I've just found this forum, and I think I'm in geeky heaven. So I thought I might show my current project off. And see if people can poke holes in my plans.
My plans are to have two Nexus tablets, one 7", one 10". The smaller will be the dash of the car, so hook up Torque, and fiddle with it so it's reading all the fuel tank, speed, temp, ect. It'll all be welded in a flush design (no plastic bits in a 52 year old car) (and yes, I realise that there is no ABD2 adaptor in a car that old, I found a way).
Then the fun bit will be with the nexus 10. I'm planning on welding it (well a support it can sit in) into the middle of the dash, and then delete all the exisiting controls. So use the tablet to control all the air-con, windscreen wipers, headlights, car ignition. I think with a bit of fiddling, I can set it to sense the temp, and start the air-con accordingly.
I'm planning on getting an bluetooth relay board, so I just need to hook in the switches, and make some widgets that talk to the android relay app, and cross my fingers I'm not ignoring something stupid.
It'll have a passive RFID alarm, so you walk up to the car, and it unlocks automatically, then put the sensor somewhere, and it turns it onto the on position, and the first image from the tablet will be a big start button widget. Press it, engine starts, automatically (using tasker) switches to the controls that sort out the air-con and so on.
Some pictures, cause I can.
This is when I first got it (sort of)
Two years worth of work:
And the dash I plan on welding the tablets into:
I'm on a few other forums, but I get very confused blank looks when I talk about my plans, so does anybody know why it won't work? Or have any tips to make it easier?
I was going to use this relay board:
And for Torque, since it's an older car without ABD2, I was going to use this:
I just had another awesome idea, and a pretty cheap one to implement too!
That's called bare paint, it basically can detect when an object is close, so you can wave a hand over it, and it'll send a signal to an control board. Then that control board can send a signal to something like the fuel lid popper, or the latch for the hard lid tray, opening either with a hand swipe.
It can also be painted too.
The more I google into an idea, the more little tricks I can find to make it work!
I also had a little change of plans with my dash too, I was going to make it completely buttonless, but I figured I'd want a volume control for the sound that I can use without looking down. So I got one of these:
You basically solder it in between the AUX cable, and then mount it. It'll control the amount of sound going through. Either between an amp, or the stereo I already bought.
I also want a hazard lights switch that isn't in the tablet too. I don't trust the tablets enough if I need it there.
But I decided on these knobs, against the gun metal grey I think they'll look cool.
Can the mods please move this to the worklog? I want to be able to get advice about this from the people on here. Thanks.
I just ordered myself a pot of the bare conductive paint, I've had a few emails back and forth from the owner, asking how it works, if rain will set it off, ect. All good news.
They haven't had the product for that long, but the first test they did in 2009 is still working properly. Rain will create a reaction, but it's easy to set the amount of a reaction it'll need to pop open the solodnoid. And it'll sandwich between paint very easily, with metallic paint not being conductive to it.
So I bought myself an Arduino Uno board, and I've been teaching myself how to use those. Details and code are available for the distance sensor, but not one that'll control a relay board, but from reading, it shouldn't be too hard to set tolerances, and send power to the relay switch. Exciting times.
Great project ! I hope you describe every steps to have buttonless unit
I'll be watching too. My 2nd car was a '66 Falcon Futura and my 4th car was a '64 Falcon Ranchero, so I am interested in your progress.
Right behind the rear window on the bed was access to the rear shock well, and it gets really rusty in there.I had to put a braided ground cable between the bed side and the cab side to stop rust from forming exceptionally fast there. Some kind of dielectric effect goes on.
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But if you want rusty pictures...
Never welded a day before in my life, I bought myself a cheap gasless MIG off ebay, and started doing some horribly dodgy repairs on my ute. I didn't discover most of the bad bits in the photos yet, but I did a few practice welds, and started on the ute...
And then came far too much practice, most of it on the ute, because I had plenty of bits to play with. I'm pretty sure I've made the gasless wire people very rich.
But the reason for the ute being named "Riggs"
The guy it was bought from, he didn't want his wife getting the ute in a nasty divorse, so he sat on his balcony with his shotgun and started taking shots at the ute. So it had bullet holes along the lenght of the ute, but I cut them out and welded them straight again, so like riggs from Lethal Weapon, he was shot, and healed up nicely.
And more rust repairs...
^^ That one is still my worst welding experience, it was upside down, underneath the ute, with spot of molten welds constantly falling on me, was not fun^^
But with that frame rail completed, I stepped it up to the next stage.
I borrowed a car rotissier from a friend, and proceeded to hook it up.
I stripped down the majority of the underside and painted it up with POR15 (if you're doing any resto project, look it up).
Which is when I discovered the ungodly amount of rust. Pretty much the entire rear of the ute needed to be replaced. It was either holy, very thin, or recovering from a dodgy repair.
I won't go through all the photos, because there is a lot of them, and I won't go through all the rebuilt bits, because there is a lot of them. But after 4 months of long painfully annoying welding. And me wishing I'd bought a gas MIG welder.
I had a few more body repairs to do, but they were childs play after reconstructing the whole rear underside of the car.
But it's all repaired now. All cut out with new metal.
So I started on something more interesting.
I want the ute as my daily driver, so it'd need air-con. There were a few options, but I bought an XF falcon to pull all the engine and drive train from, so I'd be taking all the goods from that. But the 1964 XM had no sort of air-con in it, so it needed to be built first. So I started on the air-con vents. I had a few bad trial runs, but ended up with this.
And I also started on the fuel filler. The original was a big clunky manual spin one that I never really liked, so I went and cut an electronic fuel filler from an EL falcon. I fiberglassed up the XF spout.
And welded it in.
I've got a stack more photos, from the roof lining I cannibalized from a BMW, Air-con system from an XF falcon I cut apart to make fit, the whole paint process which I did in my backyard (although I'm going to spray a silver pearl over the top turning it into an gun metal gray), and way more.
But I also had a change of plans with the dash. I've decided on two buttons only. I think I'll need a volume control, if the phone rings or something, I don't want to have to be looking and fiddling with the volume control on the dash. So I bought a potentiometer, and I'll hook that between the tablet and stereo in the glove box. I also want the hazard lights to be a physical button. So if the tablet dies somehow, and something goes wrong, it should be alright.
And I've changed the way to control the whole thing. I'm going to use an Arduino to control everything. So I can connect a stack of relays to the adruino, as well as other sensors like light sensors, temp sensors, rain sensors; and then use the arduino to automatically control everything. So if it's too hot, the air-con will auto turn on, fans up, if it rains, the wipes will flick on. It'll also make it easier to control through the tablet. It can also control servo motors too, so I click a button and it'll turn the heat up and down with the physical latch on the Air-con box, and another button can swap between vents in the car.
Then with the tablet, all I've got to do is make a basic widget that'll send a certain code to the arduino communicator box. So I click a widget button, and it sends the code to the communicator box, which activates a relay, or servo. So I'll make a widget for everything I need on the first load page, all with different pictures of what they do.
I'm also toying with the idea for using another larger arduino as a decoder for the dash. It can read all the analogue codes coming from the temp gauge/fuel/speedo. And there are already gauges I can make work, it'll just be experimenting to see how much I can teach myself with the programming side of things, and customising the gauges to look how I want.
That rust was a little worse than mine, but given it's 30 years further along, I understand!
I looks like a great restore project, and with a computer dash it will be awesome!
Looks good so far. Keep us posted
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