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Thread: alpine, mcintosh & chopped up liquid cooled dell++

  1. #111
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    do you need to........ almost everything you'll see on this site is not really about need.... there is a huge difference with an upgraded backlight.... & yes, it can make the difference between usable & unusable in daylight....

    only you can decide if you feel the need....... I did need to do this.... only because if I didn't I wouldn't have it, & I wanted it.... want converts to need if you want it bad enough I guess.....

    the difference with a super bright screen is literally night & day, pardon the pun

  2. #112
    Variable Bitrate HHdesign's Avatar
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    Oh my god, did you use a name brand damper (dynamat, brownbread) or did you go the peel n seal route?
    Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo
    Kenwood X790 x/ iP500 Ipod Interface
    Elemental Designs 13Kv.2 D2
    CDT ES-620 (omg yayay!!!1)
    NINe.2X, NINe.2

  3. #113
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    I used mostly brown bread & a few differnt types of padding.....aluminum backed foams... the whole ceiling is brownbread outer skin, then a 1" acoustic foam, then headliner covered in suade... it sounds like a wooden roof when it rains.... the firewall & engine area has a layer of thermal padding added.... theres still a few things to be added.... when I recarpet the truck I'm going to put a layer of lead sheet on the floor.......

  4. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbocad6
    when I recarpet the truck I'm going to put a layer of lead sheet on the floor.......
    Aside from all the sound deadening material, that van is going to need some sort of suspension upgrade! I've just gotten through reading this thread from the beginning for the second time and all I can say is WOW!
    I'm in the market for a new car, and it's bad enough that I'm basing it (partially) on how well an 8" xenarc would fit into the dash. Now I'm looking at how a 12-14" lcd from a laptop would fit in there!

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  5. #115
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    not really, this is just like installing a drop kit I'm going to redo all the struts though as the oem ones are not to hot at 35k mi. I wouldn't mind it coming down even a little lower about 1/2" or so...... this truck is the shorter wheelbase so it's the lightest one..... even with all of my equiptment & sound deading it's still lighter than a long wheelbase 4wd model, doesn't feel heavy in a bad way really

    screen placement is a primary concern when choosing a vehicle if you know you are going to install I think..... I also choose to buy or not to buy depending on how well the front doors are receptive to speakers....if I can't fit at least an 8" in the door then I don't by the car it's hard to build a great front stage with only 6 1/2's in the doors

  6. #116
    Constant Bitrate AWDNUT's Avatar
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    Loads of work on this van man! I went with brown bread too but kept things much more stock than you did. Really love your workplace there, I'm in the wrong profession to act out my modding fantasies!

    You still working out the backlight or was the last pic final? It still looked like work in progress?

    I don't know how much bass you think is enough for the front of the car (it is omni-directional) but go listen to a set of Boston Z6s.. I'm using the slightly less insane pro version, but they definately do the trick in a mid-size car. (I don't even have pods and they hit so hard that they sorta make your leg fieel wierd on a long trip of bass shaking your pant leg)

    Plus they have really dropped in price, you had to pay around $1200 CAN for a pair, but I see them online for as low as $650 US ($775 CAN)!

  7. #117
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    the backlight is still under construction.... I've been so busy I haven't had a chance to finish it.....I hope to finish in the next couple of weeks though..... I'm having a problem findind 1/4" copper elbows for the plumbing, I bought all I could find in one store & I still need a few more.... most places don't have 1/4" as it's mostly only used for air conditioning.... I can't final install until I get the plumbing done for the liquid cooling.... don't want to fry anything

    I like my bass up front.... a pair of 6 1/2's can do nicely, but 8"s is where it starts to get really nice..... of course with more bass in the doors comes more problems with resonation/vibrations & air pressure leaks, but I enjoy the difference it makes.... the 10's in the door are pretty awsome, I know what you mean about vibrating you pant leg.... the 10" illusion audio's in my doors were from ebay & only cost me around $350 for the pair...... these things are pretty increadable, but a lot of work to get in there right.... my doors play really low & the system sounds great even with no sub in the rear.... when someone sits in my car & feels the bass they can't belive I have no sub in the rear....this is defanatly the best sounding front stage I have ever heard, & I've heard & played with quite a few competition cars.... but I am working on the rear sub which will make it really nice

  8. #118
    Constant Bitrate AWDNUT's Avatar
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    You do have something other than the 10" subs up front right? Like some mids and tweeters?

  9. #119
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    yeah, just a pair of illusion audio ch-1 compression drivers under the dash, there kinda like tweeters, but more than that really as they play from like 650 hz & up.... these horns are pretty sick, there like the image dynamic pro competition horns, only a little better.... when these were available they got reviews as being the best horns ever produced, they listed for like $1,200 ...

    got these off ebay for around $300 (I love ebay), these horns are awsome for imaging & provide an awsome soundstage... I love them so much that I grab any set that I come across.... I have three sets of these & they only made 1,000 sets total.... I want these in all my cars forever... they do require 1/3 octave equalzation, but as long as you have the room for them they make getting a great front stage foolproof to a certain extent..... there super efficient & only run 60w rms, but they are loud enough to hurt your eardrums at max....there rated at like 96 db@1 watt sensitivity, pretty hard to beat.....I love my horns

    the doors play up to 650 hz no problem... with the 10's I was affraid I might have a dip at the cross over freq, & might need to add a third driver to fill the transision, as the doors are playing up to there max freq & the horns down to there min, but no problems in this install at the x-over point, as I was able to tune it to a perfectly flat response with the rta

    I'm glad I didn't have to go three way, as that can be a real ***** to tune.... this two way set up is really sweet... can't wait to get the rear sub permanently installed... then this will be one awsome system

  10. #120
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    one thing to keep in mind with door speakers is not that you really need a lot of bass, but they are very important for the upper bass & midbass area... a 6 1/2 may play well down to like 80 hz or a little better before going 3db down, but a set of 8"s will play down to like 63 at least.... these 10's go all the way down to 30 & better before going 3db down, & will play a test tone at 12 hz

    the lower the doors play the lower you can cross the subs over... subs crossed at 63 hz will have no rear presence at all, at 70 very little, at 80 a bit more, & by the time you reach 90-100 it has a definate rear location, meaning you can distictively locate the subs behind you with your ears..... not a good thing for sound quality........

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