear. When I run the pc off the car battery, that's when the static appears.

    I actually took out my cigarette lighter and replaced it with a switch and I've been using the lighter's 12V to power the computer. The screen was originally hooked up to the factory wiring, but I was advised by a local car stereo place to run a power wire directly from the battery to the screen to help solve another issue I had. (Whenever I turned the
    volume up, the screen would flicker when there was a hard bass hit. Running the new wire didn't solve that problem either.) When I ran the wire for the deck, I also ran a wire directly from the battery to the switch for the PC. That didn't help either. I'm convinced it has something to do with grounding, but I'm not quite sure where to start to diagnose the problem.

    I just got some new parts and will be redoing everything that has to do with the PC (along with taking out my Blaupunkt DVD player), so I'm hoping to resolve this issue in the process. Any advice you could give for wiring or anything else would be appreciated.
    - Sony XAV-7W In-Dash 7" LCD
    - Via EPIA 800MHz
    - 256MB SDRAM
    - 40GB HDD
    - Targus Wireless Remote
    - Win 98SE
    See it Here
    or Here (cardomain.com)

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by _maelstrom
    Do you have your screen and your computer grounded in the same place? Did you ground the motherboard? I know alot of people on this forum recommend grounding your case, but neither of us have a case to ground so I'm thinking grounding the motherboard might help.

    I know the static is a result of a power issue. When I have the pc hooked up to an extension cord running from my house, the screen is crystal clear. When I run the pc off the car battery, that's when the static appears.

    I actually took out my cigarette lighter and replaced it with a switch and I've been using the lighter's 12V to power the computer. The screen was originally hooked up to the factory wiring, but I was advised by a local car stereo place to run a power wire directly from the battery to the screen to help solve another issue I had. (Whenever I turned the
    volume up, the screen would flicker when there was a hard bass hit. Running the new wire didn't solve that problem either.) When I ran the wire for the deck, I also ran a wire directly from the battery to the switch for the PC. That didn't help either. I'm convinced it has something to do with grounding, but I'm not quite sure where to start to diagnose the problem.

    I just got some new parts and will be redoing everything that has to do with the PC (along with taking out my Blaupunkt DVD player), so I'm hoping to resolve this issue in the process. Any advice you could give for wiring or anything else would be appreciated.
    wow, lots of question. Let's see:

    I grounded my screen behind the dash's area, and the computer to different the cig. light. I didn't ground the motherboard (how people do it?).
    I've tried to power my screen directly from the battery (through the fuse, of course), but it didn't help much with the static at all. I never had problem with the volume like you did.
    I might move my puter to the case and place it under the pass. seat in the future. Right now, it's kinda too hot in the glove box.

    Please share with me once you got your problem solved. Thanks.

    P.s. I'm just a beginner @ this carputer game, and still have a lots to learn.

  8. #48
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    Lightbulb Maybe I can help...

    Well I dont know as much about cars as I do about computers but I know alot about computers. Computers including TFT LCD screens are extremely sensitive to the quality of the electricity it is getting. You said it flickers when you get a heavy bass hit? How big are your subs how much power. You may want to consider wiring in a UPS to the cars electrics because that will prevent any kind of surges, prevent any kind of losses, and more or less condition the line . Once again computers - extremely sensitive to the QUALITY. btw I don't think its the grounding but anything is possible
    Hope I was helpful

    -Luna

    Quote Originally Posted by nthai
    wow, lots of question. Let's see:

    I grounded my screen behind the dash's area, and the computer to different the cig. light. I didn't ground the motherboard (how people do it?).
    I've tried to power my screen directly from the battery (through the fuse, of course), but it didn't help much with the static at all. I never had problem with the volume like you did.
    I might move my puter to the case and place it under the pass. seat in the future. Right now, it's kinda too hot in the glove box.

    Please share with me once you got your problem solved. Thanks.

    P.s. I'm just a beginner @ this carputer game, and still have a lots to learn.

  9. #49
    Constant Bitrate _maelstrom's Avatar
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    Nthai,
    Thanks again for the quick response. I have my glove box out right now to fit all the new parts. I was hoping to work on the wiring today, but it's raining and I don't have room in my garage to work on my car in there. Hopefully I'll have plenty of time this weekend. I'll definately let you know how things turn out and hopefully what I did to get everything working right.

    Luna,
    Thanks for the input.
    I have 2 10" subs and a single 2 channel amp. The amp puts out 150W RMS per channel. The HU puts out something like 22W RMS per channel. The amp is wired directly to the battery with 4 gauge wire and a 40amp inline fuse.
    I actually tried a UPS sometime last summer. It didn't help with the static or anything else. Would adding a 0.5 or 1.0 farad cap help?
    The PC system has regulated 12V running to it. When the screen is on, I have it set up so it draws it's power directly from the battery instead of the factory wiring. Would it help to regulate the 12V running to the screen?


    The thing that really bugs me about all this is I've had a computer in my car in some form or another for the last 4 years. This setup I'm running now is the only time I've ever had this kind of problem with static on the screen.
    - Sony XAV-7W In-Dash 7" LCD
    - Via EPIA 800MHz
    - 256MB SDRAM
    - 40GB HDD
    - Targus Wireless Remote
    - Win 98SE
    See it Here
    or Here (cardomain.com)

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by stkdidy ntshidy
    a capacitor is used to level out the power consumption from the alternator. when a system (esp with high wattage subs) hits a loud note, it drains more power for a brief moment...a /\/\/\ kind of pattern is formed (graph of power consumption). a camacitor draws power from the alternator evenly and remains charged at all times when the system is turned on. when a big note is hit, the cap provides the extra punch to the amps instead of directly from the alt...thus it keeps the lights from dimming (as much at least) and allows a higher wattage system to be run off a lower output alt (eg a stock alt).
    Just wondering but I have a 1250watt sub amp then my 200 something watt factory system. Is that enough to cause the lights to dim? I havn't noticed any thing.
    2003 Audi A4 1.8t (Totaled, Project Canceled)

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