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Thread: FAQ: Getting Rid of that Whine or Buzzing Noise in Your Speakers

  1. #31
    Low Bitrate lor109's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    I honestly dont know. I am in the process of completing the install, and i sure hope not, because I have 3 EBY701s in my install. None of the screens will be powered by the PC, but rather a relay connected directly to the 12v+ and ground lines, with the ACC 12v+ being the activation switch. I decided on this because i did not want to bogg down my system in an way. Also i did it this way since all screens have there own regulators and fuses. Oh gosh you have me so worried now. Also as a note, my PC is no were near the screens.
    Mine is Connected directly to the ACC 12v line as well, not the pc. I won't be able to take it apart anytime soon to test for problems, but I'll let you know if I find anything.

  2. #32
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    I read through this thread and thought I'd offer one more source of potential noise. That source would be a partially failing alternator. Not sure how many people know that a diode on a modern alternator can fail and no light on the dash will show this - you are still partially charging. Only way to detect it* is through looking at the output on an O-scope or similar. What you would see is a partially rectified output with a much less 'smooth' line to the DC being sent to the battery and any other load devices. Among other ramification, this can create issues through fluctuating voltage for things like a display plugged into the cigarette lighter.

    * Note: Well I guess if you were previously barely able to run something with a healthy alternator, and a diode failed you might notice, but in that scenario you're already probably replacing alternators on a regular basis due to load induced issues.

  3. #33
    Low Bitrate lor109's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lbridges View Post
    I read through this thread and thought I'd offer one more source of potential noise. That source would be a partially failing alternator. Not sure how many people know that a diode on a modern alternator can fail and no light on the dash will show this - you are still partially charging. Only way to detect it* is through looking at the output on an O-scope or similar. What you would see is a partially rectified output with a much less 'smooth' line to the DC being sent to the battery and any other load devices. Among other ramification, this can create issues through fluctuating voltage for things like a display plugged into the cigarette lighter.

    * Note: Well I guess if you were previously barely able to run something with a healthy alternator, and a diode failed you might notice, but in that scenario you're already probably replacing alternators on a regular basis due to load induced issues.
    This got me thinking. I did replace the Battery recently....Could the new battery cause these issues?

  4. #34
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lor109 View Post
    Mine is Connected directly to the ACC 12v line as well, not the pc. I won't be able to take it apart anytime soon to test for problems, but I'll let you know if I find anything.
    Mine isnt connected directly to the ACC 12V+, thats badddddddddddd because it isnt made to power a device, you may have a short in the future. My devices are powered by the constant 12v+ the relay sits in between the device and the constant line. The ACC simply completes the connection on the relay.
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  5. #35
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    Angry The Deadly Noise...

    Ok, I have hooked up a few systems, and now my very own. I did what most people do, use cheap parts and expect it to be the best on the block. But in my case, it is! But now, after hooking up my Compt. Pioneer speakers, there is the noise... The whine that makes every man scream! Sounds good standing still! lol but what good is a Good system standing still when you use it for everyday driving?

    Now, on to my set up. The amp is a no name, Jessen? It was hooked up to my 2 12" Duals, it sounded great, hit hard and all! But then I wanted to go louder, and so I split my amp to now go to the Compt speakers, and now the sound is here. I ran my cords like a good Instalation boy, Got my power cord running with the rest of my electrical cords running on the left side and my cords from the head unit on the right.
    My Ground is to my frame, found a nice little unpainted bolt. My amp wires, even wrapped in 3 layers of Foil, and then with electrical tape to make sure of no interference. I just had my alt replaced, due to the fact that it is way passed 100000 miles. YAY! But still, I cant find the source, the only thing I can think of is if the amp maybe on the side of going out? Or maybe since its only 400 watts, and I have it maxng out? the speakers are set up for 4ohm and so are the set of Duals, and Im pretty sure the amp is too, but I cant really find ANYTHING on that amp lol. Any idea's are very much thanked!

    Hopefully its pretty simple, or cheap! I do plan by next year to Move up to, two 15" 1000watts each and then upgrade the amp, and get some front speakers. But before I do that, I need to fix this!

    Thanks!

  6. #36
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    Buzzing noise in speakers

    Sorry to bug I have this buzzing noise. I have two options:
    RCA amplifier
    http://www.amazon.com/Peripheral-PLD...ref=de_a_smtd# Adjustable gain levels Low 20 milliampere consumption Configurable output ground isolation

    or a ground loop isolator
    http://www.amazon.com/Xitel-GLI1-S1-.../ref=de_a_smtd

    Note I am using a home stereo not a car.

    Thanks
    Misha

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