The ground loop isolator is good, but it will get rid of only half the noise..
Well I guess no one has tried to set up an ITPS with this configuration so i'll be the guinea pig. I dont think there should be an issue cause the 12v all comes from the same place. Hopefully it wont feedback into the ITPS from the output side. I'll post my results later. Hopefully it wont be a picture of a smoking ITPS.
Stop me now if you think this is a bad idea.
Don't Fear The Gurkey
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The ground loop isolator is good, but it will get rid of only half the noise..
00 Saturn SL2, boosted @ 8 psi - CarDomain
Newest install - my quickest ever
My 2nd carputer - b4 I broke the touchscreen
My very first carputer - voted the most ghetto
Thanks to the guys in this thread. They have solved my problem. Here is the diagram MikeH made of how it will work:Originally Posted by wkolodny
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Don't Fear The Gurkey
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Decided to add an LED to indicate when the ITPS override mode is active. I don't want to screw up and let my battery drain down.
The circuit will look like this:
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Don't Fear The Gurkey
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Well I havent had time to add the ITPS override switch yet but I have an update for the Radio Xtreme:
I decided to go ahead and pick up an FM amplifier in my search for better radio reception. I was told on another thread not to bother because it wouldnt make much difference but I went ahead and bought this 20db amp from buy.com anyway. It was pretty cheap. Only 16 dollars shipped. The amp that arrived looks nothing like the picture.I would have to give Radio Xtreme a grade C overall. It is alot better than D-Link but still no where near as good as a real receiver. It is better than no radio at all. I may have to bring back the head unit though.
It was easy to install. I just plugged car antenna plug into the amp and the plug that came out of the amp into my jury rigged Radio Xtreme connector. I then wired the red lead to 12v switched.
Not much in the way of controls. Just one big power button on the front and a red LED.
Here is the top side of it.
My results were great in terms of receiving previously inaudible stations. Go to this URL for a little audio visual demo:
http://members.cox.net/wkolodny/demo.htm
You will hear some garbled noise and then I press the power button. Pretty cool. Stations that had a constant amount of static became much clearer. Overall it makes for a much better experience in this regard.
The downside is that it had little to no affect on stations that I already received reasonably well. There are still random bits of static that have not gone away. Dont get me wrong though because I am much happier now that I can use the radio for most of the stations I used to get on my head unit.
Overall with the 20DB amp I would now give the Radio Xtreme a B-. I highly recommend this amp to anyone who wants to receive more stations.
Don't Fear The Gurkey
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Fixed the demo link above. Try it again.
Don't Fear The Gurkey
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Thanks for the tip. One question, though. Why would you want to disable voltage regulation?Originally Posted by wkolodny
For some reason the PC and screen were not getting enough power. I don't know if the ITPS's built in regulator was limiting the amps but for whatever reason the screen was washed out and the PC just made a buzzing noise. Its no biggy though because the Lilliput comes with a little Egg shaped regulator and I am using a laptop regulator to power the PC.Originally Posted by asci01
Don't Fear The Gurkey
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Again, thanks for your detailed install instructions. I have some questions.Originally Posted by wkolodny
Why run the screen through the ITPS?. The cigarette ligher is a switched connection, isn't? so your screen is turn off when you turn off the engine as opposed to the 45 sec ITPS delay and because your screen power button is shorted, it will come on automatically anyway when you turn the engine on, right? Also, you have a bypass switch for the shorted power button for the screen, so if you don't want it to come on, just flip the switch and it won't turn on automatically, right?
Last question: I understand that when you short the screen power button you can't control the screen with the display buttons. If this is the case, can you at least control it with the remote?
Thanks for all the help !
I thought about doing it that way but this way hopefully puts less strain overall on the screen because it doesnt get a surge of voltage while starting the truck. It comes on after the engine is going. I can also monitor the PC shutdown for occasional hibernation issues. If the monitor shut off when I turned the key I wouldn't be able to see if it shutdown properly. It will also work out well when I wire up my ITPS override switch.Why run the screen through the ITPS?. The cigarette ligher is a switched connection, isn't? so your screen is turn off when you turn off the engine as opposed to the 45 sec ITPS delay and because your screen power button is shorted, it will come on automatically anyway when you turn the engine on, right? Also, you have a bypass switch for the shorted power button for the screen, so if you don't want it to come on, just flip the switch and it won't turn on automatically, right?
Yes the remote does work fine when the button is shorted out. It's just not always handy. Kind of small and easy to misplace.Last question: I understand that when you short the screen power button you can't control the screen with the display buttons. If this is the case, can you at least control it with the remote?
Don't Fear The Gurkey
Click here to check out My Setup
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