Thread: 2004 Toyota 4runner

@Rando: Nice. I'm just about to start building a similar system into a Celica GT4 using an SP7 and an M10k, and an Opus, in the other thread, you mentioned using relays, so I dug this out. Very Sweet.

@Keggerman: I hope to be able to get everything into the double din space behind the screen if I lose the cupholders. I using sheet steel for the case (1mm bought sheet, and 2mm for the sides from the from off a grill from an old cooker that needs to be dismantled to go to the dump) should be rigid enough and allow more space than using MDF.

@Rando: I like your thinking on using the harness. I'm planning similar as the last owner of the car supplied me with the Toyota->ISO adaptor that I can hack into for speaker -> AMP -> PC, and for things like ACC and amp/antenna remote lines.

Rando, I see that you use Audigy 2 NX. Does it power up automatically (as Windows loads or as MOBO powers up, etc)?

The Audigy is powered from the Opus so it only comes on when the motherboard powers up.

rando - what did you ever end up doing with the vents under your amp? I'm going to install one there also.

I installed the amp on top of the duct using a bit of MDF under the corners of the AMP (under the carpet) so it would sit flat. I screwed the amp into the MDF with the carpet sandwiched between so ultimately the carpet is the only thing holding the amp in place. I didn't want to put any screws into the body.

I've been having intermittent USB detection issues at boot. Sometimes my audigy isn't detected, other times it's the touch screen, other times it's all USB devices. Also I've had some waves in my Lilliput that I've been unable to correct though they appear to be some kind of noise associated with the Audigy.

I decided to upgrade the size of my regulated power wires. I was using dual 18G strands to bring the 5V and 12V from the Opus back up front to my USB hubs and Audigy (about 14ft). I've inserted 10GA for those now so hopefully that should get the resistance low enough that it can't possibly be a problem.

Also I was using two 4port USB hubs before and a single 12ft USB wire from the computer. Now I'm using all four built-in USB ports and 10ft wires. I'll put the Audigy and touch screen on their own dedicated USB runs to eliminate any issues with their drivers not liking my hubs. iMic, GPS, and Card reader will go onto a hub. The 4th run will sit tucked away awaiting Seth's radio.

I'll take some pictures of this mountain of cables if i get a chance. There's not much room left in the wiring tunnels under my door sills.

i am setting up my carputer soon... doing more and more research every night (as opposed to leveling up in halo 2)

I love the idea you have w/the OEM radio brackets w/the tv screen.

Do you have more pictures on the creation/finished product of the screen setup? that would be great!


My setup will have the carputer under a seat, probably passenger. Only thing necessary in there is lots of usb, and i have a few extra 2.0 usb PCI cards.

My usb setup will have only the touch screen and external sound card directly into the pc mobo. I will run either a hub or 4 individual wires to the center dash silver piece, right under the hazard lights flush mounted. this way i can plug and play my garmin, my jump drive, an external dvd-rw, keyboard, mouse, blue tooth/wireless dongle, or keypad.

Any concerns if i have a 150w opus for those devices? my comp will have an internal 80gig 5400 3.5" HD, the mobo, and the usb pci cards. everything else will be from this usb setup. How do you think the 150w will do with power?

i plan on running the rca's from external sound card/computer under the seat to the back where i will either tap into or replace the oem amp, and add a sub.

We may also just fiberglass the spare xenarc case to the center dash piece.

Any suggestions?

Since my truck has been in pieces for 2 weeks now while I redo the wiring, I decided to give the M1-ATX a try. I just received it today and it fits perfectly into my C134 case. This should make the installation in the rear cubby look totally clean -- just a single box with wire bundles connected to it. Hopefully the M1-ATX is up to the task of powering all this stuff.

I also decided enough was enough with the Lilliput waves and stripped it of it's factory wiring and the goofy 9 pin VGA/USB cable. In their place I'm soldering on a standard 15 pin VGA cable (with ferrite ring), a USB Type B female connector and a standard 4 pin molex connector for power. Each will be about 6" long so all my connections can be made up in the dash. I'm also planning to line the back of Lilliput casing with some sort of ground foil in hopes of reducing any harmful radiation that might be causing intermittent problems with my door lock remote.

more to come

Rando - re. the 5v USB standby:

Can you disable the USB standby voltage on your mobo? Many have that jumper, and it would seem that if you disabled it on the mobo, the PS wouldn't pull any current since it wouldn't be supplying anything.

Just a thought.