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Thread: 2003 VW GTI 20th AE Work Log

  1. #41
    Maximum Bitrate sporty_drew's Avatar
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    I'm defenetly going to steal the lego idea for a project like this. It looks great i like the aluminum alot better than the black.
    1998 Camaro Worklog Starting over, New setup for 2010

  2. #42
    Constant Bitrate Jon-G's Avatar
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    hey cassidy, that looks amazing my friend you have done me proud! You also set the bar pretty high!

    I gave all my old lego stuff away years ago, can you let me know what parts i need to buy to replicate what you've done there? Any chance of a scetch of how you've mounted the arrangemtn to the back of the screen and radio cage? Im told my bezel is sat on my desk waiting for me so I can get cracking!

    Again excellent work my friend, if you do any dub shows and ppl ask where u got the bezel put em onto me as I have some spares

  3. #43
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    the main part of the movement i used was an old dvd tray. the motor originally on them was a little too weak, so i took one off an old VCR i had ( parts cam from a broken dvd VCR i got years ago. for the top, the hinging part, i have slots cut in the radio cage so when the screen moves out, is also moves down slightly ( this part took a while to figure out ) i did not want it to bind on the aluminum above. when i got it, i used a small amount of silicone around the touchscreen, making it 100% secure. then i used a similar amount on the LCD. i know silicone will do the job great, and should be semi permanent. if i really want to i can take it all apart. but i don't plan to. once i had the screen in place i used more silicone and attached a small straw on the back top corner to act as a housing for the aluminum rod the pipits on the radio cage, and can slide down. i have the touch controller, and backlight power also attached to the back. below that i have some flat legos siliconed on. the span the entire back of the screen, side to side, and are about 1 1/2 inches tall. then i have 4 pieces, normal lego hight, with the holes in them about 2 inches long. i used a grinder to take off the extra plastic around the holes so it could pivot correctly. all these 4 pieces are glued to the flat pieces slightly sticking down, with the holes lined up at the same hight as the movable arms and the small lego plastic + sticks (2 of them coupled together in the middle).

    for the movable arm, i used more flat pieces of legos to server as a spacer, and a guide rail for the tray. these flat pieces are glued to long pieces, about 5 or 6 inches long, and are glued and screwed to the moving part of the old cd rom tray.

    the pictures above have all the parts i used. i tried about 5 different methods to havening the screen move correctly, and have it strong enough. i used what i had around, i tried many methods, and it really depends on what you have available. from what i had originally designed this is about 400% better. it didn't really take me too long, less then a week of tinkering around after work.

  4. #44
    Constant Bitrate stangg172006's Avatar
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    legos!!! haha, way to be resourceful! great work man!
    '08 VW Rabbit S 2.5

    Carputer Progress:
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    In trouble...

  5. #45
    Constant Bitrate Jon-G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trititan View Post
    the main part of the movement i used was an old dvd tray. the motor originally on them was a little too weak, so i took one off an old VCR i had ( parts cam from a broken dvd VCR i got years ago. for the top, the hinging part, i have slots cut in the radio cage so when the screen moves out, is also moves down slightly ( this part took a while to figure out ) i did not want it to bind on the aluminum above. when i got it, i used a small amount of silicone around the touchscreen, making it 100% secure. then i used a similar amount on the LCD. i know silicone will do the job great, and should be semi permanent. if i really want to i can take it all apart. but i don't plan to. once i had the screen in place i used more silicone and attached a small straw on the back top corner to act as a housing for the aluminum rod the pipits on the radio cage, and can slide down. i have the touch controller, and backlight power also attached to the back. below that i have some flat legos siliconed on. the span the entire back of the screen, side to side, and are about 1 1/2 inches tall. then i have 4 pieces, normal lego hight, with the holes in them about 2 inches long. i used a grinder to take off the extra plastic around the holes so it could pivot correctly. all these 4 pieces are glued to the flat pieces slightly sticking down, with the holes lined up at the same hight as the movable arms and the small lego plastic + sticks (2 of them coupled together in the middle).

    for the movable arm, i used more flat pieces of legos to server as a spacer, and a guide rail for the tray. these flat pieces are glued to long pieces, about 5 or 6 inches long, and are glued and screwed to the moving part of the old cd rom tray.

    the pictures above have all the parts i used. i tried about 5 different methods to havening the screen move correctly, and have it strong enough. i used what i had around, i tried many methods, and it really depends on what you have available. from what i had originally designed this is about 400% better. it didn't really take me too long, less then a week of tinkering around after work.
    Right Im off to ToysRus v.soon so I can start playing with the mechanism then!

    Im pretty clear on mechanism to panel/radio cage attachment, can you give me a bit more information on how you acheived the hinge at the top? I understand it needs to run in a slot to allow it to drop as it comes out but cant quite get my head round where you cut this slot, and how the bar it pivots on attached to the cage Any chance of a quick sketch?

    Also does the mechanism foul the space in the radio cage where the cup holder goes? Iv gutted a spare cup holder and have mounted the DVDRW in there, do you think this will cause a problem? I assume you didnt go down this route as the anni edition plate you have there doesn't lift/personal preference to mount in the glovebox?

    Regarding the enamel you applied to the bezel, was this a powder and bake job or a spray can? If its a spray whos the manufacturer and what does the spec on the can asy its suitable for (as I probably be able to source the excact same that worked for you here in the UK!)

  6. #46
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    here is a link to a sketch i made. i hope it helps.

    its a big pic, so its easy to read. beware !

    http://www.theblackwabbit.com/pic/100_1043.JPG


    now, the space that the screen occupies on the radio cage is only the plastic that is on the bottom of the area, i had to cut it out so the ldc and touch screen would fit.

    for the enamel i got some duplicolor clear enamel. says right on the front that it works on metal. i got it at a auto parts place, but you might be able to find someplace that has a large assortment of spay cans

  7. #47
    It ain't easy being a green moderator meddler's Avatar
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    Thread moved as requested.
    Never let the truth get in the way of a good story

  8. #48
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    with some trial and error i was able to complete my adjustable screen. it didn't take me too long less then a week of work after work = P but i have archived better then what i had originally designed. instead of the screen only locking into place at one spot, is automatically lock into place, mostly, in any spot. if you push hard enough it will retract, but its about 5x harder then you need to push to use the touch screen.
    how were you able to modify the movement of the lcd in a way that it locks up when you release the button?

  9. #49
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    its not really locking into place, i can move the screen manually, but i would have to push it and mean to do so. for the use of a normal touch screen, it will never move. so yes, and no. it is harder then pushing a cd rom tray back into a computer when the computer is off, i upgraded the motor. the cd rom tray i used had a worm drive on it, instead of a pulley, and a rubber band. i tried the pulley one, but it wouldn't push the screen hard enough. and a worm drive is more direct, and exact. and when the screen reaches its maximums it wont move anymore, and the motor is on 1/2 volts, i used a 12v motor and i'm only supplying 5v to it.

  10. #50
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    Hello, looks great! I am working on the game plan for getting this running for myself. Just curious if you used the tutorial here http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/faq-...nsoon-amp.html
    to connect the computer to your monsoon amp. or what did you do?
    this is the part that im not really understanding.

    thanks
    -sm

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