1993 Nissan 240sx install
This a fairly textbook install, but I thought I might as well document it now that I have some pics. (Thanks to Mikephotos02X for taking pics for us at the LI meet with his insane camera.)
Components of interest:
7Ē Lilliput w/TS
Audigy 2 NX
D-Link USB radio
Linksys 54g PCI wifi card w/ cheap wifi antenna off Ebay
30g 2.5Ē Hitachi drive
Plain ATX MB (I think itís a DFI) w/ PIII 933
Phoenix Gold Octane-R 8.0:4
Case: Plastic container for CDs I found at Walmart
Thatís an EQ above the Audigy. I use that just for the subs but hopefully itíll be eliminated soon.
I was stunned to find that the Lilliput fits perfectly with NO CHANGES to the stock bezel. I mean, I had to stick some washers and pieces of foam on there. Later, I was forced to jam a penny under one corner of the screen. Everything you see here is stock.
Iím sure you noticed that the buttons are covered. I never use any of them except the power button for which I made an extension. If you look below the Lilliput, to the lower left, thatís the new power button (yes, that tiny speck). The Lilliput is also coyote modded.
That mini-din you see here is gone because I was getting some ghosting with it. Iím now using plain VGA and USB extension cables. I wish I had a few better pictures, but I wasnít thinking of this thread when the man with the camera was around.
Media Engine (I will never use a Windows Media based audio player. Sorry Frodo.)
Mappoint 2004 (Yeah, Iím going to get something new soon.)
This is a trunk install. There were many wires ran and re-ran over several months. Hopefully, this little explanation of my wiring will save someone some work.
I had a free RMS wire that was previously ran from the deck to the amps in the trunk and thatís what I used to control a 12v+ relay located near the amps. A three-way switch determines whether the relay is connected to the IGN wire, a constant 12v+ line, or nothing at all. The relay, in turn, is connected to the RMS on my amps and the OPUS. I had to use a relay because my amps were turning off when I wired the RMS to everything directly.
The Lilliput is powered with the egg. I got rid of horizontal flickering by running a new ground for it and also grounding the outer shielding of 9-pin mini-din coming from the Lilliput. (I just wrapped a wire around the outside of the connector and then stuck into the VGA/USB cable.)
I have three USB extension cables ran from the carputer (in the trunk) to beneath and behind the ashtray in the center console. My USB devices all connect to either a hub or extension cable at this point (except for the Audigy, which is near the amps). The hub is for my D-Link, ShuttleExpress and Earthmate. Itís powered by a cigarette lighter adapter from Radioshack which is completely hidden adjacent the hub. The mouse and keyboard are in the glove compartment. The keyboard actually has a hub on it, so the mouse is connected to that while the keyboard itself is connected to one of the extension cables. Having a hub right on the keyboard also leaves another port exposed for use with a USB thumb drive or other device. Since the hub is on switched power, when I turn the ignition completely off, it too shuts off. This prevents my GPS from signaling thieves with a blinking LED while my car is off. Some devices do not take well to being powered on an off without a reboot which is why the Lilliput touch screen utilizes the remaining extension.
The 6' VGA Extension cable is ran this way as well, connecting to the Lillputís VGA/USB cable right behind the rear ashtray in the center console.
All new wires ran to the trunk. I donít have much to say about that except: I never want to do it again.
The D-link is behind my Lilliput so I used the original RCA cables that ran from my deck to connect the D-link to my line-in.