Where to buy
8" Lilliput (809GL-80NP/C/T)
Measurements and Internal Pictures
Update Your Drivers
- Monitor: Height 6 3/8" (162mm) x Width 8 1/16"(204mm) x Depth 1 1/2" (39mm)
- LCD Panel: Height 5 1/2" (141mm) x Width 7 3/16"(183mm) x Depth 1/2" (14mm)
Download the drivers here
Power consumption measurements and tech info
Powering your Lilliput from your Opus
- Ensure the DIN connector is fully plugged in.
- Try pinching/squeezing DIN connector (bad ground connection)
- Auto adjust
- Set refresh rate to 75Hz or higher to stop flickering
- Order a replacement ribbon cable (aka flexible printed cable) from www.digitalww.com.
- Ensure wires soldered to board
- Despite what the specs say on many of the auctions and even on the Lilliput website, the 618 and 619 do NOT support reverse X-axis or reverse y-axis (i.e. - to emulate a mirror or make image upside down). This is an error in their documentation.
- The 'USB' port on the side of the monitor isn't actually USB, it just looks like it. It's a special plug to give access to the auxiliary inputs (like RCA).
- The RCA audio-in only works when you're in one of the RCA video-in modes, not in VGA. You can't use it as a small PC speaker while in VGA mode.
- If you have no power going to your Lilliput (eg. led doesn't even light up)either the eggs is faulty up - power it from your power supply; or the smaller ribbon cable is not aligned correctly, it needs to be positioned all the way to the right if the screen is facing up.
- If you have a white screen - the larger ribbon cable is not in all the way/correctly
- If you broke of the retention clip for the ribbon cable use tape/hotglue/toothpick method
- If the colors are off (eg my screen had a bluish tint to it) check the soldered connections on the board, or check to see if the pins on the din connector are bent; check the color settings on the lilliput menu.
You can power the Lilliput monitor directly from the Opus's regulated +12V output without going through the car cigarette adapter. Run two wires (18 AWG) from the Lilliput to the Opus. At the monitor end of the wire, solder a barrel plug ("M" size... 5.5mm OD 2.1mm ID) that fits into the monitor's DC in jack. At the Opus end, solder the wires into a Y power splitter (+ve to yellow and -ve to black) - the one that has a female connector that plugs into the Opus 4-pin power connector for hard disks and splits into 4-pin hard disk power connectors. This way you can disconnect the wire if you need to bring the PC into the house.
The tricky part is getting the polarity right. Measure the voltage at the barrel plug BEFORE plugging it into the Lilliput. The center connector (tip) should be +ve and the outer connector should be -ve.
If you want to extend the video/touchscreen breakout cable (the one that gives you your VGA plug), use a "9 Pin Mini-Din
" cable. This may also be referred to as a 'bus mouse extension cable'. Don't confuse this with a normal PS/2 keyboard or mouse extension cable, they don't have enough pins and have a different shape inside.
Taking It Apart
- Remove the four screws on back
- There are four clips in the plastic housing. 2 on top, 2 on bottom, just apply pressure to the top and use something like a credit card (not a screw driver, it'll chew your casing up) to pry it apart. Take your time, and be patient, basically you don't want to rip the wiring apart when it pops open, once you get the top the bottom will come loose much easier.
- After you have the casing open you'll notice 4 small tabs holding the LCD, take a screw driver and loosen the screws, turn the tabs and the LCD will come loose.
- As far as the ribbon cables go, for those that haven't encountered connections like these, don't just pull them out. You'll notice on the connector a little collar this needs to be popped up, (only on the housing button panel) once you slide the collar up the cable will be very easy to pull out.
- The ribbon cable on the back of the LCD has a different connector, basically it has a little plastic piece that pivots up to release the ribbon cable use a small flat head screwdriver to gentle pry this up.
Important: Both kinds of ribbon cable connectors are delicate and easy to break so know how they release before trying anything. And NEVER try to force them.
- Now your LCD is basically free
- To get the circuit board out you'll see the four small screws like you removed from the back of the case
Remove those NOT the silver screws (those hold the USB control board on).
- After you get the circuit board free you'll notice that the 9 pin connector can't be remove from the case.
- Don't be scared, make a wiring diagram. This is quite possibly one of the easiest soldering jobs out there.
Note the wires, peel off the hot glue, desolder pull the cable out of the housing, re-solder and hot glue them back in place to hold them in place.
- Now both the LCD and circuit board are free.
NOTE: Don't go crazy when you power the Lilliput and nothing happens, just re-seat the ribbon cables, in specific the wide one is a bit tricky to get reseated properly.Lilliput 8" 9-pin Cable Wiring Diagram
Lilliput 619 (7") Screen Wiring Diagram
Cutting out the 9 pin din connector on a 619
Replacing the IR Sensor
- Connect Orange to Blue, and Blue to Orange
- Connect Brown to Purple, and Purple to Brown
- Green and ground are correct
- All touch wires are also correct
If you break off your sensor, you can replace it with Radio Shack Part # 2760640 38MHZ IR Receiver Module. cost was $3.69
Article written by hevnsnt, bambooracer, Chairboy, studmonk3y, blackpacu, Anointed, gospeed.racer, NoTicketsPlease.