Thread: 1998 Camaro Install- lots of pics, rear seat delete

Ok, Thanks Jason.

I'm going to pick up a new battery tomorrow. Mines shot and I'm experiencing a HUGE voltage drop at my amps. Its not letting my amps and new x reach their potential.

The sealed Optimas are real sweet. No corrosion on the terminals, ever.

Originally Posted by JasonWW

The sealed Optimas are real sweet. No corrosion on the terminals, ever.

I thought he was going for a deep cycle? Or was he going to add a second battery? Some people use a yellow top as their starting battery.

Nice camaro any way I wish I had one

Originally Posted by moboman

I thought he was going for a deep cycle? Or was he going to add a second battery? Some people use a yellow top as their starting battery.

Nice camaro any way I wish I had one

I was looking at those Jason, but i'm going to get a generic battery for under the hood, and add the deep cycle in the back. I don't think i'm going to go with any big names for either because i can get a nice deal on both here in town.

Thanks for the kind words moboman. I'm trying to make it that way atleast

Are you going to isolate them? If not then they need to be identical to one another.

Yea they will be isolated from each other. I'm looking for something that'll only allow a trickle charge to the deep cycle for when it's completely dead. I don't want to try to start my car on the main battery and have a huge draw to the deep cycle battery. Any ideas?

BTW i picked up my main battery today 825 ca and 690 cca. A friend of my dads owns a construction company and has a nice discount (25% )

Are you going to use a diode type isolator? If so and your starter is wired to the main battery then I don't think it will draw from the rear battery during starting. The only thing is a diode type isolator is going to charge both batteries at the same time, so that's why they would need to be identical.

So were you going to use a solenoid type isolater so you can have manual control or what exactly?

Dual batteries are a pain, no doubt about it. A good, but expensive way is to run a dual output alternator, but they are very expensive. I haven't made up my mind yet, but if I run dual batteries, I'm also going to run dual alternators. It's a lot cheaper and you get a lot more power. There is room to mount the 2nd unit above the tensioner pulley. I have pics if you want to see them.

Jason, When you say the batteries are identical, are you saying that both ave to be regular starting batteries? Because for marine usage someone makes an isolator made that you use your alternator to charge a deep cycle for the trolling motor of your boat. Both batteries are not the same here.
I want 2 batteries too and I was planning on putting one in. I want to do a little more research now that you say they have to be the same.

Yea i would like to see those pictures. I was looking into the high output alternators, but i can get mine beefed up to a 150 amp and then get a second one done like that eventually. I think that would be better than a 200 amp high output.

I'm looking at a solenoid type isolater that would be relayed off the ignition. It would of course have a switch in between the ignition and the solenoid for when i want to turn the car on but not give power to that battery. With a solenoid type isolater you don't think that the power will try to flow into the deep cycle as soon as i give the solenoid power? I think the easiest thing to do is what you said with the dual alternators and have one for each battery. thats just more money what an expensive hobby and i also want to save for another x and one of these

Memphis 16-MCD2500 - Memphis 2500 x 1 Class D Subwoofer Amplifier

2500 watts x 1 RMS @ 1 ohm

or something with the same specs made by Us amps, Orion or a few others. I figure I need an amp that can give me the clean power that the x's need.