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Thread: My Accord build carputer communicating with ecu REAL TIME TUNING

  1. #41
    Raw Wave
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    Cute.
    But what relevance does that have to the OP or your replies?

  2. #42
    Constant Bitrate AutoWiz's Avatar
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    probably the same relavence as your comment to my joke about stuffing bodies in the trunk. the reality of life and things is all c3 corvettes (1968-1982) had the battery mounted directly behind the drivers seat. and none of them were vented outside the car. and the c3 corvettes are not known for choking people or for exploding. but then, I was joking with rray about the possible need to stuff someone in the microscopic trunk of a Camaro. it's just an awkard correction, your first post.

  3. #43
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    You seem to be confusing me with someone else. I made no joke or comment about bodies in trunks.

    Corvettes may have had (vented - ie, flooded/wet-cell) batteries in the cabin, but that was OEM and therefore not relevant to this thread.

    My clarification was to emphasise the main reason for venting sealed battery boxes (with vented batteries) as relevant to this thread.
    Of course if mounting in a cabin, then I would expect toxic fumes to be the major concern (eg, H2S) since IMO H2 is not likely to be a problem, but even that is not an issue since a vented battery is required to be in a sealed vented box irrespective of boot/trunk or cabin mounting.

  4. #44
    Constant Bitrate AutoWiz's Avatar
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    right, your clarification on a facetious post. it was, is, and always be awkward. I mean, re-read my build thread you are trying so desperately to hijack here. this back and forth puts pages in between what is supposed to be a slew of pictures about my build. I mean, what are you clarifying here, exactly? I never implied that toxic fumes were the number 1 reason to vent a battery outside the car. it is A reason and it fit with my joke about how small his trunk is. and please, why don't you let me worry about what is or is not relevant to MY build thread. ok? I see your join date and amount of posts, you are a long time member of mp3car.com, and I mean you no disrespect.

  5. #45
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    I have 3 cooling fans. 2 rad fans, and 1 condenser fan. when all 3 fans turn on together it almost stalls the engine. so this is the fan controller I designed and built. now with the a/c on 2 fans are spinning, when the motor gets hot 2 fans are spinning, and only when the motor is hot and the a/c is on will all 3 fans spin. this solution is using 4 relays and fuses. the rest is to drive the hid low and high beams. I am contemplating using an arduino board and a few more relays to bring the 2 fans on in series for 5 seconds before powering them parallel to further reduce electrical spikes at fan turn on.
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  6. #46
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    I put a lot of thought into the best location in the vehicle to mount the carpc. that performance oriented video card gets hot and extra fans just means extra electrical load and whats the difference between hot stagnant air and moving hot air, anyways. i cut out the backside of the a/c floor vent so it will blow cold air under carpet on right side toe board. this is such an awesome place to mount because directly above is the recirculate air intake for the a/c. right behind the glove box. so the heat being created by carpc doesn't affect cabin temps. it easy to free up that area for carpc, too. all i had to do was get rid of the huge factory ecu, and mount everything to it's tray. this also allowed me to keep the hdmi cable short for best possible video signal.
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  7. #47
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    My apologies. I missed that you are the OP. I actually thought though you were hijacking.
    Nor did I understand that you were not fitting a battery in a new position not in accordance with the vehicle's approved OEM build. I saw the battery box and assumed a **** to the cabin or trunk and hence my first reply "Not forgetting that to be legal (and safe), that "sealed box" needs to be vented to the outside if its fitted with a vented (wet cell aka flooded) battery.". (Not that those boxes are sealed, but they wouldn't want to be.)

    My second reply was "Actually the venting has little to do with toxic fumes, it is primarily to prevent explosion." which was intended to simply emphasise the main reason for the relevant Regulations, that's all.
    If you saw that as being facetious I apologise, tho as I read it, that was not directed at me.

    So sorry for not realising that your battery fitting is still OEM and meets Regulations.

    Over & out.


    PS - since the Regulations etc are understood, I can delete all my replies (totally) if you wish.
    Last edited by OldSpark; 09-07-2013 at 07:26 PM.

  8. #48
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    So you are saying that instead of your pc heat being blown into the cabin, it is being sucked out through the air conditioning return? Cool. literally and figuratively. I notice you put Dynamat on the ECU/PC mount too, does that also dampen any fan noise or is it more for vibration dampening?

  9. #49
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    One note about standard Dynamat. For sound deadening function you do not need 100% coverage.
    I forget the exact % but it was around 10% coverage needed to deaden the sound. Anything past that is considered overkill because it will make no measurable difference for sound deadening purposes.

    The purpose of something such as Dynamat is to keep sheet metal from "ringing" and changing the sound. Or in some cases plain rattling.

    If you are using it for sound proofing there are other products that do a much better job for much less money.

    Standard Dynamat works great and I have seen demonstrations of it but the same demonstrations show you don't need very much of it to perform its intended function.

    There are other Dyamat products available that are used for other things but for sound deadening the case is you don't need much.

    Also, unless you had modified vettes or they were old enough to not require venting none of the big three manufacturers produced cars with batteries mounted inside without exterior venting. It may not have been obvious but there was venting there.
    Also doesn't mean someone couldn't remove the vent system either. Seems I remember hearing about some GM cars that had issues with batteries mounted under the back seats when the venting system would fall apart the owners would just remove the venting system not realizing what it was there for.

    BTW, Still a cool build, over done or not...
    And I always say over done is better than under done or not done at all.

    One last note about your circuit. You could use a delay timer. There are relays available that you can set the delay on them as well. They look like the same relays you are using but the difference is they have an integrated timer built into them. So to stagger your fans you could use 1 standard relay and 2 delay relays set at different amounts. I have seen these delay relays used mostly by people with HID's that don't want the HID's burning up because they get flashed for a couple seconds.
    Last edited by redheadedrod; 09-08-2013 at 03:52 AM.

  10. #50
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    the dynamat on the floor underneath the carpc is dual purpose. it is to insulate against engine bay temps on the other side of the toe board, and it joins the other 80% coverage on the entire floor to help deaden road noise that otherwise travels through such thin sheet metal. I also have wrapped the a/c box with dynamat to insulate and keep it from sweating onto my carpc. this was needed as I ordered carpets without heavy juke backing so I do not have to worry about fibers getting drawn into my cpu and gpu heatsinks and fans. I know dynamat can get expensive, especially when it takes 3-4 rolls. but the end result of 80+ percent coverage is a much quieter ride than with 10%. I used strips of dynamat on all brackets under/ behind dash for rattling. and on those, I did not achieve such great coverage. and they are quiet. I think a running theme that I have upheld in this build is I have not paid any attention to any type of budget. I chose a mid 90's Honda because it is a tuner car with a plethora of aftermarket parts that come a dime a dozen. but that was the extent of trying to save money on build. and it worked out great. for a corvette, an axle is over $500. for my Honda, that part is $50. for a corvette, just one headlamp assembly is $700, but for my Honda, I can get 20 styles of sets of headlamps for under $100 a pair. when I build interiors in the corvettes, we usually try for as close to 100% coverage as we can get. and there is no mistaking the difference. I think at the end of the day, a minimalistic approach is just that. minimal. in the last handful of years, I have laid literally thousands of dollars of dynamat. for some of the most demanding of customers..... corvette owners.
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