Starting my first build
I am starting my first car pc build.
Car is a 1992 Chevrolet Caprice Classic LTZ white lowered 2 inches on Impala SS rims.
MOBO: HP OEM ASUS MOCA-AR Calcite $20
Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo T7200 $30
Ram: 2GB Hynix ddr2 laptop Free
HDD: Probably gonna use an IDE 80 gb seagate, and a 320 gb laptop drive in an enclosure for my music etc. Free
ODD: slim toshiba DVD drive drive free enclosure $7
Screen: Proximus 7" touch screen $42
Power Supply: M4-ATX $55
I will have my existing video screens driven either by the onboard graphics through the on board composite out or by the onboard vga through my adapter. Cost $15 for the adapter and another 50 for a good video amplifier
Various odds and ends
10 port powered USB HUB $10
7 Port USB hub $4
ATX to HP slimline power adapter $10
Heatsink $8 Zalman knock off. Hope it works! If not ill need to find a smaller guy.
3.5 to rca adapters $15
USB extensions $10
Interfaces so far
ADS instant FM gotta build an adapter cable to use my cars $6
eBay chinese bluetooth dongle $1
eBay chinese wifi adapter with external antenna $6
Front end Im still deciding, but FreeICE is pretty awesome Ive downloaded it and ride runner for a few test runs
Things to go:
Sound card. I dont know if the realtek 7.1 on board will be tolerable.
Nice equalizer with an 8 volt line driver.
Sound equipment in the car
Infinity 6.5 Kappa mids with polk tweeters on a passive crossover
Rear Infinity 4x6 plates
Highs amp Rockford punch 600.4
Sub Custom built 15" by team psi based off of a AA Havoc motor
Sub amp Power Acoustik A3000db
Front and rear mids Dayton pro 6.5
Front and rear tweeters something large format preferably PEERLESS
Sub: Another custom build, Im gonna put a new top end on my TC-3hp motor
So small update messing with my software. My case is officially built, although I now have to make room for my video card and mount the hdd securely.
The moca-ar mobo I chose for this build is, well a nightmare I read about what I thought was all of the quirks Id run into. Theres more. Evidently you can boot off of a usb cd rom drive and get into windows set-up but cannot successfully go through it. Thanks to my trusted old ide cd drive windows is up and running.
Another thing it does not support 800x480. I have a ATi x1300 pro to help me fix that tho. 11 dollars and 30w power consumption. Im just going to be using the svideo port to drive 2 8 inch screens.
The heatsink I made out of an old slot 1 pentium 2 heatsink is no where near adequate surprise! It idles at 55c in the bios! I have a copper socket 370/a 1u server heatsink coming with a nicer 25 cfm 60mm fan designed to cool up to a 96 watt athlon or 65 watt p3 or celery didnt understand that one. The t7200 is supposed to produce 56 watts thermal energy so we should be fine here. Not asking for miracles here, but temps under 40 at idle would be great in a room temperature room. I need this thing to be reliable in a car year round. Also using two 80mm intake fan on the case (left overs) and allowing the air to escape just past the mobo through a passive vent. This managed to cool the chipset down ALOT!!!!!
For software Im running into a few conflicts. I really really wanna use freeICE, I like the interface alot more. However I cannot get sygic to function reliably with it and iguidance is not seamless in it. Not to mention i cannot get the silabs radio to work in it. I can get the RDS info with the audio disabled, but with the audio enabled the radio disappears.
Ive got riderunner functioning with iguidance and a bu-353, my ADS instant fm, dvd drive etc
Now for the part I need help with. I would really like to integrate my reverse cam into this. I am using a usb dvr attachment for the video source. I am wondering if there is any way to activate the camera when i put it into reverse?
Also I need to be able to activate it as I cannot use my stereo and mirror reliably at the same time. As soon as the bass hits my mirror points to the floor.
Okay so small update. the output from my power supply is nowhere near enough to activate a relay no big the amp and antenna can be run off of the ignition switch. The amps I use have anti-thump circuits integrated so another problem avoided.
FreeICE will NOT work reliably with silabs radio. So I went with riderunner, although I do NOT like the interface at all. Im using the DFX 5.1 skin, which is an improvement over carwings lite (could not get it to fit on my usb screen) The proximus/mimo usb screens have minimal adjustments so its DFX 5.1 unless I find something better. The big plus is it at least had Chevy emblems integrated.
The brightness on the USB screen while not as good as the $500 plus screens is more than adequate in my car to read. Keep in mind I have my tint ripped out until I can afford to have a better shop redo it.
I measured the output of the RCAs on my motherboard with the realtek 883 onboard sound, and I am getting a solid 1 volt. While this is adequate for most (This is more preout voltage than you will see out of 90% of headunits on the market using real world measurements. Most decks put out between 0.250 and 0.800 volts before clipping!) This was not enough for me. I ordered a Cadence CEQ-773 (this is the old model. The new one plays mp3s and has a ton of junk I dont want) I am NOT interested in the EQ feature. It has an integrated 7 volt line driver and subwoofer crossover. These I DO need. The realtek driver doesnt integrate well so I adjusted it on my tv, any adjustments will be doe via this or an active crossover.
From pricing it looks like a line driver for two channels would have run me anywhere from 40-100 and I would have needed 3. I also have very limited space at this point.
Once the eq is mounted securely, I need to get a new center console and hack it up to fit the carputer underneath, as under the seat is just a little too small. Also I need to put a fan grill in and backlight it so the carputer can cool and because Im a LED lighting freak.
Wires are already ran but need to be re-hidden under the carpet.
I need to order and install power filters for the two additional tvs and run the AV wires to them. If I decide to add surround sound processing, these will be used as the center channel.