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Thread: Stealth Install - Nexus7 + Alpine IDE178BT remote faceplate (concealed)

  1. #1
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    Stealth Install - Nexus7 + Alpine IDE178BT remote faceplate (concealed)



    Hi everybody - newly registered newbie here. I'm been lurking around for a few weeks getting tips from you guys, but I thought it was about time I joined and fed something back!

    My car is a VW Golf MKV. This is my first major project involving fabrication, but it seems to be going ok so far. I'll give you a quick rundown of what I've done up to now:

    First I took an Autoleads double din faceplate, added a universal insert trim surround and stuck them together with Araldyte.

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    Then I used some QuickSand UPOL to fill the big gaps.

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    I used UPOL primer filler spray to prime and fill

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    Before spraying with matt black plastic spray from Halfords

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  2. #2
    Low Bitrate
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    Nice

    Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    the next stage was making the nexus 7 fit inside the fascia - no easy task! after hours and hours of dremel work with cutting discs and sanding, I finally made enough room to fit the tablet in (correctly). When I wasn't fabricating, I was creating images on Photoshop to use as the background. The missus was on the verge of killing me (still is!)

    My original plan was to take the asus official nexus 7 dock and reduce its size to fit into the fascia, that way it would hold the tablet and provide charging and a 3.5mm aux out. Unfortunately I could not make it fit correctly, despite lots of trimming and chopping.

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    So, had to revert to plan b and get the soldering iron out:

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    I soldered four wires from cat-5 cable to the connectors that run to the pogo pins and hot glued them. Then i soldered the other end to the four pins from the dock that connect to the pogo pins and used hot glue again. I also soldered onto the power switch flex and added two cat5 wires, so I can control turning the tablet on and off if required. I went crazy with hot glue and surrounded the tablet, which holds it in nicely. We don't get a lot of hot weather in England so this should be ok!

    I finally decided on a background too!

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  4. #4
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    a quick test fit whilst testing the stereo worked!

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    So I made the extension cable for the faceplate - I used the original female/male connectors (ordered from dtronix) and soldered two lengths of cat5 cable to either end, making sure I was connecting the right pins together. I tested it with a multimeter several times, I found one faulty connection (1 out of 32 aint bad!)
    and resoldered that. Hot glue came out again and I went crazy. The soldering work on this part was a right pain, but patience is a virtue!

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    I tested the faceplate extension cable worked - when I connected it up (no pictures because I was using all of my body parts to hold everything together!) there was nothing. dead as a dodo. I then looked at the stereo body itself and saw a plastic lever that the faceplate must push it when its held normally, so I pushed that in and hey presto - it worked!

    I set about mounting the female connector onto a plastic housing. I wanted to motorise the faceplate, coming from a concealed area, so that thieves wouldn't know it was there. My car has a storage tray area above the dash:

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    and this was the plan:

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    the darker blue is the area for the dc motor / gears assembly, which will power a rod with two bevel gears at the end.
    the green areas are for the nut assembly which is connected to a threaded rod, turned by the bevel gears.
    the purple area is the faceplate/plastic housing.
    the light blue lines are the connector to the back of the plastic housing.

    quick mock up in paint:

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    basically when the nut moves forward, the lid will be lifted by the connecting rod/metalwork to the nut. this will in turn align the faceplate. Works in theory...

    Started testing in practice:

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    I had to move a couple of the nuts away from the metalwork, the noise was irritating!

  5. #5
    Variable Bitrate camo.b's Avatar
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    Looking forward to reading more.also what is the launcher your using?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by camo.b View Post
    Looking forward to reading more.also what is the launcher your using?
    thanks. I'm using nova launcher to remove the dock and arrange the widget grid.
    Desktop visualiser allows you to create clear widgets which I have created where the 7 logo areas are.
    I also had to use an app called soundabout to control the sound output because after I soldered the dock wires onto the tablet, the dock option in the sound menu was greyed out - apparently a common problem. soundabout app allows you to force all sound output through the dock wiring. great app!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cerbera84 View Post

    ... I wanted to motorise the faceplate, coming from a concealed area, so that thieves wouldn't .....

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    man u r brilliant. i tried to tthink myself what you have done while i was looking a way to install my lcd. but i got terrified of what i was thinking to do so i sayed what the .... my hand is pretty ok too..

  8. #8
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    quick update guys - been slow progress at the minute, my girlfriend is due to give birth any day now so had to halt work on dash install. I have installed the tablet into the car with the headunit stashed behind for the moment:

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    this will allow me to find my way to the hospital maternity ward!

    I am currently working on the top cover of the dash tray to hold the remote faceplate - I'm working on it every chance I get so should hopefully have a decent update for you soon!

    I'm at work right now but will post some pictures of my revamped mechanicals and dash cover tray later on. thanks for reading!

  9. #9
    Raw Wave treetop777's Avatar
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    Great idea to extend the faceplate wires. Exactly what i want to do and was scratching my head but this gives me an idea that it would probably easier to solder the wires from behind. Thanks for sharing.
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  10. #10
    Constant Bitrate AutoWiz's Avatar
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    very nice. can't wait to see it completed.

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