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Thread: '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited.

  1. #21
    FLAC shakes's Avatar
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    for some mounting boards i didn't think the glass was necesary ... the bondo will just be used on those to fill in imperfections in the wood.

    however for my LCD bezel (will be much like this, only my cherokee isn't a grand) i was planning on using a fiberglass mat to get the basic shape and build the strength ... then use bondo to fill in.

    should i even use the blue can then? on top of the fiberglass mat?
    My JeepPC Install

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    "it's been agreed the whole world stinks so no one's taking showers anymore"

  2. #22
    Constant Bitrate
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    I added a few more photos of the bezel construction so you can see how it was done.

  3. #23
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    That is really beautiful work. I'm impressed. Very smooth with the bondo finishing. I'm assuming you sanded that thing over and over and over again right? I can't see any lumps or waves in the finish whatsoever. Did you use an orbital buffer or something? I'm about to mold a touchscreen into my hvac bezel also in my wrx and I need all the pointers I can get. I've worked with bondo before but I'm concerned that I won't be able to get it to look oem (like molded plastic) as in, very very clean and smooth. Any tips would be great.
    2002 Subaru WRX - Silver
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    -2004 rear conversion

  4. #24
    Constant Bitrate
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    Bondo is actually very easy to work with if you know what you are doing. I have auto-body experience so I am familiar with how to apply it without getting "lumps and waves".

    Absolutely do NOT use an orbital sander, as those will most certainly produce waves and shallow spots. The key is to use a small flat rubber sanding block with about 80 grit sandpaper to get the bondo the shape you want it.

    When you think you have it close, finish it up by wetsanding first with 220 grit. Then with 400.

    Next apply primer very liberally to make sure you fill in all the scratches, etc. After it dries, sand it very smooth(almost down to the bondo layer). It's OK if the bondo shows through in spots. Keep applying primer and wet-sanding it down with 400 grit util you get all the imperfections out.

    Once you've got it, apply one last coat of primer and get it nice and smooth with 500 grit making sure you don't sand through the primer anywhere. That is key. If you sand through the primer on an edge or corner, re-apply the primer to cover it up and then re-sand.

    Then paint. I used 3 coats.

    Hint: Be sure the bondo and primer layers are completely dry before attempting to sand them. Oh and lightly wet-sand with 500 grit between paint coats. Just enough to make it smooth.

    Enjoy! Let me know how it turns out.

  5. #25
    FLAC shakes's Avatar
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    thanks for the tips unsavory ... very helpful

    i'm going to start doing some bondo-ing this weekend ... gonna start on some flat pieces that will be used for mounting the mobo and such before i try something hard like my screen bezel. hopefully by the time i get to the screen i'll have had enough practice.
    My JeepPC Install

    "there are no stupid questions, just stupid people."

    "it's been agreed the whole world stinks so no one's taking showers anymore"

  6. #26
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    Yeah I think I'm gonna buy some bondo now and just work with it making nonsense pieces just so I can get the technique down. Not to be an annoyance or anything but could you explain how to apply it without getting "lumps and waves". The thing I'm most concerned about is getting air bubbles trapped in there so when it dries and I sand there will be small holes or one big hole and I'll have to refill again and again. Thank you so much for the tips, very helpful.
    2002 Subaru WRX - Silver
    -FP18G turbo
    -Walbro fuel pump
    -Modified OEM 840 CC Injectors
    -TurboXS: UTEC, turboback, uppipe, intake
    -Blitz FMIC
    -STI cluster
    -17"x7.5" SSR Competitions
    -Tein Flex coilovers
    -NOS 50 shot
    -2004 rear conversion

  7. #27
    FLAC shakes's Avatar
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    wherever you buy the bondo they shuold sell a pack of plastic putty spreader tool deals ... for like $2 ... get some of them then just spread it on like butter.

    don't worry about making it totally smooth when you first apply it ... you'll go crazy trying to get it smooth from the start ... that's what sandpaper is for
    My JeepPC Install

    "there are no stupid questions, just stupid people."

    "it's been agreed the whole world stinks so no one's taking showers anymore"

  8. #28
    Variable Bitrate
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    nice install
    New CarPC on the way again I think. I miss my old one!!!

  9. #29
    Constant Bitrate
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    Yeah, an applicator like Shakes is talking about is what I always use. Also, make sure you apply it quickly and then leave it alone. As the bondo starts to cure, it will get very tough to work with. You really only have about 30 seconds or so to work with it once you've added the hardener. You want to apply it while it is still the consistency it was in the can.

    Resist the temptation to keep going back over the layer with your applicator to try and make it perfect. That's what gets you every time.

    As long as you get that bondo applied when it is still very runny, the bubbles will fill themselves for the most part.

    Good luck.

  10. #30
    FLAC Pudge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by unsavory
    I'm using the EPIA-M10K. These pics are mainly there to showcase the screen install.Cheers.
    Very nice install, great screen install.

    ::edit:: Once again, my need for wit has backfired ::edit::
    My Carputer! (More Car Pics at the end)
    2 Kicker Comp 10"
    Epia M-9000, 256 MB DDR, 120 Gig HD
    Lilliput 7" VGA Touchscreen
    Check it out?!

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