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Thread: AMPCTRL via USB to serial adapter

  1. #1
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    AMPCTRL via USB to serial adapter

    Is this sort of configuration possible? it seems to be the simplest fix to my amp thump problem.

    My setup (not the whole thing, just the components related to this thread):
    Win7 with RR shell Installed on laptop (Sony VAIO PCG GRT-100)
    Carnetix P1900
    USB Sound Blaster X-Fi Surround Card (the one with the volume knob)
    Alpine 4ch amp
    and
    Kenwood 2ch amp


    My Problem
    Once ignition is on, Carnetix powers up computer then the DLYON powers amps

    (when resuming from sleep, the sound drivers are never turned off thus i have no thump problem. for the sake of this thread, im talking about a cold boot) the boot process ends, two thumps. then win7/RR shell loads, and two more loud thumps.

    im assuming the two "thump inducing" events are when: 1. power is applied to the USB sound card, and 2. when the sound drivers are loaded (after windows). I dont think i can use a simple time delay to turn on amps since im not always cold booting (sometimes will be booting right out of hybrid sleep)

    The reason for needing the configuration in the title, this laptop does not have a serial port, only a parellel port and obviously USB. Will this AMPCTRL program work via a USB to serial adapter? ive never used the program before but my solution needs to be software based as i explained earlier i cant use a simple time delay.

  2. #2
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    I remember showing this idea to someone a long time ago. The basic idea was to turn the amp(s) on when the LED on the USB audio device is on using an optocoupler or relay. Just another option.

  3. #3
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    that sounds like it could definately work, i already have a bosch type relay that is pretty much only in place to split the remote signal, im sure i could use that. what is an optocoupler? my knowledge and experience in electrics is limited, but would i just hook a wire from the LED to the trigger of the relay, with the relay connecting the remote and my amps?

  4. #4
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    You can't just connect the LED driver circuit directly to a relay because it's not likely to be able to drive that much current, and will die. An optocoupler or optoisloator is like an IR LED and phototransistor that works kind of like a little solid state relay. I use them a lot in the timers I sell. Oh for antithump too. plug! The top diagram uses a NPN transistor (2N3904 is fine) to sense the voltage going to the LED turning on and drive the relay. Hmm, a 1K resistor in series on the base would be better. The relay wouldn't need the remote wire. Just connect the Bosch coil + to 12V, coil- to the collector, one side of the relay contacts to 12V and the other to the amps.

  5. #5
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    okay, first off im going to say thanks alot for helpin me out.

    I have done a bit of research, and i do know now (basically) the function of an optocoupler and i am beginning to understand how to apply it to my thump problem, however i must admit i still am quite confused.

    The two diagrams you posted: are they two separate setups? or must both of these be set up in order for it to work? i notice the LEDs are labeled 1 & 2, does this mean two separate LEDs?

    My simple understanding: LED connects to optocoupler; which connects to the trigger of a relay; which is my switch connecting 12v remote and my amps.

    Is this correct? i know i did not mention a transistor or resistor, what are these for?



    Another thing i thought of;
    the boot process ends, two thumps. then win7/RR shell loads, and two more loud thumps.
    If the amps are powered along with the LED of the sound card, i assume i would be avoiding the first set of thumps in the boot process, but would i be avoiding the second (i assumed the second set of thumps were from software loading, not from hardware powering on) so if this is the case, my solution MUST be software related or else i would only be 'fixing' the "hardware related" (first set) thumps.

    Has anyone had experience with using ampctrl or other software to power their amps, without having an open serial port?
    again, i have USB and parellel ports.

  6. #6
    Constant Bitrate
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    You have 2 other options in my opinion :

    1.PAC TR-7 - I use it and it works well , Hardware solution ( Time delay )

    2.USB Relay - Pretty cool software solution..
    http://cgi.ebay.com/USB-One-Relay-Co...item1c10561250

    Both should work quite well and don't require a serial port

    EDIT :
    Scratch the TR7 solution , I just realized u can't do time-delay :\
    But the other solution is still valid..
    HeadUnit : Car-Pc | Processor : JBL MS-8 | Front Stage : Woofer - Mpyre 65M , Mid - Dayton RS100-4 , Tweeter - Tang-Band Ceramic 25-1719S | Subwoofer : Hertz HX250D | Amps : A/D/S PQ10 , Hifonics Olympus XI , SPL AB03445 | Wiring : Sommer , Neutrik

  7. #7
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    wow madboy, that USB relay looks to be exactly what i need.

    Do you, or anyone else know if this USB relay could be used in conjuction with the AMPCTRL software? Upon installation of the USB driver, this relay creates a virtual COM3 port.

    Also the three relay contacts on the USB component are labeled NC, C, and NO

    im guessing C would be Control (again its a guess)

    Are these standard acronyms used with relays? or does someone have a similar product for reference?

  8. #8
    Constant Bitrate
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    I don't know if this can be used with AMPCTRL but you can write a simple vb / c code to control it
    And I remember that I saw that someone compiled a simple command line app that u can use - If you wan't I can try to find it

    NC = Normally Closed
    NO = Normally Open
    C = Common

    Yes , It's standard relay acronyms

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relay


    EDIT :

    Ok , Here is a little app you can use to control the relay
    http://paragrama.net/blog/2009/06/20...hop-usb-relay/

    Enjoy
    HeadUnit : Car-Pc | Processor : JBL MS-8 | Front Stage : Woofer - Mpyre 65M , Mid - Dayton RS100-4 , Tweeter - Tang-Band Ceramic 25-1719S | Subwoofer : Hertz HX250D | Amps : A/D/S PQ10 , Hifonics Olympus XI , SPL AB03445 | Wiring : Sommer , Neutrik

  9. #9
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_Eatwell View Post
    okay, first off im going to say thanks alot for helpin me out.

    I have done a bit of research, and i do know now (basically) the function of an optocoupler and i am beginning to understand how to apply it to my thump problem, however i must admit i still am quite confused.

    The two diagrams you posted: are they two separate setups? or must both of these be set up in order for it to work? i notice the LEDs are labeled 1 & 2, does this mean two separate LEDs?

    My simple understanding: LED connects to optocoupler; which connects to the trigger of a relay; which is my switch connecting 12v remote and my amps.

    Is this correct? i know i did not mention a transistor or resistor, what are these for?



    Another thing i thought of;

    If the amps are powered along with the LED of the sound card, i assume i would be avoiding the first set of thumps in the boot process, but would i be avoiding the second (i assumed the second set of thumps were from software loading, not from hardware powering on) so if this is the case, my solution MUST be software related or else i would only be 'fixing' the "hardware related" (first set) thumps.

    Has anyone had experience with using ampctrl or other software to power their amps, without having an open serial port?
    again, i have USB and parellel ports.
    The schematic was 2 different ideas. One being a transistor and relay, and the other an optocoupler. Either one connected to the existing LED's anode. To test if this would have worked would be to watch the LED and if it's on when the amps thump, then it won't.

    Here's an example of a Bosch relay. 87a is N.C. 87 is N.O. and 30 is Common.

  10. #10
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    I am using one of these

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...cted+528T.html

    to delay the remote start on my diesel (for the glow plugs).

    This will adjust between 0-90 sec delay. For 20 bucks, it should be an easy solution unless someone can think of a reason why it would not work.
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

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