Looking for advice. Pictures are here of my options: Opinions and advice on screen placement sought.
Pipe in if you've got any opinions or better ideas.
I am feeding my addiction by adding on to the features. I bought CoPilot Live a couple of weeks ago. Got a pretty good price from Mp3car.com. (Thanks )
I had some issues with the USB reciever that came with it. The first day of using it was horrible. It took forever to get a 3D lock. I thought about returning it and then something wierd happened. It just started working. I get a 3D lock on average in less than 2 minutes. Its worked great ever since then. Very Odd.
ALK's customer service absolutely SUCKS though. I have submitted a couple of support requests both via E-mail and a form on ther support site almost 2 weeks ago. Still no response. I have some Font issues I would like to resolve and one feature request but it is like talking to a wall.
Overall I am happy with the interface and the speed with which it recalculates routes. I do wish you could select a destination simply by tapping a map location but they make you select a POI or address everytime.
On the other hand, its POI (Points Of Interest) database is extremely incomplete and organized poorly. Try finding a Restaurant in there and you have a 1 in 4 chance of it being in the database. The only 2 categories they give for type are 1) Fast Food or 2) All. Ug. I have a NAVMAN that allows me to pick 14 diffrent types of restaurants.
I will post some screen shots tonight for those that want an idea of how it looks.
I also bought the USB Radio Xtreme based upon Izik and Frodo's recommendation. Now just have to wait 3 weeks for delivery.
My plan is to relocate the screen in the dash and lose the head unit in favor of an AMP.
Someone PM's me about my wiring diagram. Here is a little more detailed info for anyone thinking about a similiar setup.
Not a good idea as it would be a constant drain on your battery. Might be minimal draw but still not good if you let it sit for long periods.Ok im gettin really confused now. If i wire my t3 and monitor using the items in your diagram to a duel cig lighter.... Couldnt i just wire the cig lighter adapter to a constant, so i can have power to both all the time?
The way I have mine set up the ITPS automatically sends a Pulse to the power button of the PC (which is set up in XP to hibernate when the power button is pushed) when I turn my key off and after about a minute cuts the power to the cigarette adaptor.I want to always leave my computer in hybertate/sleep mode so when i get in my car i can touch the screen and it will wake and not have to wait so long for it to boot up.....OR does it just not work like that?
When I start the car it applies power to the PC/screen and then sends another Pulse to start the PC. I have optimized my PC so that it takes between 15 and 20 seconds from the time I turn my key to when I am fully loaded on playing music. (Frodoplayer)
The ITPS is not designed for Standby mode cause it cuts the power after a minute and Standby mode requires constant power. Also the Cappuccino PC I have only supports Hibernate mode.
I wired a jumper and external switch across the power button for the Lilliput so that the screen comes on automagically too. I hear that the Xenarc supports this natively.
Got me. I would take it to a local electronics repair shop.Im not really good with soldering, is there anyone on the site that would possible do it if i send the stuff to them? Id pay them.
Switched means power that is only there when the KEY is ON or in Accesory mode. Unswitched is always ON.I kinda understand your diagram. Switched as in like acc wire in the radio and unswitched a constant? THen please tell me about the cutoff switch in the power line going to the cig lighters.
The Cutoff switch stops power from going to the PC if I dont want to start the PC when I start the car.
PLus i dont see a place for the momentary push button in this pic of the itps.
See the little black plug in the upper right corner of your picture? It is a jumper connector. Your ITPS should come with the leads that connect to it.
Hope this helps.
I've got a sport trac to and I am about to do something similar to ur setup where did u take the switched and unswitched wires from?
havent taken the head unit out yet was wondering which wire off of it I need for my ITPS. Will once I get the audio switcher for the head unit. Cant decide if I want to fiberglass it yet or not. Have you thought more about fiberglassing yours? But i have a shuttle and I took the console out today and I think I might be able to break the shuttle down and put it all in there which would be bad ***.
See this link for wiring on a sport trac: http://www.zjstech.net/~library/4358/Radiowiring.htmOriginally Posted by masher
The Yellow/Black wire is switched.
Its a tight fit behind the head unit. No way is a shuttle pc going to fit back there. Also heat would be a major concern with an PC mounted in a tight space.
I have been exploring the fiberglassing option. See this link: Opinions and advice on screen placement sought.
I went ahead and bought the silver griffin powermate at Compusa for 40 dollars. It works great. Very frodoplayer friendly. I programmed Press and turn=volume up/down, press once=mute/toggle, turn right=next track, and turn left=pause/toggle. Make sure you DO NOT use the built in Frodo volume keys though. When a key is pressed it shoots up or down the volume until you press the key again. Just use the built in powermate functions for doing the same thing.
Install is a little tricky on XP. READ THE INSTALL DIRECTIONS and you will have no issues.
I find myself using it more than the touchscreen because I dont have to take my eyes off of the road.
I changed my settings on it too. Got rid of pause. I use the right and left turn for prev/next song, short click for toggling shuffle mode, click and twist for volume up/down and long click for mute. Works best that way IMHO.
Nice thing about the Powermate is that it is configurable per application. When I switch to copilot, the right and left twist are volume. I am probably going to make click and twist zoom in and out.
I attached it with velcro and a little bit of superglue. That rubber bottom wont stick to the adhesive that was on my velcro.
Well I am suffering from redoitis. Cant seem to stop myself. Everytime I think Its done, I change it again. Tossed the head unit and installed an amp. Relocated the screen into the dash.No bondo for me. I think it looks fine just the way it is.
Here are some pics:
Much easier to see now too. Dont have to take my eyes off the road.