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Thread: 2005 Mustang Coupe V6 Install

  1. #11
    Maximum Bitrate XxAndyxX's Avatar
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    Dec 2003
    Edmond, Oklahoma
    Very clean install! Great job!

  2. #12
    Constant Bitrate john94587's Avatar
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    Sep 2005
    Bay Area, CA
    Nice Install, I like how you use the external cover over the Mechanik's bezel.

  3. #13
    Constant Bitrate 2 STanGeR's Avatar
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    Aug 2005
    Terre Haute, IN
    I updated my document with new parts that I just ordered today. I am still trying to find time to answer your questions, kjhokie. I promise I will get them answered tonight.

  4. #14
    Newbie kjhokie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    2 STanGeR,

    thanks dude! Sure appreciate you taking the time to give me the info I need. You did one of the best and cleanest looking installs I have seen.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Great install 2 STanGeR! Very profressional looking job!
    I thought I might chime in to help out kjhokie.
    Most places may have a Ford wiring harness but they typically don't have the wires to get the subs in the doors working. The one from Crutchfield that 2 STanGeR recommended is really the only place that has this harness with the extra wires for the subs.

    Also note that if you're using an aftermarket headunit the voltage requirement may be different. You'll know it if you hear a popping sound coming from the subs whenever the stereo is powered on. To prevent this get a regulator from Radio Shack. The one I use for my Avic N2 is 12 to 5 volt regulator (Part# 276-1770) and this will eliminate that noise. Get it at

    When you put a computer in the vehicle one thing to be aware of is that when the "line out" from the PC and the cables are run to the head unit to output the sound to your speakers there may be an aggravating humming sound that might even be overbearing and make the audio from the computer indiscernable. This primarily occurs when all the power cables are not grounded to the same spot in the vehicle or the audio cable is run too close to a power cables causing interference. A few good things to try to remedy this are moving the audio cables further away from the power cables and purchasing a ground loop isolator (Part# 270-054) from Radio Shack.
    In most cases trying both of these should help the situation.

    I don't know if you're planning on putting in an alarm system but here's some information that may help someone else reading this if you're not.
    Here's the Mustang wiring diagram (it says 2006 but it's the same for 2005's)

    It should help significantly in the install process if your installer doesn't already have it.

    Also of note is that if the alarm has the ability to remote start the vehicle you will need an immobilizer bypass module since the mustang won't start unless a chip in the key is present to validate the start process. There are a few different kinds of bypass modules available. The 791 bypass requires a spare key be used (and kept in the unit) to perform the remote start. This can be a problem in that the key can be removed and used to start the car so some choose to cut the key length to deter this from happening. There is another bypass unit (556SW) by a company called "Directed". This unit houses a key (blank with transponder chip) already in it . You can pick one up from Circuit City for about $150 but I've seen it as cheap as $40 elsewhere. Use to find the best price. The unit from Circuit City is called "Ford Encrypted PATS Remote Start Interface Module (556SW)" and can be found here:
    Also if you need an additional spare key just to get into the car (main key locked in car) because you don't have the "Keyless Entry Keypad" ( you'll pay about $70 at the Ford dealership however you can pick up a blank OEM key with transponder chip here $25 ( and have it cut and it can be the spare just to get into the car but won't start it unless you have it programmed (requires 2 already working keys).

    You can get additional remotes with programming instructions here

    Everyone here may already know all this but in case there is someone that doesn't I hope it would help.

  6. #16
    Constant Bitrate WarningSLO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    San Diego, CA
    Still saving money for my Mustang Carputer, but all this info is very helpful. Hopefully I will have info to share with the community once my install gets started. Thanks guys.
    My Worklog
    2006 Tungsten Grey GT | Dark Charcoal Leather | 18" Fanblades | Spoiler Delete
    C&L Intake | Bullitt Mufflers | MGW Short-throw Shifter | MGW Interior Pieces

  7. #17
    Constant Bitrate reiner15's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    nice clean install! i just noticed something that is a concern of mine before i mount an lcd into my center console... do you have a difficult time reading the lcd from that angle? mine will be similar, but a little closer. I notice you have dark tint on your windows but it still seems a bit washed out.
    My Site:
    My Car :

    Car Computer Alias - TekPC
    Current Progress - - Brainstorming

  8. #18
    Newbie kjhokie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    maxjet, great tips for troubleshooting future issues I am sure I'll have. Already have a stock security system install so I won't be messing with that.

    If anyone is interested I put together a quick website for my carputer. On this site I will host any diagrams, schematics or pictures that will help others on new mustang installs. Please check it out and let me have your feedback or any thing you would like me to host.


    Oh yeah, if you need a diagram on how to remove the dash, center console or stereo I have put all the diagrams that I have found thus far on my site. Hope it helps someone.

  9. #19
    Constant Bitrate 2 STanGeR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Terre Haute, IN
    kjhokie, to answer your questions:
    I had the Shaker 500 orginally, which had to be replaced once. I am still currently trying to figure out how to get the subs to work with the AMP. I haven't really had time to look into the problem, but I believe it is because each sub has an AMP in the door. I think I have to hook up the wires to turn those AMPs on as well, but I am not sure. I will get it figured out soon. The AMP is connected to the motherboard through the SPDIF Out directly into the SPDIF IN on the AMP. It works like a charm. I thought the stock speakers sounded fine when the Shaker 500 was working. The only difference I noticed now was when I played a song that wasn't ripped at a very high bit rate, which is normal.

    The Mechatroniks kit attaches to the Metra Dash kit, nothing extra to do.

    The Mechatroniks kit fits fine in the dash. I have yet to modify anything in the car. I actually have the Opus mounted underneath the PC in some of the extra space in the dash. It is pretty amazing as to how everything fits perfectly in the dash.

    reiner15, to answer your question:
    In really bright sunlight, it is a problem to see just about any LCD. The same applies here. The tint does help, but I am probably going to look into some kind of anit-glare film to cover the screen to help with visibilty.

  10. #20
    phc is offline
    Variable Bitrate phc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Nice job, good to see that you have enough room in back of the dash to connect the cables to the motherboard, something I can't do with the Subaru without serious modifications.

    Perhaps a black bezel would look better? If you want to try it, I'll send you one and you can swap it out.

    How do you mount/screw the whole thing in the dash?

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