2010 Updates : Re-did my motherboard mounting, and will now be using a SATA drive. Using Lexan/Plexiglass instead of the weak, cracking acrylic sheets. Also picked up a Preassembled Black Double Din LCD Frame with 7" Lilliput 629GL-70NP/C/T
10/13/2009 : UPGRADED Motherboard to Intel D945GCLF2, created my own P4 power cable adapter, CDROM is now USB
8/21/2008 : UPDATED with newer pics,
My old project had to come out, due to me getting new seats for the car:
I've been known to cook hotdogs under the hood:
With this:
So I decided it was time to update my system anyway. So here are the specs on the new equipment:
VIA EPIA M10000 Motherboard
M2 ATX 160 Watt Power Supply/Shutdown Controller
Seagate Ultra ATA/100 5400 RPM, 8MB Cache 2.5 HD
Panasonic UJ-85J-B Slimline DVD drive/burner
Belkin Wireless G USB Network Adapter
Two Antec 80mm Case fans with Red LEDs
Here are some pictues of testing this week:
Loading iGuidance 3 again. This time I installed ALL states.
My project will end up looking quite similar to Ogold007's Lexus project in the glove box. I figured why re-invent the wheel, and time is very limited for me on this. He already has figured out a lot of the challenges that I face. I have to have this in the car, and working today.
More to follow!!
Well, I have the glove box ready, and everything arranged. As you can see, I don't have near as much room as Ogold007. I still need to cut the hole for the one 80mm cooling fan I am going to run for now. Now I just need to go run the power wires in the car:
what are you using to hold up the m2 in your glovebox?
Motherboard: Epox MATX
Power: M2-ATX
Storage: 120gb 3.5"
Optical: Slim Slot cdrw/dvd
Audio: SB Audigy 2
GPS: BU-353 & iGuidance 4
OS: Win FLP (Fundamentals)
Frontend: Roadrunner (DFX 3 & 4)
I am using motherboard stand-offs, with computer screws to hold the M2 up.
Just finished the initial install:
I still need to attach the 80mm fan to the side of the glove box. Yes, I know I need to clean the inside of my car out....
EDIT: Reconfiguration of the Hard Drive, got round IDE cables, and attached the 80mm fan!
EDIT: Added 2008 pics of Centrafuse, and changes:
Haltech HalWinX ECU Tuning Software Embedded for tuning my Haltech E6X:
Here is how I am getting audio from my Sirius satellite tuner:
Soundblaster Digital I/O module
D-Link DUB-H7 7-Port USB Hub, currently unpowered!:
EDIT 8/2008: I just made a power cord to power the D-Link Hub that runs off of the 5Volt rail from the power supply. I just went to Radio Shack to get the stuff I need, so I don't have to hack up the D-Link original adapter. You will need the Adaptaplug "M", and the 6-feet Adaptaplug cable that connects to the adapter. You will have to cut one end off, and use the guide on the back of the box to get the polarity right. With this setup, the wire with the white stripe is the "+" positive wire. The center of the tip for the D-Link plug is positive. Looking at the ATX power supply harness, I used the 5v red wire from pin 4 to power the + positive, and the black wire from pin 5 for the "-" negative.:
Wifi, via the Belikin Wirless G USB adapter:
2010 updates in progress
New Preassembled Black Double Din LCD Frame with 7" Lilliput 629GL-70NP/C/T. with Metra 99-7505 dash kit attached with 4mmscrews and washers. Should have gotten 6 mm screws...
2013 updates in progress
Ok, yesterday morning when I woke up, I noticed that I had a problem. My PC keeps rebbooting. Everytime it gets to the Windows XP logo, with the scrolling bar at the bottom, it reboots. Any idea of what that may be? It seems that my usb accessories (like my keyboard) don't function. The 7-port hub has power light, but the keyboard doesn't work. Hmm.. It did come with an transformer, but I am not using it right now. I may try a couple of things to troubleshoot this, but if anyone has any ideas let me know.
You just posted on mine. I have the M1200. I had a similar problem. With mine it was fixed when I did away the the HUB. Also, make sure you don't have any drives connected (i.e. USB)...Originally Posted by LinuxRacr
Start by regrounding. And I would ground to the frame, not the battery...use some sandpaper to ensure you are getting a good ground on whatever frame screw you choose. Then buy a ground loop isolater from Radio shack (like $18)....you should be good then...
In my years of experience dealing with computers I have had the experience that hard drives that are mounted vertical tend to fail faster than horizontal ones, this can be due to ball bearing having to deal with gravity and taking in consideration that this drive is going to be subjected to constant movement and vibrations its worth taking a look to the mounting position of it, again this is my own experience and I haven't researched for specific data...
Otherwise thumbs up looks great...
Cheers.
"Most of the users you'll see in this site are still learning specially me"
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