the reasoning for adding it would be to make it flow a bit more. I'm getting a 7202 or 7252 for the other side so it'll look the exact same. The reason i said fiberglass was so that i could make the whole thing one piece, but i would carpet it because i want it to just flow and not stand out. Why is it that you don't think it would make a difference by putting a cover on it?
Another idea would be to bring the box up a bit and sink the amps into the box( maybe at angles?), i would still bring it up to the sides.
Looking good there, one of the better out-of-case installations I have seen so far - quite tidy wiring, keep it up.
Luv it :)
Getting a matching amp will go a long way as far as looks go.
Originally Posted by sporty_drew
The reason I don't think a carpeted cover would make a difference is because it looks pretty good right now. It just seems almost impossible to get anything to blend into those side panels unless you mold them all together into a single piece.
Another thought, is to turn the sub around and then build up the middle part of the box about 3"-4" so that the magnet will actually fit into it. Then you could make a one piece, flush cover with cutouts over the amps to show them off. Is that an option or do you like having the sub magnet exposed?
Actually, I kind of like the smoked plexi cover.......
I was going to box mine and carpet, but now.......I may have to rethink that.
Also, I notice you have a dell. I'm using a dell optiplex 260. Did you have to check the pinouts for your PSU or is it a standard 20 pin atx connection?
it's a standard 20 pin.
Well as for the whole turning the sub around, I was looking at different subs last night an I'm thinking either 2 10" G5's or 1 12" G5. I know what you mean when it comes to blending something to the side panels, they have a weird curve.
How much air space is in that box? It looks like 1.2-1.5 cu ft.
Who makes the G5?
The box is 1.3 Ft^3
Boston Acoustics ~ here are the specs for both the 10's and the 12's
4 ohmsCone Material
FoamSealed Box Volume (cubic feet)
1Ported Box Volume (cubic feet)
2Port diameter (inches)
4Port length (inches)
NoDual Voice Coil
24 - 0.35k Hz
20 - 0.35k HzRMS Power Range (Watts)
100-450Peak Power Handling (Watts)
---Top Mount Depth (inches)
7 3/8Bottom Mount Depth (inches)
8 1/8Cutout Diameter or Length (inches)
I'm really leaning towards sticking with 1 12 so i can keep the amps on the sides. if i would do the 10's i would put the sub amp in the middle and the speaker amp on the back "wall" in the t-top holder.
Dang, in looking at the first post again I see you already mention the size of the box. Oh well, at least I guessed right. So both of those amps look like they can run 2 ohm stereo or 4 ohm mono. If you got the single 12" you could bridge the amp and run it 4 ohm mono for the most power. I like the single 12 idea, but the dual 10's should work well in that box too. For the 10's you'd need to get the dual 4 ohm version. Then you could wire both into a single 4 ohm load again. Is that what you were thinking?
It looks like a single amp could power one sub really well. 450 watt amp into 450 watt speaker.
I was actually thinking of getting the dual 4 ohm 12 and running it at 2 ohms, just set my gain accordingly. The 9102 can run 2 ohms mono and 4 ohms stereo. i could get the dual 2 ohm, but I've never like the wiring configurations for dual 2 lol.
I don't think they make the G5 subs in dual 2 ohm. I thinks it's either single 4 ohm or dual 4 ohm. The 9102 is a mono class D amp. It will run mono 2 ohm or higher, but not stereo.
It's true that you could get a single 12" in the dual 4 ohm style and then wire the coils in parallel for a mono 2 ohm load. Are you sure you want a class D amp, though? They kind of just flop the cone around with no real control over it. I always stick to class AB for good control and sound quality.